Dino vs Synthetic

[PowellsMonty]

Anyone switched over to synthetic? I have 20,000 and changing it Friday and the service writer (not a Ford store) was telling me all the hype the oil vendor told him. I was leaning towards the Shell Rotella again.
TIA

[illapah]

I just cannot seem to justify the cost in my mind and vehicle usage.

[SlickWillie]

I've used the Shell Rotella synthetic since the Duramax was new. I change around 10K miles, changing the filter at 5K miles. Figures out about the same price as changing the dino oil at every 5K miles.

[ARJ]

quote:Originally posted by SlickWillie

I've used the Shell Rotella synthetic since the Duramax was new. I change around 10K miles, changing the filter at 5K miles. Figures out about the same price as changing the dino oil at every 5K miles.

Same here but Mobil Turbo Diesel synthetic. (pretty cheap @ Amazon)

By pretty cheap I mean free shipping!

Also changed everything else to synthetic. Last trip empty @ 65mph the mileage seemed better than normal but I didn't calculate it.

Just filled up. 260mi hwy, 40 city. 14.3gal = 21mpg.

[8e3k0]

We have switched to Synthetic oils in all our vehicles front to back.
I will say that synthetic tends to crawl through seals easier and finds its way through gaskets/ threads a lot quicker than the old petroleum based oils.

[illapah]

Here is an interesting site for oil stuff:

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

[Glenn and Lorraine]

GM recommends dino and oil change at 10,000 miles and I follow that 100%. See no reason to spend the Xtra bucks for synthetic.

AS Mike said"was telling me all the hype the oil vendor told him". Keyword here is HYPE but than again what would you expect the "oil vendor" to say???

[TLightning]

My manual says to follow the DIC...and that the type of oil has nothing to do with frequency of change.

[skypilot]

Realize you are driving a Ford so this might not apply however, local Dodge dealer said to stay away from synthetic oils until 36 to 40K miles -- engine takes that long to fully break in. Changing to synthetic will lengthen the time of breakin (and could actually prevent full breakin) of some components increasing fuel seepage into the oil (leading to quicker fuel / oil contamination); the leakage that 8e3Ko mentioned above and the cost itself given our newer engines and all the soot that we are getting put into the oil. The longer intervals between oil changes are just not being seen given the soot and the nature of the wear caused by the soot.

So, given that guidance, again from the local Dodge dealer, I've stayed with the dino oil and roughly 5K oil changes (also dictated by the DIC to some degree).

[Tom S.]

I have used nothing but synthetic oil since 1978.

Let me tell you why! In 1977/1978 I, along with several friends bought new trucks. All were either Chevy or GMC, and all had the 350 cu engine. After a very unsatisfactory experience using Valvoline XLD in my 1973 Blazer, a friend convinced me to try using Mobil 1. For those who might not have been around in 1978, GM had serious problems with the camshafts. Improper heat treatment left the front ends soft. Of the 6 of us who bought trucks, everyone had to have their cam replaced before 13,000 miles except me. Mine lasted over 30,000 miles. For several reasons, I replaced it myself. When I took the intake manifold off, I could not get over how clean the engine was inside. It was as clean as drag racing engines we had torn down after just a couple of runs. A fluke you ask? Nope! The same friend that had convinced me to try the Mobil 1 used it in his 1978 van - also a 350 - and his camshaft lasted around 36,000 miles.

So yes, I am sold on synthetics. Besides the enhanced lubricity, synthetic oil flows much easier when cold, which (during start-up) is when the majority of engine wear occurs. As a side note, I do not sell oil, work for an oil company, or own any stock (I wish!) in an oil company. The sole reason I endorse synthetic oil is for the reasons stated above.

[8e3k0]

We have switched to Synthetics because of a higher compatability to our Summer to Winter temperatures which can equates to a differential 120 degrees F (winters at -40F and summers at +40F) . That non synthetic 15W-40 or 5W-40 weight just will not pour or lubricate your engine on start-up when its -40 F. Very common to use 0W-40 Synthetic now for cold temperatures and has proved sucessful in eliminating premature engine wear.

[RickW]

Have to agree with Tom S. My wife's Volvo S70 had 103k miles when the timing belt flew off and bent 14 valves. I did not have the time to fix myself so I let a mechanic friend do the work. When he got the head off he asked the last time I had the head off and rebuilt. I told him never. He could not believe that that motor had been sealed since the factory.

The Volvo came from the factory with Mobil 1. I have used nothing but Mobil 1. I only change the oil once a year. I do change oil filters every 5k and top off. I do the same on our 350Z but it only sees about 4~5k miles a year.

The F250 I change typically before every big trip. We take 1 or 2 big trips a year. 172,300 on the F250 and still 1k miles from home.

[Montana Sky]

I run dino and change every 3,000 miles...just a personal choice. After 135,000 miles the oil comes out looking as clean as it went in.

[Trailer Trash 2]

On my new dodge I am advised by the on board computer and the dealer that 7000 miles maximum depending on the type of driving I was doing (towing) my computer flaged me on the console at 6100 miles, "Oil Change due contact dealer". I believe this is due to the new smog ( EGR ) and the regen device. I believe that I will use regular oil, 1 for cost, synthetic oil has it's plus side but I dont think it will allow me to extend my oil changes on my 09 dodge.

[Tom S.]

quote:Originally posted by Montana Sky

I run dino and change every 3,000 miles...just a personal choice. After 135,000 miles the oil comes out looking as clean as it went in.

OK, you forced me into this.

In 1973, I bought a new K5 Blazer. I do my own work, and I changed the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. At the time, one of the top rated oils on the market was Valvoline LXD 10w 30. I use to buy this stuff from NAPA by the case (to get my discount). When the engine had 40,000+ miles on it, a friend gave me a set of aluminum valve covers. When I pulled the stock covers off, I was shocked! There was at least an inch of sludge build up on the tops of the heads! It was horrible. In an earlier post, I mentioned a friend suggest I use synthetic in my new 1978. It was because I had mentioned the experience with my 1973 to him that he made the suggestion.

As a side note, I have asked what causes an oil to sludge up an engine and have received a wide range of responses, but I have never heard of someone who has used synthetic having this problem. I do know that in a diesel engine, soot is a major cause for dirty oil, which is why I run a by-pass filter. Also, for what it's worth, several manufactures of high performance engines now recommend nothing but synthetic oil.

The debate on synthetic vs dino reminds me of the debate on K&N filters vs stock. For the short term, it will make no difference, but I buy my vehicles with the idea that I will own them for a long time, so I will do whatever I can to ensure they last.