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Old 12-02-2019, 10:48 AM   #1
rjlamb
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Hot Water Bypass

I use the compressed air method of winterising my HC 305RK unit. I am leary that just flipping the hot water bypass lever in the convenience center and draining the HW tank may leave water in the lines over the winter. I am used to the manual bypass valves on the tank rear. Should I worry?
 
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Old 12-02-2019, 01:05 PM   #2
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It is still possible to have water in low lying areas if you live in very cold climates? Plus you still have water in your traps under the sinks, or trapped in lines that go to refrig, or washer dryer lines or in pump maybe? For as little as antifreeze costs, it maybe a thought!
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Old 12-02-2019, 01:06 PM   #3
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You should have no issues what so ever , as long as you have drained your water heater and left the anode rod/plug out of it. When you bypass the heater, then blow air thru lines, it gets any remaining water out of them.

Basically no different than running antifreeze thru the system, it will only get to where the valves allow it to go. Also don't forget to add antifreeze to all your drain lines and toilet valve as they are most likely to freeze if left untreated. Washing machine lines if so equipped.
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:07 PM   #4
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You should have no issues what so ever , as long as you have drained your water heater and left the anode rod/plug out of it. When you bypass the heater, then blow air thru lines, it gets any remaining water out of them.

...
So, I just winterized ours yesterday with the blow out method. It's the only method that I used on our last camper, and never had any issues.

However, on our last one, we didn't have an anode rod when we got it. First owners had just installed a plug, and it was rusted in there. I ultimately was able to get it out, but I never did put an anode rod back in, I instead, installed a brass shutoff valve, so I never had to take that plug out again.

So, with our new Monty, I took out the anode rod, drained the tank, and then put the anode rod back in. I was worried about bugs getting into the water heater. Not worried about them living in there, but more worried about them decaying in the water and making it smell.

Is that something that people have issues with? We have a LOT of bugs that find their way into small places...
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:08 PM   #5
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For the record, when I had mine in hot water heater bypass mode, there was still air coming out of the hot water heater drain hole. I don't know if it is working correctly or not, but not a big deal, because at this point, I don't ever plan on pushing anti-freeze thru the lines...
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:40 PM   #6
rjlamb
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Thanks for the replies:

One more thing that I learned was that there is not a P-
trap under the shower stall so there is no need to pour antifreeze to protect the trap. The drain pipe has a collapsed vinyl diaphram that keeps sewer smells from backing up into the bathroom.
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:47 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies:

One more thing that I learned was that there is not a P-
trap under the shower stall so there is no need to pour antifreeze to protect the trap. The drain pipe has a collapsed vinyl diaphram that keeps sewer smells from backing up into the bathroom.

Exactly...thats why its never good to use a "snake" down the shower drain if it becomes plugged somehow.
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Old 12-02-2019, 02:49 PM   #8
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Cad
I actually rinse my tank out after removing the anode rod and then again in the spring time before re-installing it back into the heater. By doing that it removes any leftover residue from using the tank, and removes anything that might have entered it in the winter months.
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Old 12-08-2019, 01:59 PM   #9
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I blew out the system with compressed air and switched the water heater bypass for a minute while blowing out the system just to put some air thru that line. I also pumped in antifreeze for good measure, it can fall well below zero here in eastern Washington.
I also left the water drain open and the anode rod removed.
I think the pex style tubing is pretty forgiving as far as expansion.
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