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06-18-2014, 08:16 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Andover
Posts: 243
M.O.C. #7542
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Problem hitching/unhitching
I have been having a terrible time lately hitching/unhitching the Monty, mostly unhitching. I have a 2005 3295rk with the standard extended pin box (Lippert 1621) and a Reese 16k 5th wheel hitch. I transferred the hitch from the old truck to the new truck (2013 Ram crew cab 8' bed). Since the change over I have been having the release handle not want to automatically lock upon hitching having to almost force it back in to lock jaws and very difficult to pull release handle to unlock jaws without "rocking" truck back and forth. I have just noticed a small "rub" mark on the bottom leading edge of the king pin with a corresponding mark on a piece of reinforcement casting inside the head of the hitch. Nothing seems to be out of alignment with no other rub or wear marks inside the hitch head. The operation of the of the hitch without the trailer is smooth. Could there be a misadjustment in the hitch or pin box because of the new truck. There is 7" between the bed rails of the truck and the overhang of the trailer. It's almost like the king pin is now sitting deeper into the hitch or farther forward. I did have a worn/broken lube disc on the pin, but I don't think that would make a difference. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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06-18-2014, 10:18 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 4,200
M.O.C. #11401
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Sounds like there could be a place that needs lube.
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06-18-2014, 12:43 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Wilsey
Posts: 18,799
M.O.C. #11455
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That's what I was thinking. There are several places I lube on my 20K Reese hitch. One even has a zert.
__________________
Dick, Joyce, Diego, Picatso and Gustav
2017 3720 RL, and 2013 HC 343RL
Pullrite Hitch, IS, Disk Brakes, 3rd AC, Winegard Traveler, Bathroom door mod, Dometic 320, couch for desk swap, replaced chairs, sun screens, added awnings, etc.
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06-18-2014, 01:19 PM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Hixson
Posts: 3,436
M.O.C. #11397
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Replacing my Reese 16k that I bought new with a B & W made me a very happy camper.
__________________
2018.5 Montana 3791RD
Full Timers 9/1/2010 through 1/16/2020.
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06-18-2014, 01:26 PM
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#5
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Andover
Posts: 243
M.O.C. #7542
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If I could figure out how to post a photo then I could show where it is rubbing. It's in an odd place. I've tried lubricating with penetrant/lubricant on the pivot points and wheel bearing grease where it is rubbing, basically it had no effect.
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06-18-2014, 01:28 PM
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#6
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Andover
Posts: 243
M.O.C. #7542
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WeBeFulltime, had no problem with hitch till I changed trucks.
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06-18-2014, 02:01 PM
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#7
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Montana Master
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fayetteville
Posts: 4,200
M.O.C. #11401
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When the new truck is hitched, does the trailer appear to be level, nose low or nose high? If it sat level before and sits level now, what's changed ? Maybe someone will be along soon with the answer.
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06-18-2014, 02:06 PM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Eugene
Posts: 1,050
M.O.C. #5091
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My Reece at times won't release the pin unless it is positioned just right.Sometimes backing up or forward will release, other times I have to raise the trailer and jerk really hard to get it to release. Other times it takes ONE finger to pull pin. My Reese was bought in 2002 and not aware of any zert fittings that need to be lubed.
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06-18-2014, 02:58 PM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Salem
Posts: 7,528
M.O.C. #2283
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I heave a B&W. If it is in a bind with the truck and camper at different angles it will NOT open.
Lynwood
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06-18-2014, 03:27 PM
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#10
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Seasoned Camper
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Apache Junction AZ
Posts: 54
M.O.C. #14022
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Sparry all pivot points with WD-40 work on my
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06-18-2014, 03:38 PM
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#11
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: merced
Posts: 983
M.O.C. #6171
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You didn't state what kind of hitch. If it has a slide bar, it is probably mushroomed where it contacts the pin. My last hitch had to be filed downed once a year. It would not slide through the slot.
