Montana battery question

[fcagle]

Good evening!

I have a 2006 Montana with battery and converter for off the grid camping. My question may be odd, but is there a charging feature for the battery when it is connected to 50 amp power?
It supposedly charges when attached to the truck, but not sure about when connected to power.

Thanks in advance for clarification.

[mlh]

It will charge when connected to 110 shore power if the converter is working.
Lynwood

[fcagle]

Thank you!
I thought that it should, but it is not. That gives me an idea where to begin.

[DQDick]

Converters do tend to more susceptible to failure with age. Two other possibilities would be a battery shut off switch if rig has one as it issolates the batteries and will keep the converter from working. Also check the breaker for the converter as it could be off.

[rohrmann]

A third cause of no charging could be if the polarity of the battery connections had been accidentally reversed during a battery install which would have blown the reverse polarity protection fuses.

[ToolMan]

I have an '06 2955rl and it came with an IOTA converter. This was probably oem and can be upgraded to a 4 stage smart charger by using this, IOTA Engineering IQ4 Smart Charger adapter. I bought it on Amazon for about $20. It plugs into the converter with a short phone cord. I found this out by talking to tech support @ IOTA. I accessed the converter through the back curb side basement wall. The control has a flashing light to let you know it's working. I mounted the little control box behind the cold air return under the steps so I could see the light through the grill.

[Bkurt]

I have a 2006 The converter/charger is directly behind breaker panel in bathroom. Only way I can access is through ceiling in washer/dryer room or cut the panel directly above washer/dryer door. Havent had to get to it yet thank goodness.
Also mine has a breaker to turn on or off. I have solar so I rarely turn the breaker on.

[Carl n Susan]

Originally Posted by Bkurt

I have a 2006 The converter/charger is directly behind breaker panel in bathroom. Only way I can access is through ceiling in washer/dryer room or cut the panel directly above washer/dryer door. Havent had to get to it yet thank goodness.
Also mine has a breaker to turn on or off. I have solar so I rarely turn the breaker on.

You apparently have a 3400 model which is the one where they stuck the converter behind the fuse panel. It is pretty easy to remove the screws holding the fuse panel, pull it out (lots of slack in the wires) and then have easy access to the converter.

[Bkurt]

Thanks for the info.

Kurt

[D A Busman]

Originally Posted by Carl n Susan

You apparently have a 3400 model which is the one where they stuck the converter behind the fuse panel. It is pretty easy to remove the screws holding the fuse panel, pull it out (lots of slack in the wires) and then have easy access to the converter.

I had to do this on my 06 3400rl. It is no problem just make sure your shore power is unplugged to avoid all possibilities of a tickle.

[rames14]

Just be aware. Your comment about charging while connected to the truck is misleading. If you are referring to your 7 pin connector, it is a trickle charge at best. By that I’m talking about 2-5 amps per hour of driving. Your propane detector and other parasitic loads probably draw 2 to 3 amps, so you are probably a draw at best. That’s why many of us have a form of DC to DC charging. I have the Smart BIM system which gives about 40 amps per hour driving. Others use the Renogy or similar system. If you have a clamp meter, it’s easy to check both your charger and your seven pin. Good luck. Our first unit was a 3400.

[twindman]

Originally Posted by rames14

Just be aware. Your comment about charging while connected to the truck is misleading. If you are referring to your 7 pin connector, it is a trickle charge at best. By that I’m talking about 2-5 amps per hour of driving. Your propane detector and other parasitic loads probably draw 2 to 3 amps, so you are probably a draw at best. That’s why many of us have a form of DC to DC charging. I have the Smart BIM system which gives about 40 amps per hour driving. Others use the Renogy or similar system. If you have a clamp meter, it’s easy to check both your charger and your seven pin. Good luck. Our first unit was a 3400.

Ron, I am not sure this is accurate. In 48 hours you would use 96-144A. Standard batteries are, what, maybe 100-120 AH? I think rigs can go several days (5-6) unplugged with just the parasitic draw. I went around 22 hours with the furnace running for about 10-12 hours and lights for 5 or 6 - of course the battery was dead then!

[rames14]

Tom, my current unit consumes 10 amps/hr with nothing running. Glad you are able to get that much out of yours. Older units didn’t have near the overhead, but I’ve seen too many ruined batteries over the years.

[twindman]

Ron, wow that is a lot of juice with nothing running! Maybe the new tv router thing and - can't think of anything else!!!.....

[rames14]

Tom, the inverter, router, satellite receiver, fire TV, chargers, smart plugs, sensors, IN Command all take power. With 540 ah of lithium and 1200 watts of solar, it’s not an issue. The point I was making to the OP was that the 7 pin isn’t doing much to recharge his batteries.

[twindman]

Originally Posted by rames14

Tom, the inverter, router, satellite receiver, fire TV, chargers, smart plugs, sensors, IN Command all take power. With 540 ah of lithium and 1200 watts of solar, it’s not an issue. The point I was making to the OP was that the 7 pin isn’t doing much to recharge his batteries.

Well that explains it. All I have of those items listed is the sensors!