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Old 08-25-2006, 04:16 PM   #1
Bluegill
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Do you let your diesel idle, before killing it

After driving a while or even after just driving to the grocery store, Do you let your diesel idle a while before you shut it off? I have heard different opinions. The diesels of yester-year needed to idle a while but today's deisel doesnt.
I'm going to try to find something in my owners manual.
(i hate reading intstructions)



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Old 08-25-2006, 04:36 PM   #2
snfexpress
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I have a pyrometer (exhaust temp gage), and I was told by a diesel mechanic not to turn off the engine until the temp was below 500 degrees - otherwise there could be a problem with the turbine oil getting too hot and frying the turbo, on our 2006 GMC.

Just what I was told, but I do follow it.

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Old 08-25-2006, 04:39 PM   #3
JH Sechelt
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If I was just going to the store I wouldn't idle it down. But If I was pulling the Monty on a long trip and everything was running hot, I sure would. Depends on how hard the turbo is working. And how hot every thing is.
One thing I always do.... Let the engine run for 5 to 10 minutes before I take off in the truck.
That's why I put a remote starter in it. I start it while I'm making my coffee to take to work, or while I am getting ready. I don't like running them too hard while the engine is still rattling. maybe its just me.



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Old 08-25-2006, 05:14 PM   #4
LonnieB
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Not just you John, count me too. I've ran diesel engines most of my life on one thing or another, and I always let them warm up when they have set for several hours. I just think it's better for them, maybe it goes back to when I was a kid and it was better for my backside if my dad didn't catch me revving up a piece of equipment first thing in the morning. I also give them a few minutes for the turbo to cool before shutting down if I've been working them hard. Around town, I don't worry about it. Yes pyrometers are a good thing.

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Old 08-25-2006, 05:55 PM   #5
sheiba1
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The oil being pumped through the bearings will turn into a sludge when the engine is shut of hot and cause the bearing to freeze up destroying the shaft and the housing. I worked as a diesel mechanic many years ago and had seen many destroyed turbos. I will not shut mine of till the EGT is 300 degrees, it will take a while for the damage to appear but believe me it will appear!
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Old 08-25-2006, 06:07 PM   #6
Bluegill
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It looks like I might want to get an ETG installed.. huh ?
Right now I'm just letting it sit for a minute or two. I havent pulled anything with it yet, just local driving.

Thanks for the tip.




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Old 08-25-2006, 06:08 PM   #7
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Let them cool down, but don't warm them up. They warm up better being used---maybe not drag racing right away. As soon as the oil pressure is up, they are good to go (read your manual). You are probably the guys who wake us up by running your diesels for way too long early in the morning! :-)

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Old 08-25-2006, 06:42 PM   #8
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I let my Duramax idle down to 300-350 degrees before shutting down. When not towing and normal driving, that idle time is usually less that a minute. If towing the coach or my other heavy trailers this time can easily reach 2-4 minutes, depends on how hard I was towing and outside air temp. I was told by my dealership 300/350 was the safe shutdown temp. So far 59,000 miles on this one and 30,000 on my previous Duramax I have not had any trouble.


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Old 08-26-2006, 03:13 AM   #9
Bob Pasternak
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One thing to keep in mind is how fast that turbo spins. If you've been pulling and it is turning 20,000 rpm and you shut off the engine, it is no longer oiled and you're courting disaster. I had my Dodge dealer set the "high idle" feature on my Cummins and if we pull into a rest area or are only going to be stopped for a short time I set it. Also keeps it cool in the summer when the a/c isn't too good at idle. High idle is 1100 rpm.

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I bought a Cummins engine, it just came wrapped in a Dodge.

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Old 08-26-2006, 03:50 AM   #10
Charlie
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My Ford manual states during trailer pulling or heavy load conditions allow the engine to idle 7-10 minutes for cool down to prevent carbon forming in the turbo bearings from over heated oil due to excessive heat. I also have a EGT indicator on the turbo outlet and I let it cool to 225-250 degrees before turning off the engine.

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Old 08-26-2006, 04:05 AM   #11
tcorbitt
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Twenty years and 5 Diesels with no major problems. As others have stated, warm up before driving hard, and idle down after pulling hard. Remote starters with Idle down feature for Diesel Turbo cool down are worth the investment. I have the CoolStart brand. It can be programmed to idle down the engine (let you take out the key) for up to 10 mins after you leave the truck. Also has the ability to start automatically at pre-set times. Tim

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Old 08-26-2006, 04:34 AM   #12
Bluegill
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okay, Dumb question time.

Is the ETG something that an average guy can install? Plug and play type installation? or is it
something you really need to get done at a shop? It sounds like something I really want and need to have.

Blue



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Old 08-26-2006, 05:01 AM   #13
Bob Pasternak
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Bluegill: The EGT gauge has a probe that needs to be installed about 2 or 2 1/2 inches behind the turbo outlet. You must drill and tap the pipe. I've also seen them that have a screw type radiator clamp looking band that you can put it on with. Regardless of which one you use, you must drill the pipe.

