Converting back to a LP gas fridge.

[Stan and Linda]

Hello all. This is my first post and you all have saved me alot over the years with this Forum. I want to thank you all. Now to my issue. I have a 2018 3811MS. When we bought the camper we didnt investigate the options to power to the residential fridge. We are in the middle of a western trip and realize how limiting it is for this refridge to boondock. My question is has anyone ever converted back to a 12v/LP gas fridge. If you have were you happy with the conversion. Mostly what did it cost to covert. Any info would be great and again thanks for all the help this forum has been.

[rohrmann]

I would think having plenty of batteries and a small Honda or other similar generator to recharge the batteries over night would be much cheaper than changing the fridge. You might even consider some solar if you do a lot of boondocking.

[mhs4771]

You'd had to check, but I think a new RV AC/Gas Fridge will run 3 to 4 thousand dollars. That would buy more batteries and even some solar or a good small generator.

[mlh]

It’s going to be very expensive. You are like me. I like to boondock. I live in the country and don’t like camp grounds. They are too much like living town. If I were you I’d get a generator from Harbor Freight and use it. The 2000 watt is about $450 and the 3500 is about $800.
Lynwood

[AZ Traveler]

Stan and Linda,

My recommendations mirror those above. Consider:
-A bigger battery bank like 4 6V golf cart batteries
-Wire more plugs from your inverter
-400-500 watts of solar
-1 or 2 2000 watt gennys (2 if you want to run one of your a/cs)

[Stan and Linda]

Thanks everyone, adding batteries and larger generator has definitely been a consideration. We have been trying to figure out how many amp hours the fridge would use in an 8 hour period. Thank you for your inputs.

[dieselguy]

It also depends on your actual need as far as size of fridge. I'll buck the trend here and say we've never needed a residential fridge found in current model RV's that's the same size or bigger than our stick house fridge. An 8 cubic foot gas electric fridge has always satisfied our needs. These can be bought currently for around $1800 ... the previous $3-4K quote was for the monster 4 door gas electric fridges. If you already are semi setup for boondocking with a large battery bank and a mid sized generator along with fuel cans, or solar setup ($$$) then me saying I'd rather not drag all that around is moot. The MOC is a great website, but it is very full or long time opinion heavy ... I've always had a seasonal RV'er mindset. Here's a good website for info on amp hour draw of fridges. https://campergrid.com/rv-refrigerator-on-battery/

[DQDick]

On our old rig we had 6 golf cart batteries, 7 solar pannels and we were still advised against trying to run a residential refrigerator and the other things we wanted to run. If it were me and I felt I had to do it, i'd convert.

[uhftx]

By far solar panels are the largest bang for the buck when pricing high dollar appliance changes. I would thing 1200 watts of solar panel, Basically covering the roof would be sufficient. There are propane residential fridges. Our off grid camps with outhouses always had propane fridges. You will have to shop around. If you are lucky you will find something close to the dimensions of your current fridge. But it will take some customization. They are not dual fuel meaning propane only and not electric. No light will come on when you open the door and you will always have to have propane onboard just for the fridge.
Good luck with whatever you decide. The genset and more solar, larger inverter will do you wonders for off grid living. Look it up for yourself and make an informed decision.

[Montana Man]

There are plenty of folks that do not like their propane fridge. Perhaps a trade could be found.

Otherwise, I would do the calcs on power consumption and consider batteries and generator. My idea of boondocking includes plenty of shade.

[twindman]

Here is a link to everything you need to know about solar. I looked into it and decided it wasn't for me, but handy bob lives completely off the grid and if memory serves, he can go for 4-5 days with cloudy weather. Also, he can run an A/C I think. Many installers (as some you find at Quartzsite) don't really know what they are doing. A lot of details like length of wire, size of wires, etc are all important.
Good luck: https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/

[bcrvman]

Originally Posted by Stan and Linda

Thanks everyone, adding batteries and larger generator has definitely been a consideration. We have been trying to figure out how many amp hours the fridge would use in an 8 hour period. Thank you for your inputs.

I have the same unit. I measured the fridge over a period of weeks to get good averaging. It uses 1.5kWh per day. On day 1 I tossed the ridiculous non deep discharge batteries that came with the trailer and installed a pair of Trojan T105's. I also installed the Trimetric TM-2030RV battery monitor that I bought log before I bought the RV. I also bought a pair of Honda EU2000's just in case. With the T105's you have a little less than a day of power just for the fridge. I was going to add 2 more T105's but a windfall inheritance allowed me to install 400AH of Lithium and 680 Watts of solar. Removed the factory dedicated inverter, installed a Victron 3,000 watt inverter and with the moving of two wires the entire living area is now powered for close to 3 days if NO sun. We will be boondockig for 5 days at a time once we can move again.

[richfaa]

We do not boondock. We have been on the road as long timers since 2006. We do not have a residential fridge and do fine without it, I would check the prices for a RV fridge before relying on the prices quoted here.

[skypilot]

I haven't seen anyone speak about what it would take to get ready to install the RV Fridg. Do you already have propane running to where you want the refer installed? Do you have the vent holes already there (probably not so you'll have to cut them in and fashion the right 'cabinet' for the RV Fridge to have necessary clearances and all the assorted spaces needed for venting the flue)? If not in a slide then you have the issue of venting through the roof. No matter how you look at it, it is going to cost big bucks just to get the spot ready for the RV Fridge.

[PNW Fireguy]

If you are prepared to spend 4K to install an RV fridge you can use that same budget to install sufficient batteries and and solar to cover your residential fridge load along with additional creature comfort loads for boondocking. It can be done.

[MuddyPaws]

Figure out what brand and model was in it originally and let google find you a used one. With the fad being to take them out and put in residential refers there's bound to be some available. I remember someone on another site trying to give one away. A Norcold 1201 L series.

[skypilot]

I just did a quick Google search for the OP's 3811MS Keystone Montana specs and found that it came with a residential refrigerator as standard equipment. The site did not give the year though so something could have changed.

[skypilot]

Just did another search and specifically looked for 2018's. Looked at pictures (all showed residential fridges) and a couple of RV trader posts and one had nothing regarding the fridge, the other stated residential.



Given this I still think that the cost of modifying the coach to take an R/V refrigerator would far exceed the cost of more batteries, a small portable (or two) generator, or even solar.

[uhftx]

venting the co2 gas out of the rig is something I did not consider in my post reply. Any and all modifications come with a cost. But this could be a deadly consideration without modifications. Which are all energy inefficient if not done properly if freezing temps. Be cautious and be safe is all.
Stay with what you got and install a better power supply for it.
Unless you decide otherwise and do it safely.

[dfb]

Doesnt the slide have to be removed to get the fridge out?