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Old 04-26-2021, 08:39 AM   #21
Rexerito
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Jaboni

I have reached out to Jaboni and asked what they are sending with 2021 units. I took apart my 2021 this weekend and I have only one charge controller. I also asked about how many 300w panels it can support. I will let you know what I hear back.
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Old 04-26-2021, 10:23 AM   #22
Sharko
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Originally Posted by Rexerito View Post
I have reached out to Jaboni and asked what they are sending with 2021 units. I took apart my 2021 this weekend and I have only one charge controller. I also asked about how many 300w panels it can support. I will let you know what I hear back.
I'm in search of this answer as well. Please let us know when you hear. I have 1 - 265W panel and 30A controller. I would like to add another panel if this will help keep batteries charged while in storage.
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Old 04-27-2021, 05:11 PM   #23
djrich
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tames 14

Didn’t think I questioned anyone’s math. A 30A controller is about 500 watts of solar. My Super Solarflex came with 4 265 watt panels and 2 30A Jaboni controllers. I added 2 more 500 watt solar arrays and 2 Blue Sky 30A controllers. I’m real happy with Montana and Future Sales. Not sure about your question.
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Old 04-27-2021, 07:52 PM   #24
Sharko
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Solar Newbie

I Have a Montana 3830 with pre-installed 265W and 30A controller. 2- 6V 225Ah AGM batteries.
If i understand correctly a 10 gauge (used in install) wire allows MAX of 365W @ 12V.
2 questions:
First how hard is it to pull another wire?

Second, I believe i would need a 2nd controller, looking at Victron 50A/100V to run 2 - 350W in series.
The controller would be in parallel with my original.
Would this work?
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Old 04-27-2021, 10:13 PM   #25
ExPatNW
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Well we pick up our rig on Friday and I will look to see what solar controllers are installed. Given its a 12v (not 24v) system, which I think it is, 2 30Amp controllers is not enough to handle 1,200W from the panels. At 97% efficiency, getting full output 1,200W, I calculate a current to the battery of 80.83amps - so ~40amps per controller. From what I have read you normally spec above the max expected current, not below. I am sure Matt knows what he is doing, but I may end up having to upgrade the controllers... (Did Keystone switch the panels without considering the impact to the controllers - so was Matt even involved in the upgrade?).
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Old 04-29-2021, 02:02 PM   #26
66 Galaxie
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My .02 Don't forget to take into consideration that 300w of panel rating is not going to produce 300w of input to the charger unless the panels is pointed directly at the sun and the cell temperature is 77 degrees F. In my experience, panels mounted flat on the roof of the RV are good for about 85% of the rated wattage on a good cool day in the middle of summer when the sun is high. In winter, we usually see closer to 60% because the sun is low. I'm going from memory but in Northern Indiana I think we have to set them at 22.5 degrees in summer and 77.5 in the winter. I'm sure it's way less extreme in AZ. You should always try to "oversize" your panels to take advantage of low light and mitigate some of the efficiency loss with temperature. Remember, most panels lose .4-.5% efficiency for every degree above 25C. If the cell temp is 150 degrees F, the panel will lose 18% for heat alone. Combine that with the angle of the sun and the 300w can become 200w. Obviously, there are limits. Don't do this with a PWM charger or one that doesn't have a charger backoff feature and a decent heatsink.
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