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06-18-2014, 04:18 PM
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#12
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Blackduck
Posts: 315
M.O.C. #12753
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I have a Reese R16 hitch. It has two grease zirks. If you take the head off the pedistal and flip it over there are two grease fittings. One on each jaw pivot pin. Also the piviot points for the head should get fresh grease rubbed on them fairly often. Don't know if any of this is relevant for other hitches.
To the OP, was the hitch taken apart when it was moved from one TV to the next? Sounds to me like something got bent or maybe a foreign object. Maybe a spring missing? Closer inspection may be required.
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06-18-2014, 05:55 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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Check closely for "high hitching" or "low hitching". The pinbox should slightly ride into the hitch. Ensure kingpin is centered and you are backing into it straight. Backwards pressure will take the load off the hitch jaws when you get ready to pull the hitch jaws release lever. Be sure to chock your RV tires prior to any hitching/unhitching actions. No need to stress the landing legs!
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2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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06-18-2014, 06:10 PM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Hillsboro
Posts: 593
M.O.C. #8238
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Gjetzen, I think we have the same (or similar) Reese hitch as you. 16K, about a 2003 model or so. Does not have the side to side swivel as some of the newer ones do. What I've found is that if there is any sideways binding, such as the trailer being tipped in comparison to the truck, or if there is any pressure on the jaws by the pin, then it will be virtually impossible to pull the release. If it's side to side, you'll have to level the trailer to the truck or visa/versa. It can be a bit off, but not a lot. For the jaws pressure, just back up or go forward a bit to relieve the pressure and it should open right up. I find quite often that I have to "release pressure" on the pin/jaws to get the lever pulled. It doesn't take much though.
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Terry and Patsy
Vietnam Veteran, US Navy
2017 3810
2015 GMC Sierra 4X4 3500 SRW
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06-20-2014, 10:37 AM
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#15
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Montana Master
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Frostproof, FL USA
Posts: 2,362
M.O.C. #13272
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TAKPAK is probably correct. Mine is a 2013 16K Reese that does swivel side-to-side but still binds up sometimes. The first thing I do when I am in place is set the first set of chocks. Later, when I am ready to release sometimes I have to just put the truck in reverse to let it move maybe an inch before mine will unhitch. That is the only thing I don't like about the Reese. It seems like if there is any "pull pressure" it won't release and has to be just right. We have hooked/unhooked probably 20 times recently and I'll bet it wouldn't release the first pull on 7 of those occasions.
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Previous: 2008 Montana 3400RL & 2014 3725RL
Current: Full Time 2022 SOB TT Toy Hauler
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06-20-2014, 02:57 PM
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#16
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Andover
Posts: 243
M.O.C. #7542
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Well I got the hitching/unhitching problem solved today. In my original post I stated that there was a spot on the hitch pin that had a rub mark on it and a corresponding mark on the hitch side. The place were the pin was rubbing the hitch is actually a stop for the hitch pin. It is a brace and what it does is to limit the forward travel of the hitch pin. I did as woodtic suggested and removed the hitch head from the legs (and by the way there are no zerk fittings on my hitch head) and took the head to the local Keystone dealer to compare against a new head. After comparison the problem was evident, the brace was bent down. The expert opinion of the dealer tech was that chucking caused it to bend. My "unexpert" opinion was that it was caused by over-zealous hitching (perhaps several times). Jeez I wonder who could have done that?!
The brace was bent down causing the hitch pin to ride over it instead of butting against it. This in turn caused just enough upward pressure on the locking jaws making it difficult to open or close the jaws.
When I got back home I took my trusty BDH to it and with about 6 blows I was able to straighten it back to it's original position. I also took out all of the clevis pins in the pivot linkage and ran a piece of crocus cloth over them and applied wheel bearing grease to all of the pivot and friction points. While I have lubricated the pivot points before, I can't remember the hitch ever moving this good. Hitched up the Monty drove it around the block parked it and unhitched. All seems well (right now).
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06-20-2014, 04:41 PM
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#17
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Blackduck
Posts: 315
M.O.C. #12753
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Glad you got it HAMMERED back into shape. A true mechanic. LOL.
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