Mud Flaps v. Hitch Mounted Deflector?

[Carl n Susan]

The full body paint on the new Montana Big Sky models is really pretty but doesn't react well to rocks and debris. I really need to add some protection devices to the TV. The question is: what type of deflector/flap is best?

Mud Flaps - Typically these are ~ 12" in width and permanently mounted. It appears they can't be too low to the ground (for maximum protection) as then they get pinched against concrete bumpers by the tires when parking (back-in spots of course).

Hitch Mounted Deflectors - The models I have read about utilize the 2" receiver and and a tow hitch to support the device. Easy to remove when not towing. With two arms the width of the TV and adjustable for road clearance, these seem to offer maximum protection. Two types of blocking material are used. The Rubber Flaps type are typically 24" x 24", while the other type is a "Brush Strip". It appears these block access to the trailer connections (not a problem for me as I use an in-bed connector) and the back-up sensors (more of an issue for me). But I don't know.

I really want to maximize my protection from road crap chipping the RV's paint. So what are your experiences and/or opinions with deflectors/flaps?

[Art-n-Marge]

I just went through this!

The receiver mounted solutions are very expensive and in my case these flaps would have required me to relocate the bumper connector or move it because these big flaps might cover it. I didn't check the clearance since their cost was too high for me. Do a search for "mud tamer" to find suitable solutions about $150 to $250, with or without shipping. I believe the solid style mud flap or bumper guard are more durable because I've seen to many brush type guards that have "splayed" over time. The hitch mounted flaps usually sit right below the bumper and should not impact any sensors.

Most aftermarket flaps are too short and leave too much gap to allow debris to get kicked back. These mud flaps are designed to prevent damage to the vehicle itself to ensure the debris gets past the vehicle.

This brings the problem of a towable. The mudflap at the fender should have no more than a 4 to 6 inch gap from the ground to the bottom of the flap to ensure that no debris gets kicked back into the towable. While the bumper mounted mud flap solves this I'll defer to its price.

My recent solution was to order a set from www.duraflap.com. Their longest flaps for my year and model of truck were $90. Your year and model may vary. Since this set left an 8" to 9" gap, I added a $30 customization charge to extend them down about 4" to achieve the gap I desired. The flaps I am expecting will be $130 (includes extra length and shipping). These only add about 8 lbs of weight but provide the protection for my truck and towable. I also liked that because of their weight and construction, they do not require any drilling to use their hardware mounts and these were considerable light weight.

Others have done a great job making their own by creating heavy duty mounting brackets and cutting big truck flaps down to size to affix. I didn't go this route because I cannot weld and don't have the patience to measure and drill.

So the choices are fender mounted mud flaps (lighter weight, lower cost, permanently affixed, uglier?), or receiver mounted flaps (possibly heavier weight, higher cost, removable, looks cool)?

I'm wallet lean so the duraflaps were my choice. I think they look fine (I premounted a smaller set and they are tolerable) and I'm more a fit and function guy first, looking good is second.

While I just went through this and made my decision on about two months of looking, I'd be real interested to hear what other members have to say. There are both types in the forum already and should have years of experience to provide.

[DarMar]

Last year and prior we used the hitch mounted brush strip kind that you described and it worked well untill.....well we mounted it on our new duramax and my best guess is that during the regeneration mode a big chunk of it near the exhaust completely melted away!!! I am sure your 2011 PSD will cause a similar problem.

Haven't decided a direction from here and I wonder what others might have experienced!!!

[fishinman]

I have the horse hair mount and when used on a trip to and from Alaska I think I would have perfers a solid flap as I still got tar, etc on my 5er.

[Mynabird]

Butch, we have the hitch-type flap. It does not block our back-up sensors!!! Have used on both trailers & trucks now. (of course, we have a Dodge!)

But, now Bob is thinking of adding flaps to the truck tires to help keep from splashing up on the truck!!!

See the picture below.

[The Oldguard]

Sent you a e-mail about our mudflaps

[Tom S.]

