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10-22-2008, 04:28 PM
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#1
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Established Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Baxter
Posts: 15
M.O.C. #8407
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winterizing water system
I have a 2007 montana 3075. Because of health reasons ,antifreeze in the water lines is not an option.I have drained the water heater, water tank, and water lines opening all faucets. Next, using compressor with 30# of pressure, blew the lines out. Then I ran the water pump for a few minutes . Is there any other method to assure that the water pump has been emptied ?
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10-22-2008, 04:35 PM
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#2
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Grand Junction
Posts: 89
M.O.C. #7686
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Don,
We have the same unit except a 2008 and that is exactly what we do. If you have the two low point drains in the water lines did you remember to open them? Also did you get the outside faucet blown out? We nearly forgot the outside faucet last year. Ours has the plumbing for the washer and that took a bit of extra effort.
Dean
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10-22-2008, 05:00 PM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Frostproof
Posts: 512
M.O.C. #7125
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Blowing the water lines out with air does not always get all the water out. Two places that can retain water, the water pump, and the valve in the toilet. Some people don't have any problems, but no guaranties. RV anti freeze is the only promise. It can be flushed out, lines can be sanitized with bleach (about 1/4 cup to 20gal), and the refreshed with baking soda (dissolve 1/2 cup in hot water and another 20gal). Let each treatment set in the lines for a few hours and flush with water. If you keep some heat in the unit during storage, you might get buy with the air, plus it will help keep the moisture down in the camper. I use an oil heater. Hopes this helps. Kerry
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10-22-2008, 05:45 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Merlin
Posts: 668
M.O.C. #7368
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Don, I know you said you can't use antifreeze in the water lines, but I would use antifreeze in the sink traps and in the toilet after you blow out the lines. I'd suggest at least 1/3 gallon down each drain, this will also put some in the tanks, as the drain traps only hold about a cup or so.
Bob
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10-22-2008, 06:30 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 5,615
M.O.C. #6109
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Kerry,
I completely forgot about the baking soda. I used to use it after the bleach, but somewhere over the years I forgot. Thanks!
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10-23-2008, 03:35 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cooper
Posts: 1,230
M.O.C. #3029
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When I lived in Southeast Texas there was not a major threat for severe freezing weather and I always blew out the lines as you described. Feeling comfortable with what I had always done in the past I blew the lines again this year. Something did not feel right so I made the decision to fill them with the pink stuff. I was amazed at the amount of water that had stayed in the lines and was flushed before the pink arrived. My suggestion is winterize with antifreeze if at all possible.
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10-23-2008, 04:06 AM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Manhattan
Posts: 1,144
M.O.C. #1846
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Also, realize that RV antifreeze is a special blend -- non-toxic. If health (in my case some food allergies) prevent you from using the water for cooking/drinking, many of us use bottled water (or we bottle house water ourselves) for these uses. As said above, the best way is using the RV antifreeze.
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10-23-2008, 06:48 AM
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#8
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Grand Junction
Posts: 246
M.O.C. #4854
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Old Swede,
I'm with Charlie on this one. It's diffecult to remove all the water with air. I blow mine out first and then add the anti-freeze. The bleach and baking soda is a good ide, I'll try that one this winter, when we pull out.
Old Dane
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10-23-2008, 09:18 AM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: St Johns
Posts: 434
M.O.C. #7691
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Always learn something here :-).
I forgot my unit is pre-plumbed for washer. I remembered everything else, even to release the pressure and then open up the non-return valve on the city water connection to drain the small amount of water there so it fills with anti-freeze. Be gentle or you may unseat the o-ring and then the valve will leak when you are running off your internal pump.
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10-23-2008, 09:44 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Tonawanda
Posts: 551
M.O.C. #3662
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After I blow all the lines and pour anti freeze in all the traps,toilet,and the grey tanks.I take the low point caps off and leave them off so if any water collects due to compensation or just plain gravity it should go out the low point and drain out.I also leave all faucets and any other water valve open to allow the drain to process.
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10-23-2008, 09:53 AM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 5,615
M.O.C. #6109
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Just a note - with this new convenience center or docking station or whatever it's called, there are a few lines that don't get antifreeze as I believe Mudchief pointed out to me a couple of years ago.
On this 2007, I end up using both compressed air and antifreeze. I always start by draining the HW tank and freshwater tank, then connect a 30psi air to the city connect with a valved adapter. - With the bypass off and anode rod out, I open the air valve and the first shot of air cleans out the HW bypass line.
- Incidently - by performing the step above, I just blew out the city connect to to the pump check valve, so I will not have to risk messing with that little pin to drain it.
- Then, I turn the bypass valve on and open the tank fill valve. The next shot of air through the adapter blows out the tank fill line without contaminating the freshwater tank with antifreeze (a real buggar to flush out).
- I then remove the air adapter fom the city connect and re-connect it to the black tank flush and give it a shot to blow out the flush line (theoretically it shouldn't hold water with the air-gap backflow preventor at the top, but I'm anal retentive)
- All done with the air and ready for the antifreeze cocktail through the antifreeze connection
In the end, the rig is antifreezed, the P-traps are antifreezed, and the initial air blew out the HW tank fill line downstream of the bypass, the tank fill line was blown down, and the city connect line was blown down without any introduction of antifreeze into the HW tank, fresh tank, or even the city connect.
I realize this doesn't help with the Mountaineer or pre-convenience center Montanas, but I think you are better off. My 2003 was just as simple as few gallons of antifreeze and a few minutes of my time. This one take a little more time and concentration.
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10-23-2008, 10:43 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Frostproof
Posts: 512
M.O.C. #7125
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Also see this topic Winterizing the Montana with pictures posted 10/21
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10-23-2008, 10:57 AM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Frostproof
Posts: 512
M.O.C. #7125
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One more thing. If you have the built-in water filter, make sure you remove the filter before you put in the anti-freeze. It will plug up the filter, and you won't see any pink stuff coming out the faucets.
Kerry
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