Dodge Brake Contoller

[vangoes]

My 2013 Dodge has provided inadequate braking ability since I bought the truck new. I am considering unhooking the factory controller and install an aftermarket Prodigy. Was wondering if anyone has replaced their 2013 or newer factory controller; and if so, have you seen remarkable improvement. The controller electronics was redesigned in 2013 and my service department managers have told me that I'm not the only one not satisfied with the performance.

[DQDick]

Some folks have had their computers flashed with a new braking program that helped a lot, not sure what years, however.

[Eagleback]

I have the 2013 ram brake controller and its a PROPORTIONAL brake controller. It will lock the brakes on the monty but not lock them on my 30' cargo trailer. I have tried setting it to 10 and changed it to heavy electric and even electric over hydraulic and no go. I adjusted the drums and only got a little better. Still under warranty I took my truck to the dealer and they flashed the controller and got a little better performance but I still was not satisfied so I called Dexter and they said that not all trailer brakes are capable of locking up even with a proper adjustment and a good controller so I hooked my cargo trailer up to my friends truck with a prodigy and drove it around and his would not lock the brakes ether. so I will just have to give myself a little more room to stop I guess.

[jfaberna]

I have the Ram 2014 3500 Dually and I use the builtin brake controller. I have it set to heavy electric and a gain of 7. I feel the Monty brake a fraction of a second before the truck, which is how I like it. With the exhaust brake and tow haul set, I have no issues with the way my 2014 3402 pulls and brakes.

[vangoes]

Has anyone checked the voltage at the trailer jbox when hooked to the truck, gain on 10 and heavy electric setting and using the slider actuator? My voltage at that point is only 7.5 volts. I cannot get an answer from anyone about what it should be (being its Proportional). Chrysler/Dodge responded "check with your service dept.". My service deptartment says they don't know if thats normal or not. Their analyser says there are no problems. All I know is that will not stop me even at a 20 mph rolling stop much less anything faster.

[Eagleback]

IMHO, If you could hook to the outputs then drive and check the voltage when you brake and if you do not get any higher then your module could be bad. and you could contact the maker of the module but I did find this.

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WARNING!! New 2013 Ram Truck - Brake Controller, Aftermarket


From Cequent Performance Products

TECHNICAL BULLETIN: TB13-01

Issue Date: 02/01/13

Installing Electric Brake Controls – 2013 Ram Trucks

Vehicles - 2013 Ram Truck - All

Product Family - Brake Controls -All

The electrical system on the 2013 Ram trucks has changed. Though the brake control connector is the same as the 2010-2012, the wire functions have changed. The terminal that used to be the stop light signal, now has battery voltage, whenever the ignition is in the run position. According to Dodge, it is not possible to install an aftermarket electric trailer brake control into these trucks. Dodge says, that “the 2013 Ram has “Powernet” and utilizes multiplex wiring that is different from any previous design’s, therefore, your aftermarket trailer brake control is not compatible”

At this time, the only aftermarket brake control that can be used on a 2013 Ram truck, is the Tekonsha 90250 Prodigy RF. As soon as more information is available, a revision to this technical bulletin will sent out.

WARNING!!! - Any attempt to install an aftermarket brake control into the vehicle, may cause severe damage to the vehicle’s electrical system or electrical component!

Hope this might help a little.

[vangoes]

Thanks Eagleback. I had seen this bulletin but it was published in 2/13. There were so many redesigns on the 2013 Ram that there was not much aftermarket stuff that was compatible with the redesign; heck, you couldn't even get 5th wheel bed rails until August of that year. It took a while for the aftermarket to catch up in many areas. It seems that they now have so I'm looking to see if there is some practical experience out there. Obviously, the local service departments are of no help. I have a email question with Dodge now but have not received any response other than the standard Robo response acknowledging receipt.
Anyway, thanks for your help.

[Eagleback]

What I can do is meter my controller the same as you and tell you what the voltage is if you would like?

[vangoes]

Thanks Eagleback, that would be great. I really would appreciate it. At least we would know if that's normal or not.

[Eagleback]

quote:Originally posted by vangoes

Thanks Eagleback, that would be great. I really would appreciate it. At least we would know if that's normal or not.

Ok. Will I set the controller to 10 then heavy electric?. Which pin in the socket is fro the brake?

[vangoes]

Eagleback, I sent you an email.

[Titan Guy]

I have a 2014 Ram 3500. When I bought the truck it would not work with my disc brake system. The 2011 I traded worked fine. I checked voltage at the plug and only got 8.7v. There were no IBC updates but there were some ECM updates they did and the brakes worked.

As the actuator will only build pressure above 10v, there is something with the blue wire(controller) that only allows lower voltage when stopped. When moving there has to be at least 10v running to get the pump to work. I could get 12v on the other terminals on the plug.

[Eagleback]

Vangoes, I get the same voltage as titan guy. I think its the proportional part of the controller it will lock the Monty at 5 and not lock the brakes on my cargo trailer at 10 both at heavy electric and pulling the cargo trailer I get full voltage to the brakes at hard highway speed braking then goes to 8.6 volts at stop but will not lock the brakes on the cargo trailer, this is after the update from the ram dealer which made it better than it was. sorry this is not what you are looking for but its what I got.

[vangoes]

Thanks guys for your input on the voltage. It looks as if at rest, the 8.5v is the norm. I may have to run some temporary wire from the jbox to the truck cab for a volt meter to check the proportional aspects of the controller. I did talk with Dexter and they said the breaks need a minimum of 10v to work adequately, so if my controller does not ramp up the voltage proportionately would explain my poor breaking.

[arcticfox]

I also had braking problems with my '13 RAM. We changed the wiring on the trailer from 12 gauge to 10, big improvement. Controller set at 7.5.