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Old 07-19-2010, 02:26 PM   #41
KathyandDave
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We have the Pull-Rite. I have high-hitched it and got away with it by pure dumb luck. Now, we know better what to look for. Especially, we examine the back of the kingpin to see if the jaw has truly wrapped around it. We also hit the hitch plate a bit low to make sure it climbs into position. We lift the LG about 1/4" off the ground to avoid bent legs, because a full-on pull-test makes the wheels climb the chocks.
 
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Old 07-20-2010, 07:31 AM   #42
Art
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Another issue to watch out for...I was assemblying my Reese Select Series 22K hitch for a summer trip. I simply turned it over to lift it and a washer fell out. In checking the underside of the plate portion, I found that an "E-style retaining ring" had fallen out (at some point) and the one side of the jaws wasn't closing completely. You may want to flip your plate over and check it on occasion...finding this probably saved me a side and tailgate blowout!
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Old 07-29-2010, 02:04 PM   #43
mduf
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Just a thought, if the legs are a inch off the ground the full weight of the pin is on the truck. You could maybe do a pull test with it not hitched and if you didn't pull hard enough it might not move. This could be the reason they want the legs on the ground.
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:03 AM   #44
KathyandDave
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If the gear is down, then the pull test will try to bend the legs, unless the feet slip along the ground, which may not be good, either. We use chocks for the pull test and raise the geat less than an inch (except for my embarassment this weekend...).
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Old 08-05-2010, 01:34 AM   #45
pbahlin
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I've struggled with the leg on/off the ground when doing the pull test as well. Here's something to think about for all those who pull test with the truck taking all the weight ( some gap between the legs and the ground) during the pull test.

If the pull test fails, i.e. the hitch was not hitched, and your truck moves forward then you run the risk of a violent upwards movement of your truck as it gets unloaded. This may not do any harm but you need to consider what would happen to your particular truck and hitch if this happens.

In my case, I have a Trailer Saver and it would mean that the hitch traveler would move rapidly to its full height and slam against the stops of the hitch. I decided I didn't want to have this happen to my hitch and air bags so I pull test with legs on the ground, fully chocked and with trailer bracks locked. One area of exposure with this method is that it's also the first time your brakes are tested. If you forgot to plug in or your brakes aren't working for some reason then you are pulling with only the chocks holding the trailer.

I guess there's no perfect solution. In the end you do what makes YOU comfortable.

I do one more thing before I leave the park. I fully apply the brakes on the trailer (only) to stop the truck. I'd rather lose the trailer in the park than on the highway. Once I pass this test I take a big deep breath and fogettaboutit.
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Old 08-05-2010, 03:45 AM   #46
Sheepdog
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I do the pull test with the legs on the ground for the reasons BahinOut states. There is not a lot of weight on the hitch and if the test fails there are no catastrophic events. On the other hand,if the legs are off the ground and the hitch fully loaded, it might take a lot more pull to unhook if the pin is not fully locked and may not come off until you are well on the road.
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