Oil level in RAM Cummins Diesel engines

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by kozzy

page 276 of the Diesel Supplement.
I have the same engine

It also shows a temperature graph showing both oils, and the 15W-40 stopping at the 0 mark, and the 5W-40 continuing on below 0, but both continuing the same above O.

It doesn't matter which oil above 0 degrees

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by kozzy

I have a 2016 Ram 6.7 HO, Diesel supplement recommends the following word for word:
In ambient temperatures above 0°F (-18°C), we recommend you use SAE 15W-40 engine oil such as MOPAR, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required. Products meeting Cummins CES 20081 may also be used. The identification of these engine oils is typically located on the back of the oil container. In ambient temperatures below 0°F (-18°C), SAE 5W-40 we recommend you use synthetic engine oil such as MOPAR, Shell Rotella and Shell Rimula that meets FCA Material Standard MS-10902 and the API CJ-4 engine oil category is required.

I use the recommended Shell Rotella T6 no issues with that BUT i dont know why, but after I go about 7K on an oil change, i get a drip on my garage floor every once in a while, from the filter. I tighten it, it goes away, but might happen again. Never seem to see the level on the dip stick go down ...thoughts?

I have used T4 Rotella for the past 21 years with my diesel trucks, I see no reason for those expensive synthetics. I am not looking to get 500K out of this 2014 Ram 3500 6.7, it will be long gone before that ,and on to another truck.

I never seem to lose any oil between changes, but I change it every six months, and thats usually around 5K miles .

[kozzy]

They recommend the Rotella so I use it. nothing wrong with it.
Yeah im not sure why the drip happens here and there. I sue the mopar filter, and I change it everything the truck tells me its ready .

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by kozzy

They recommend the Rotella so I use it. nothing wrong with it.
Yeah im not sure why the drip happens here and there. I sue the mopar filter, and I change it everything the truck tells me its ready .

No there is nothing wrong with it, and probably why they also recommend the T4 . Its just that you are covered below 0 with the T6. I am never in any weather below 0 so I am not going to use the more expensive oil . Some swear by it, but I don't see the need .

I started using the Fleetguard LF 16035, before that it was the Mopar. I just order the 3 pack of the Fleetguard now from Amazon, and I'm covered for 18 months.

I follow the manual , which states 15K miles OR six months, I never reach 15K , so for me its every six months .

I had that same issue with my previous truck a Ford Superduty ,would always get just a slight leak on the filter, nothing serious ,but it would leak once ,and awhile .
I would tweak it a bit, and it seemed to stop .

[Eagleback]

Originally Posted by PSFORD99

Not in my manual ,nor the diesel supplement does it say what you are saying. What it does say is 5W-40 synthetic is recommended at below 0 degrees,
and 15W-40 above 0 degrees . Although 5W-40 can be run at the same temperatures above 0 degrees as the 15W-40 is ran at . In other words both can be run above 0 degrees , but only 5W-40 synthetic below 0 degrees .

The reason is cold weather starts at 0 or below.

I must retract my statement as you are correct. I reread it and it does say recommend in cold temps. but why would the dealer say Not recommended and void warranty if used in normal temps?

[mhs4771]

Very simple: Dealer wants you to come to them for all service!

[Eagleback]

Yea but you would think that the synthetic oil price would be what they would want. Interesting.

[kozzy]

Not sure why the dealer would say that. My dealer says otherwise. Very strange.
I use the T6 cause in good ol upstate NY we get below 0. I used to use the mobile 1 and amsoil, the the Shell rotella is quite a bit cheaper, I get a 4 quart jug on amazon for 19.99, and since it is what the manufacture recommends, and its priced right, i go with it. 62000 on my truck, no issues at all....and for those looking for filters, dieselfiltersonline.com has great prices, also check amazon. Not trying to change the subject, just tossing it in there.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by Eagleback

I must retract my statement as you are correct. I reread it and it does say recommend in cold temps. but why would the dealer say Not recommended and void warranty if used in normal temps?

I don't know why the warranty thing, but it seems they are mixed up thinking on the 0 degrees, thinking only below 0, but its good for any temperature the 5W-40

[masterdrago]

Originally Posted by Eagleback

My 2013 and my 2017 cummins, Synthetic oil is NOT recommended unless in extreme cold temp where the ambient temp is 20 deg or lower. The dealer will not put it in and says it can void warranty.


I know im going to get slack from that statement but it does say it in the owners manual.