We have both. The mudflaps on the truck stay there year round to protect it, and when towing, I add the hitch mounted ones to protect the trailer. The hitch brand is Enkay, and I like them because they are easy to adjust both width and height.

[Crossthread]

Butch, Most all curbs are 6 in. high. The parking lot curb bumpers are lower, I think. I have my mud flaps mounted at 6,&1/4 in. I haven't had a problem yet. As the flap gets pushed toward the tire as you back up, it swings to about 7 in. high. A rail road cross tie used as a curb bumper could bite it off tho. Some areas with heavy rain can have 8 in curb & gutters. ( there are still a few dings on the trailer tho) Bill

[RichR]

I have mud flaps installed by a local ruck parts company-work well without any problems.Made for a dually PU.

[dpam]

I have both - mud flaps on the truck and I purchased Rock Tamers that slide in to the 2 inch receiver from Cabela's for $200.00. Before purchasing the Rock Tamers the monty was always dirty and still got rock chips. With the Rock Tamers the monty is clean and I no longer get rock chips. The Rock Tamer frame is very solid and has adjustments. The rubber flaps are solid rubber and after an adjustment the rubber flap doesn`t interfere with the stock diesel exhaust pipe. My truck is a 2011 GMC. I am very pleased with the Rock Tamers. The Rock Tamers interfere with the back up sensors, but I simply turn them off, as I have a back up camera built in to my tailgate.

[1retired06]

With duallys, since they are pigs with mud,dirt, and rocks, mudflaps are essential to protect the rear extended fenders. Hitch mounted deflectors will not provide that protection.

[Fire5er]

As 1retired06 stated, without mud flaps duallys can be nasty. We had the mud flap option from Ford when we ordered our truck. But after the first few months with the Ford mud flaps we chose to replace them with Duraflaps both front and back.

[richfaa]

Ditto on the paint chips on the full Body paint. Wec are going to install some clear plastic or lexon on the front sides of the bIg Sky to deal with the paint chips.

[Parts Ed]

I invested in the Rock Solid hitch mounted splash/rock guard (the one with the "plastic fingers") and really like it. The only drawback is that you have to keep an eye on it possibly moving on the ball mount and it scratching your rear bumper. Mine ended up rubbing on the chrome bumper (metal to metal) but I am going to try and polish it out. Other than that, I like it.

[Carl n Susan]

Great feedback and information! I have a SRW and I am less concerned with protecting the truck (it is a truck after all and the paint is a lot tougher) than the Montana. I am leaning towards the hitch mounted deflectors as they seem to offer better protection. I will need to do a little measuring to ensure the exhaust doesn't get too close to the flaps. And I don't fully understand how the bracket attaches to the hitch. I don't want a problem like Parts Ed encountered.

quote:
Wec are going to install some clear plastic or lexon on the front sides of the bIg Sky ....

I looked at that as a solution, but unless you attach one huge sheet, the various doors and latches make that somewhat difficult. And one huge sheet brings in another set of problems.

Relative to some type of protection applied directly to the RV, there are two I am aware of.

• Diamond-Shield – This is a clear urethane film applied to the front and used by a number of motor home manufacturers. Obviously the paint needs to be in perfect shape before application. I don’t have an estimated cost but I suspect it is much more than mud flaps. http://www.diamond-shield.com/index....tection%20Film

• Rhino Lining – This popular product now comes in any color you desire. The condition of the existing paint is not an issue as it will be covered. A local dealer estimated the cost at around $600 for the front slope of the RV. http://liners.rhinolinings.com/en/products/color-match

I am hoping the mud flap technique works. If not, the next step for me will be the Rhino Lining application.

[Crossthread]

Butch, Check the lower underside of the bumper for predrilled holes. You may be able to stabilize the ends of the deflector from there. Bill

[richfaa]

re the plastic shield... The truck itself protects the center of the front of the RV. The chips occur along the sides. we noted this on our 06 3400 over 6 years. We also tried the hitch mountes deflectors.....they did not work well.
The chips seem to gather on the sides and about 2 feet up the Rv . I think the plastic shield will work.. we had a similar thing on our Terry TT and it worked well.