Slideout Hydraulic Hose advice

[RRman]

On my old 2005 Montana Big Sky 3670 It may be time to replace my slideout Hydraulic Hoses OR else the Pump and Reservoir are going bad.
I already replaced one leaking Bedroom Slideout Hose.

For the "main" or "opposing" slideout (per the Manifold Shutoff Valves) - is it safe to assume there is ONE Hydraulic Ram for each slideout?
Before I start dropping the Coroplast and insulation...
Would those Rams be Closest to the front of the RV where the Hydraulic Pump is located or elsewhere?

Anyone having done this to their old Montana's please advise!
Thanks!

[twindman]

I had a 2006 and am pretty sure all slideouts except the bedroom slide have cylinders that are visible underneath. So you can see where it goes under the coroplast. I think these older models still had bolts holding the coroplast up. However they are probably rusted on and may break, so you can just get new self threading bolts to replace them. I wouldn't attempt a replacement tho, as I think the pressure in these is high - like 4000 psi, but I am no expert by any means.
Edit: by the way, I had 2 go bad when almost new and was going the Goshen rally. Got an appt. at Lippert on our last day when leaving. They knew where to cut holes and just cut some flaps out in the right spots and put in new cylinders and we were on our way by noon.

[Carl n Susan]

There will be a hydraulic ram for each slide out (including the bedroom). They are located near the slide they operate. The main and kitchen slides are under the corplast. You can see the rams sticking out from under the frame. The bedroom slide ram is under the bed. Remove the plywood floor under the bed to access it.

[ChuckS]

The hydraulic cylinders for the main slides will be located end to end ( just about ) and simply look under the slide and you will see cylinder rod end.. the other end will be attached under coroplast to a frame bracket.

This will be about in the middle of the underbelly (In Line) with those two slide cylinders..

The operating psi is max of 2200psi... simply crack open a line fitting to bleed the pressure off and then remove and replace the line from end to end.

** Lines are not gonna help if you have a hyd pump motor or the pump itself that is aged and failing..
** on the pump manifold there are two QD fittings that a pressure gauge can bet attached to so you can verify system pressure during operation and also check for bleed down leaks..

** Hoses can be made at any NAPA parts store that builds hydraulic lines -- your lines use JIC37 fittings

** TIP - if you have to replace on of the slide out lines ( either extend or return ) attach a string to the old one at the end and pull hose and string through ... then attach new hose end to string and pull back through ( make sure to cover the open ends of the new line to avoid getting crap in them when pulling through the underbelly )

Wife and I changed two hyd main slide lines ... took us about 45 minutes to remove the old line and install new lines.. Of course we had to stop and drive down to local NAPA to get new lines made.. and we made then about 5 feet shorter then original because those were too long and found coiled up under the coroplast

[RRman]

Thanks!
I wonder why the Hydraulic Rams have to be at the rear so far from the Pump...and now understand the need to attach a string!
But on further cleanup and investigation it looks like my Hydraulic Pump tray puddle is likely the "traditional" Tank leak getting worse... But a lot of Black Plastic Sheathing has fallen off the hoses near the Pump Manifold.
But wiping them down found no evidence of fluid.
Level in the Tank is down a little over a Inch. Will top it off (to 1/4") with Sten's Hydraulic Stop Leak and Seal Conditioner vs Trans Fluid.
The slides have been cycling OK.

[ChuckS]

Originally Posted by RRman

Thanks!
I wonder why the Hydraulic Rams have to be at the rear so far from the Pump...and now understand the need to attach a string!
But on further cleanup and investigation it looks like my Hydraulic Pump tray puddle is likely the "traditional" Tank leak getting worse... But a lot of Black Plastic Sheathing has fallen off the hoses near the Pump Manifold.
But wiping them down found no evidence of fluid.
Level in the Tank is down a little over a Inch. Will top it off (to 1/4") with Sten's Hydraulic Stop Leak and Seal Conditioner vs Trans Fluid.
The slides have been cycling OK.

The design of the thru the frame hydraulic slide is such that "one arm" is driven and the other is simply a follower.. the actuators could have been installed on the non driven side instead but that is only a few feet difference in distance.

With the age of the unit when was the last time the reservoir was siphoned and fresh fluid installed?

On my 2014 the OEM fluid is AW32 instead of ATF and I change very 3 years... I dont use any additives for stiction.. still running all 3 original hyd slide cylinders and all 6 levelers...

the seal between the pump motor and reservoir can be replaced.. also there is a seal on the drive that fits into the motor itself... either of these can leak..