When I've changed oil, 12 qts fills to the middle of the "safe" zone. That's including with a new filter. Also in my 2017 diesel supplement owners manual on page 179 it says synthetic oil may be used. I have always used the Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w40 simply because it covers the entire temp range that I might find and meets all the requirements by Cummins........
CJ-4 and Cummins CES 20086 as well as the older CES 20081

[Sac Colorado]

Hi, I have a 2017 RAM 3500 4x4 with the 6.7 cummins and I've been running Shell T6 Rotella 5W40 full synthetic since the first oil change. I've attached page 179 from the "2017 RAM Diesel Supplement" document. I've highlighted the info about full synthetic usage. Your comment about the "dealer would void the warrantee" - they must not have read or ignored the RAM documentation. I'm sending this reply and info because I know a lot of cummins owners are running full synthetic and I don't want them worrying that they are doing anything wrong to their expensive diesel.

[mdvaughn]

My 1998 Ram had 380,000 when I traded it off.

Only refilled with 11 quarts at each oil change.

On the first trip I rechecked the oil level and added as needed.

By not blindly filling with 12 quarts I picked up about 1 to 2 MPG; was the crank draging through the over fill? IDk but 380,000 with no engine issues I have to say it probably didn't hurt to avoid the over fill.

[PSFORD99]

Originally Posted by mdvaughn

My 1998 Ram had 380,000 when I traded it off.

Only refilled with 11 quarts at each oil change.

On the first trip I rechecked the oil level and added as needed.

By not blindly filling with 12 quarts I picked up about 1 to 2 MPG; was the crank draging through the over fill? IDk but 380,000 with no engine issues I have to say it probably didn't hurt to avoid the over fill.

I blindy fill with 12 quarts, and it shows right on the full mark, I do not consider 1/16” over the mark an overfill .
1 quart more dispersed thru the motor, I think that’s a stretch on ANY drag on it .

[ChasManDo]

Is it high right after they change it or when you you check it later? Until I deleted my Ram it would increase over a period of time. What happens is when they go through a regeneration the diesel fuel that is used to perform the regen leaks through the cylinders and goes into the oil pan. It mixes with the oil and adds to the capacity in the pan. I was told it was never enough to hurt anything but I do know for a fact that when I deleted the DPF and stopped the ECM from preforming a regeneration it all stopped. The oil level never increased. The theory of using a Diesel Particulate Filter for smog control is great, in reality and implementation it is terrible.

[mlh]

Originally Posted by ChasManDo

Is it high right after they change it or when you you check it later? Until I deleted my Ram it would increase over a period of time. What happens is when they go through a regeneration the diesel fuel that is used to perform the regen leaks through the cylinders and goes into the oil pan. It mixes with the oil and adds to the capacity in the pan. I was told it was never enough to hurt anything but I do know for a fact that when I deleted the DPF and stopped the ECM from preforming a regeneration it all stopped. The oil level never increased. The theory of using a Diesel Particulate Filter for smog control is great, in reality and implementation it is terrible.

The industry standard for fuel in the oil was always less than 2%. I had 14% in my oil on my first oil change and that is when I got rid of the DPF. Now I have less than 1/2 % fuel in the oil. Chevy has it right. They inject fuel in the exhaust pipe instead of the engine on the exhaust stroke.
When I did the DPF delete I tuned my 08 Ford and now have about 600 HP and 1100 Tk. Nice.
Lynwood

[vipermanden]

mlh, sounds not very legal to me? Will you be able to sell it in this condition?

[mlh]

Originally Posted by vipermanden

mlh, sounds not very legal to me? Will you be able to sell it in this condition?

If I wonted to sell my F250 I’d have people standing in line to get it. If someone wonted to it could be put back to stock with an almost new DPF and EGR. I don’t know why anyone would put it back to stock.
Lynwood

[ChasManDo]

Originally Posted by mlh

The industry standard for fuel in the oil was always less than 2%. I had 14% in my oil on my first oil change and that is when I got rid of the DPF. Now I have less than 1/2 % fuel in the oil. Chevy has it right. They inject fuel in the exhaust pipe instead of the engine on the exhaust stroke.
When I did the DPF delete I tuned my 08 Ford and now have about 600 HP and 1100 Tk. Nice.
Lynwood

I wasn't too concerned about performance increase when doing mine. I always felt it had plenty of power and torque for what I needed. I did mine for the longevity of the motor. The EGR sytem in these new diesels is also a bad deal and causes a lot of problems. Mine just ran a lot cleaner afterwards...

[CarWin]

No matter what "Mods" are done to trucks and or pollution systems on them, you can sell them! You may not be able to sell to a dealer or trade in to a dealer, but definitely able to sell them private party wise.

It`s smarter to sell yourself than to trade anyways, as you get more out of it than most any dealer is willing to give you.

[ChasManDo]

I ended up selling mine anyways and going with this, Its a 1999 Volvo with a Cummins N14 Celect Plus motor. Totally redone in 2007. Requires no EGR and no DPF or any other smog junk. Just plain clean power....