'05 Dodge 2500 SLT Quad-cab Cummins. Auto 4X2 LB 3.73. 15K Reese. '06 Montana 3000RK.
I bought a Cummins engine, it just came wrapped in a Dodge.

Seen on a tombstone in Tombstone, AZ "Here lies Lester Moore: 4 slugs from a .44: No Les no more."


Our '06 3000RK. Length: 36' 2". (Nose cap to ladder.) OAL 52'. Dry weight (2 filled gas bottles.)10340. Pin weight: 2240
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Old 08-26-2006, 05:39 AM   #14
Charlie
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If you are a good mechanic you can do yourself, but definitely need to know what you are doing. There are two different ways it can be done, either on the turbo inlet or the turbo outlet. Mine is on the outlet. If the inlet is drilled and tapped there is always the chance that fillings can enter the pipe potentially causing damage to the turbo.

My recommendation....have it professionally done!!!!!!

Charlie
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Old 08-26-2006, 06:27 AM   #15
sreigle
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Keep in mind the temperatures you shut it off at depends on location of the probe. Mine is pre-turbo, mounted in the exhaust manifold right at an exhaust port. So my temperatures will read considerably hotter than those with probe post-turbo. I let mine cool to below 500 before shutting it off. Rarely does that take more than a few seconds. Pulling into a rest area, for example, it usually will be down below 500 before I stop. After a long, steep uphill grade it may take up to 20 or 30 seconds.

The installer pulled the manifold off, drilled and tapped it, then cleaned it up good to remove all filings. My previous truck was done the same way. There is a miniscule risk that if the probe ever breaks off it will take out the turbo. But I have yet to hear of this happening. I would not recommend drilling into the manifold without removing it and cleaning it up. Any filings at all in the manifold will do bad things to the turbo.

Some trucks supposedly have a plug you can remove and just screw the probe into that port. I don't know which ones that is nor whether the port actually exists on any engine. It would be something to look for, though.

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Old 08-26-2006, 07:11 AM   #16
Bluegill
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Pre-Turbo.. Post-Turbo...Alrighty then.. I am 99.7% sure that I will have it done... NO.. Wait...Naw.. I'm 100% sure I'm gunna have some one else do it. Since I'm on the road, I didnt bring a whole lot of tools with me.. just the VERY basics.

Thanks guys.
Blue



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Old 08-26-2006, 02:17 PM   #17
drhowell
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Some of the older Chevy diesels ran aluminum heads on cast blocks and they definitely needed to be cooled down since the two metals dissipate heat differently and they were known for warped heads and blown head gaskets.

I have always treated my diesel engines differently than gas. If the outside temp is 40 or below I usually warm them 5 minutes or so but warmer temps and preheated engines (run in last couple hours) I only give them a minute or less. As far as cool down I agree with most everyone else. Don't shut them down hot! Never pull a hill, stop at the top and shut her down. Asking for trouble. And always let the turbo speed spin down and cool off before shutting it down.

Had a good friend go through several turbos because he was driving it like his old gas rig. Hard to break old habits. He didn't even wait for the glow plugs to preheat a cold engine. Just jump in and crank her up and away we go. BTW He had nothing but trouble with his 04 F250 and now he has an 06 F350. I hope he has learned some things.

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Old 08-26-2006, 06:57 PM   #18
sheiba1
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Is the ETG something that an average guy can install? Plug and play type installation? or is it
something you really need to get done at a shop? It sounds like something I really want and need to have.

Blue


If your not pretty skilled I would let a pro do it, check with your truck dealer their prices are starting to fall in line with some of the shade tree mechanics. I know my dodge dealer flushed & changed my trans fluid and filter for a slightly better price than any of the big trans shops in town. I have been using them more frequently than other times earlier in life. I did my own install of the EGT probe and gauge but drilled and taped the manifold with out removing it. (old mechanics trick lots of grease on drill bit and a strong magnet, also a small lighted magnifying bend able scope that you can look down in the manifold to make sure you got all medal fragments out.) I still have most of my tools from when I worked as a mechanic but don’t do as much of my own work as I use too.
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Old 08-26-2006, 08:49 PM   #19
Montana Sky
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Back when I had my pyro and turbo boost gauges installed, the cost was around $400. My GM selling dealership did the install, I would rather pay the money and have the liability on them instead of me. I would highly suggest anyone towing with a diesel to look into having at least a pyro aka "EGT" gauge installed.


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Old 08-27-2006, 01:33 AM   #20
Jerzy54
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Bluegill,
I am interesting to add a EGT gauge and after some search I found
this site and interesting installation pictures. All I would like to
know is, if I have a factory trany temperature gauge and a turbo
gauge why would I need another set of gauges? Are the factory gages
not as good as the aftermarket once?
Here is the link I hope it will work: http://dieselmanor.com/diy/PSD3-gauge/PSD3gauge-p1.htm

Jerzy&Tricia05 Montana 3500RL05 Ford F250 Lariat 6.0L PSD SB CC FX4 4X4Reese Signature Series5TH Airborne King Pin
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