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There are lots of prior posts that should help you, if you can find them. I have found searching for posts on this forum to be very difficult in the past. So, I offer this advice, to aid you. I assume you have an rv fridge and that you have the installation guide for your fridge. Review that document and then remove the upper vent panel...assuming the fridge is mounted in a slide. You want to insure that what you see is per the document. For a Norwood fridge, there should be a metal piece that directs airflow into the coils and it should be very close to the bottom of the coils. There should be another metal plate at the top that shields the top of the fridge and then curves outward to fall against the slide wall slightly above the vent opening. If these are to the document, then you should next make sure the two fans mounted in the top part of the fridge cycle on and off according to temperatures rising through the coils. These are controlled by a small metal sensor mounted on the coil. It has two wires on it and if you short out the sensor, you should hear the fans come on. These should be able to be heard from inside the trailer cycling on and off. It may be that the sensor is bad if you never hear the fans working during normal operation. Shorting out the sensor terminals with a screwdriver will tell you instantly that the fans do indeed work. Some have installed more fans behind the bottom vent panel to suck in more air to help bring temperatures down. A battery powered fan inside the fridge will help, but not a lot.
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2012 F350 6.7 L dually, 2013 3800RE with 6 pt leveling, Sumitomo 17.5" load range h tires, Samsung 18 cu ft residential fridge, 8k Morryde I.S. with disc brakes. Full timing since 2012.
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