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Old 07-05-2007, 03:43 AM   #1
Cyrus
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Slide tripping breaker

I had posted about problems with the slide breaker tripping multiple times to get all three out or in. When new it might have tripped once in putting out/in all three. Then it started getting worse to the point I would spend minutes getting them in or out. I read all the comments but had not tried to fix it until yesterday. I decided that I would lubricate everything first. It did not help. I don’t believe they had ever been lubricated before and I felt they should be anyway. I had gotten a new 50 amp breaker so I installed it and I could run all three in or out without releasing the button or the breaker tripping.

One thing that should have told me the breaker had a problem was the pump was not sounding like it was under a load when tripping. When all three had finished moving the pump would load up but didn’t trip the breaker.
 
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Old 07-05-2007, 04:12 AM   #2
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Glad it works well now, did you replace a 50 with a 50? Was the original breaker a 50 Amp?
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Old 07-05-2007, 04:42 AM   #3
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That's the solution MIMF aka Dale suggested to me. Mine works just fine now, too. Carry a spare auto-reset 50A, now. Cheap fix and easy to do. Ozz, 50A is the largest AUTO-reset available.
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Old 07-05-2007, 07:53 AM   #4
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here is what you need to try. It has worked for me and many others in the MOC.

http://i6.tinypic.com/1zps3kh.jpg

If you want a detailed instructions send me yuur E-mail address and I;ll send you what Lippert sent me.
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Old 07-05-2007, 07:55 AM   #5
richfaa
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I have a 80amp reset..Not using it but I have one..Got it at a RV dealer.
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:34 AM   #6
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Don,
Re. picture etc. Are those twin 40s in parallel? Dale mentioned that as an alternative.
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Old 07-05-2007, 02:24 PM   #7
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Ozz,
The original was a 50 amp & I finally got to a RV dealer and he had the correct mounting configuration in a 50 amp. NAPA had a 50 but mounting was wrong. There is another 50 amp beside it that seems to feed everything else but the front legs which has a 30 amp fuse with the socket built into the wire.

Thank you and all the others for the help on the problem. Since the slides didn't appear to have any lubricant on them I tried that first but didn't see any real improvement. The breaker was the problem.
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Old 07-05-2007, 04:16 PM   #8
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Glad you got it fixed Cyrus.
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Old 07-05-2007, 05:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by capn chris

Don,
Re. picture etc. Are those twin 40s in parallel? Dale mentioned that as an alternative.
I used twin 50's, or a pair of Cazouls. HA HA
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Old 07-06-2007, 12:44 AM   #10
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I didn’t think of this until looking at Trailer Trash 2’s picture of the two breakers. One of the terminals is copper colored. Does this device have to be wired in the circuit in a certain way? There is nothing on the box about this but it’s got me wondering?
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Old 07-06-2007, 01:51 AM   #11
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No, either way, but I noticed that too.
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Old 07-06-2007, 03:34 PM   #12
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OZZ and Cyrus


It's the way Dale's instructions said to do it. and he gave his blessings on the picture said it was right..
see his picture on tag
http://i19.tinypic.com/53za4qb.jpg


Works for me.
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Old 07-06-2007, 05:49 PM   #13
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OZZ and Cyrus

The COPPER stud is BATTERY. The other is AUX (load). I was awake during that class.
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Old 07-07-2007, 01:18 AM   #14
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What would happen if you swiched the wires? I bet it would work. It's just a thermal overload in the line.
I would hook it up as suggested, however.
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Old 07-07-2007, 04:09 AM   #15
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quote:Originally posted by Ozz

What would happen if you swiched the wires? I bet it would work. It's just a thermal overload in the line.
I would hook it up as suggested, however.
I wondered that too OZZ, but why do they have a battery side and an Aux side???
Is it because DC voltage goes one direction simular to ark welding ( a positive tip or a negitive tip ).
Oh well....
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Old 07-07-2007, 01:20 PM   #16
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My original configuration had the copper to the battery so I have the replacement the same way. The package didn’t indicate anything about this? Thanks for the help.

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