RV Pad - Montana Owners Club

K&Gs3400RL · 10-16-2010, 06:29 AM

Ok, we're renting a 1/4 acre and started a new adventure ,almost fulltiming, I say allmost because were still working. Any way, I need to put in an RV pad because as it stands now we have almost 8" of blocks on the left side and could take out the 2" on the right side to make the 5er really level. Putting in a cement pad isn't an option. So my question is, what is the best way to go about this? I read gravel should not be used because it will hold water and cause moisture on the bottom of the 5th wheel, so what do I do? I added a picture of a wall I want to build to get an idea of how deep I need to make it and I was thinking of using Larger gravel to fill in and then smaller gravel to finish the top. Any suggestions? Thanks

George and Karin

H. John Kohl · 10-16-2010, 07:22 AM

I had a similar issue with our previous house. I used landscaping timbers and put in a pad.
My one caution base on your photo is to make sure you have enough distance between your wall and the tire so the tire weight/pressure does not push the wall out causing a rupture. You might check with a landscaping expert to verify the block you want to use will hold the weight/pressure of the rock as well as your trailer.

I feel gravel is better than grass so remember to put down the no grass membrane.

Do you have to remove this pad when you leave?

I used CR6 gravel. My belief is if you use two sizes the small will keep sifting down between the larger rocks.

K&Gs3400RL · 10-16-2010, 08:09 AM

Thanks for the quick input, No we wont need to take it out when we move on. And after the wall is built I plan on moving the trailer about 4 feet over to the right, so the wheels will be at least 4 feet or more from the edge of the wall. And yes I thought about the smaller rock shifting into the bigger rock. Do you think a dbl layer of landscape fabric will be sufficient to keep that from happening? or should I use something else?

Champ_49 · 10-16-2010, 09:35 AM

I used crushed concrete for a brand new driveway. I put the crushed concrete down and actually used my class A motorhome (what I had at the time) and drove on it to help level and settle it in. After a year it was as good as concrete. Never a hole or dip one in it. Only thing I was going to do was put in some limestone to cover it so it looked better.

Dave

NCFischers · 10-16-2010, 10:08 AM

If you have access to decomposed granite, put it down and tamp it with a machine and you'll have a nice hard pad.

8e3k0 · 10-16-2010, 04:14 PM

Gravel works well as long as water can drain away fronm the RV pad area. Because of the extensive porosity with gravel the area will remain dry and dry out quicker than grassed areas, other soils (dirt).
Yet concrete is the best solution and more permanent to maintain a level pad over a long period of years.

clutch · 10-16-2010, 04:20 PM

Crushed rock like 3/4 in will work fine. If you are 4 ft away from your concrete blocks they will stay put. If you are worried about moisture then lay down some plastic after you get set up. A small amount or gravel will keep it in place. We used a system like that since 1995. We just upgraded it with a concrete pad last summer.

K&Gs3400RL · 10-16-2010, 04:59 PM

Thanks everyone, your suggestions are much appreciated.

Tom S. · 11-11-2010, 06:07 AM

I hear you about the cement pad, but what about two small cement pads just large enough for the wheels/tires? Maybe something 4 foot long, 1 foot wide on each side? Something that small would require less than a yard of cement, and you might work out a deal with a local cement hauler to give you a deal using left over cement from another job. Making the forms would be easy with some 2x4's and the only thing you'd really have to concerned about is that they were level with each other.

Illini Trekker · 11-11-2010, 09:28 AM

On a new driveway a layed down a fabric and then put gravel on top of the fabric. The fabric helps suport the gravel but lets water get away, plus you will save on future grave cost.

Look at this link maybe you can find something like this close to home at a gravel dealer?
http://www.nilex.com/products/geotex...en_geotextiles

richfaa · 11-11-2010, 10:13 AM

We had our concrete pad poured along side the house. I just told the contractor to make it level. They did not use chicken wire but real rebar and poured it 5 inches thick, It is 12 feet wide and 44 feet long then connected into the exsisting driveway.

clutch · 11-11-2010, 10:42 AM

The trouble with pouring just two small pads for the wheels and useing only about a yard of concrete is that you will still have to pay for the truck and driver. If you are not close to the cement plant the truck can cost more than the material.

I am with Rich on the 5in thick and real rebar. that is what we did on the pad on our river lot. The chopped up fiberglass is just another bonus.

pbahlin · 11-11-2010, 11:17 AM

I had a really big driveway once with a turnout for turning around to get to the street in drive instead of reverse. It was prohibitive to pave it. Our contractor 'paved' it with something he called 'knit pack'. It was basically waste product from a stone crusher so it had sharp edged stone ranging in size from grape to sand. This stuff is cheap and it packs like concrete after a year of seasoning in the weather. Mine drained really well and held itself quite smooth and flat in spite of having sections that were really steep (maybe 15 degree slope).

The turnout was built up at least a foot and never got pushed out even when wheels were within a foot of the edge with no wall.

jpkelpe · 11-12-2010, 02:02 PM

Our son used recycled concrete for his driveway and floor in the shed he built. good base and cheaper than poured concrete

Tom S. · 11-13-2010, 09:59 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by clutch

The trouble with pouring just two small pads for the wheels and useing only about a yard of concrete is that you will still have to pay for the truck and driver. If you are not close to the cement plant the truck can cost more than the material.

I am with Rich on the 5in thick and real rebar. that is what we did on the pad on our river lot. The chopped up fiberglass is just another bonus.

You are of course correct - but if you talk to the cement company and aren't in a hurry, you might be able to tag on to someone else's delivery. How this works: they have a six yard delivery near you and a ten yard truck. They dump the six yards first then come back and hit yours.

clutch · 11-13-2010, 02:31 PM

Tom, that could possibly work. In our area they would do that and then charge each full bore for the truck. It is worth checking out tho.

K&Gs3400RL · 10-24-2011, 05:04 PM

Update: Had this put in when we had the 295rkd Now we have the 3400rl and its a tad short. But hey it beats the Blocks. And I can expand it in the spring.

HOOK · 10-24-2011, 05:40 PM

Built mine from a base of sand clay 8 feet wider than Monty. Made edges about 2 ins. lower than center to form crown for drainage. Used power tamp to firm up clay. Covered with 3 ins. of pea gravel. Tamped again. Sodded around 3 ft rise from lower level with Centepede sod. Very satisfied, very firm, drains well, very inexpensive. Larry

snfexpress · 10-24-2011, 06:52 PM

Or, you could get the Level Up and spend the money on you instead of the site...

**DQDick** · 10-24-2011, 07:38 PM

Our current parking area is gravel boarded by railroad ties. The new site is just going to be gravel. We have two grades of limestone out here. First we put down a soft layer, drive on it some and then come back with a hard layer. Our employee parking at work took one application and 20 years later it's still good. Our concrete drives and customer parking takes $40,000 worth of work about every 5 years.

You may also like: