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Old 04-19-2021, 07:22 PM   #121
BB_TX
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Originally Posted by 432bartman View Post
Interesting video. 40,000 lb. rated steel hitch towing about half that weight, and it was a single weld that failed. Glad nobody got hurt and it was at slow speeds. Looked like a gorgeous trailer and truck.
That doesn’t appear to be a weld that failed. Looks like the holes that would have a large pin thru them for side to side rocking pulled thru the bottom of the holes. The bottom of the holes is not where normal wear would occur. But there would likely be a force pulling upward on the pin (and bottom of the hole) on a stop.

It failed on a slow controlled stop.

Edit: googling found some interesting info. Apparently that is a known issue with those hitches. On starts and stops the pin “slaps” the top and bottom of the holes, eventually elongating them. And in this case pulled the bottom of the holes out!
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:02 PM   #122
Rod Spohn
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I use the Andersen hitch and since this looks like a thread with a lot of Andersen users I have a question.my hitch doesn’t stay lined up on the bed. When I install it, it lines up with the ribs in the bed. But it always ends up twisted/cocked a couple inches.
My question is- is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? It may be nothing but I feel the need to ask.
Thanks for your opinions
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:22 PM   #123
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I am not sure if Anderson still sells them, but my recollection is they sold plastic strips you mounted to the bottom of the Anderson base. They are thinner than the rib of the bed depth, and when screwed to the base fills some of the low part in the bed and will keep it from turning. Seemed like a good addition, and probably should have been a factory- included part located and installed by the truck owner as the low sections probably change depending on the truck.

I purchased the Ram bed rubber cover Matt, placed on my factory sprayed bedliner, and cut a hole where the goose ball mounts. The Anderson base grips the thick mat good enough to have never allowed the base to turn once properly torqued.

Allen
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Old 04-19-2021, 11:21 PM   #124
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Brad if you were going to be in an accident, say someone pulled out in front of you traveling 50 mph which would you rather have in the bed of your truck, an Andersen or a B&W? I think I know the answer to that. None of us plan on having a wreck but some of us is going to.
Lynwood
Lynwood, in the above scenario the hitch is the last thing I would worry about.

I never got in an accident, but twice in my 30k miles with the AUH I had an "oh crap, pound the brakes scenario" when on interstate at about 70mph and coming around a corner or over a hill to stopped traffic. (SLC is especially a bad place to go through). I never thought about my hitch during those moments, and I never thought about it afterward.

If I actually were in an accident there would be insurance for a lot more than the hitch. And, unless there are ones out there that I'm missing, I have never heard of an AUH failure where someone was hurt, or there was major damage (like that which would have totaled a rig).

There are far more bent tailgates and box rails from forgetting to close the jaws on a traditional 5th wheel than those damaged by an AUH. I hate to admit my stupidity in public, but I forgot to close the pin on my AUH and went a couple hours before I stopped and thought to check it. No damage. I would have had an insurance claim within a few feet by making that same mistake with a traditional hitch.

I just honestly don't get how I would feel better just because I had a couple hundred extra pounds of steel in the bed.

But, YMMV and I think it does

Brad
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Old 04-20-2021, 07:10 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Spohn View Post
I use the Andersen hitch and since this looks like a thread with a lot of Andersen users I have a question.my hitch doesn’t stay lined up on the bed. When I install it, it lines up with the ribs in the bed. But it always ends up twisted/cocked a couple inches.
My question is- is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? It may be nothing but I feel the need to ask.
Thanks for your opinions
Are you torquing the three bolts to spec and not just guessing?
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Old 04-20-2021, 10:54 AM   #126
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Originally Posted by kowbra View Post
Lynwood, in the above scenario the hitch is the last thing I would worry about.

I never got in an accident, but twice in my 30k miles with the AUH I had an "oh crap, pound the brakes scenario" when on interstate at about 70mph and coming around a corner or over a hill to stopped traffic. (SLC is especially a bad place to go through). I never thought about my hitch during those moments, and I never thought about it afterward.

If I actually were in an accident there would be insurance for a lot more than the hitch. And, unless there are ones out there that I'm missing, I have never heard of an AUH failure where someone was hurt, or there was major damage (like that which would have totaled a rig).

There are far more bent tailgates and box rails from forgetting to close the jaws on a traditional 5th wheel than those damaged by an AUH. I hate to admit my stupidity in public, but I forgot to close the pin on my AUH and went a couple hours before I stopped and thought to check it. No damage. I would have had an insurance claim within a few feet by making that same mistake with a traditional hitch.

I just honestly don't get how I would feel better just because I had a couple hundred extra pounds of steel in the bed.

But, YMMV and I think it does

Brad
I'm in no position to argue for or against the AUH other than saying it's not for me. We're full timers and I've seen more than I can count that seem to be working fine.

One of the things I like about our hitch (Ford branded 27.5K Reese) is the auto latch single jaw. You can hear it close with the windows up. The secondary safety of not being able to get the pin in unless it's fully latched is comforting too.

https://youtu.be/hrW7muWrykU?t=362
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Old 04-20-2021, 02:08 PM   #127
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Hey Rod, my AUH was also rotating in the bed first few times I used it, Anderson sells a rubber mat to put in bed under hitch, they also told me to torque top bolt to 70lbs, been fine since.
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Old 04-25-2021, 10:04 AM   #128
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I contacted MorRyde about their pin box, they told me I had to install a new thicker plate for the Andersen 5th wheel connection to keep any warranty. I have the new thicker plate to install and I will, but someone needs to be responsible for their products should something fail.
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Old 04-25-2021, 10:09 AM   #129
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Is this the part you installed?

https://www.amazon.com/MORryde-Inter.../dp/B005F1N1D2

This is what I found on Morryde's website


Towing with a Gooseneck or Anderson Ultimate Hitch?
Want the jerk-free, chuck free towing that comes with a MORryde Rubber Pin Box? The good news is you can use a MORryde Pin Box by simply adding a heavy-duty skid plate to it. The skid plate can be easily installed, with no welding and will provide the added strength needed for gooseneck connections.
OPTIONS :
Pull Rite Adapter Plate RPB77-001
Gooseneck/Andersen Hitch Adapter Kit RPB77-006


I have already purchased a Curt conventional hitch to replace my Anderson, but it is interesting to learn there are modifications MORryde has manufactured that I haven't heard of.

And this doesn't fix the Keystone / frame warranty issues.....


Allen
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Old 04-25-2021, 10:35 AM   #130
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this thread takes me back to the early days of mountain bikes. chromoly steel vs AL. AL was light. chromoly would flex, AL would not. AL bike frames had a "life" to them. seems the tubing would crack and break over time due to the rigidity.. and this could be the source of the dreaded frame flex.
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Old 04-25-2021, 12:18 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Spohn View Post
I use the Andersen hitch and since this looks like a thread with a lot of Andersen users I have a question.my hitch doesn’t stay lined up on the bed. When I install it, it lines up with the ribs in the bed. But it always ends up twisted/cocked a couple inches.
My question is- is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? It may be nothing but I feel the need to ask.
Thanks for your opinions
I have always used that heavy rubber mat that Anderson sells, and my base has never moved. Is your truck bed just paint or is it coated with Line-X? I could see if it's just smooth paint that the base could shift, but the Line-X grabs onto stuff.
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Old 04-25-2021, 03:48 PM   #132
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Yea, I had the Line-X, and hitch still "rotated in the bed, got the rubber matt from Anderson, and torqued top bolt to 70 ft lbs, ok now.
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Old 04-25-2021, 09:34 PM   #133
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New thicker plate for MorRyde pinbox.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hemiallen View Post
Is this the part you installed?

https://www.amazon.com/MORryde-Inter.../dp/B005F1N1D2

This is what I found on Morryde's website


Towing with a Gooseneck or Anderson Ultimate Hitch?
Want the jerk-free, chuck free towing that comes with a MORryde Rubber Pin Box? The good news is you can use a MORryde Pin Box by simply adding a heavy-duty skid plate to it. The skid plate can be easily installed, with no welding and will provide the added strength needed for gooseneck connections.
OPTIONS :
Pull Rite Adapter Plate RPB77-001
Gooseneck/Andersen Hitch Adapter Kit RPB77-006


I have already purchased a Curt conventional hitch to replace my Anderson, but it is interesting to learn there are modifications MORryde has manufactured that I haven't heard of.

And this doesn't fix the Keystone / frame warranty issues.....


Allen
Yes, that's what I ordered and will install in my 2015 Keystone Montana 3850FL. I have a 2018 F350 with the 6.75 ft bed, I had a B&W which I used in a 2012 F250. B&W wouldn't work in my 2018 with the puck system in my bed and the camper couldn't turn a sharp turn without hitting my cab. The Anderson hitch seemed to be the best answer for giving me more clearance when turning.
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Old 04-25-2021, 09:49 PM   #134
kowbra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hemiallen View Post
Is this the part you installed?

https://www.amazon.com/MORryde-Inter.../dp/B005F1N1D2

This is what I found on Morryde's website


Towing with a Gooseneck or Anderson Ultimate Hitch?
Want the jerk-free, chuck free towing that comes with a MORryde Rubber Pin Box? The good news is you can use a MORryde Pin Box by simply adding a heavy-duty skid plate to it. The skid plate can be easily installed, with no welding and will provide the added strength needed for gooseneck connections.
OPTIONS :
Pull Rite Adapter Plate RPB77-001
Gooseneck/Andersen Hitch Adapter Kit RPB77-006


I have already purchased a Curt conventional hitch to replace my Anderson, but it is interesting to learn there are modifications MORryde has manufactured that I haven't heard of.

And this doesn't fix the Keystone / frame warranty issues.....


Allen
Yes, that is the correct part #. In post #89 on this thread, I sent a link to the Anderson compatibility chart; same part referenced there.

I agree; that still likely won't be enough to satisfy Keystone/Lippert if there was a frame issue.
I've decided to (reluctantly) move on also.

Brad
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Old 04-26-2021, 09:19 AM   #135
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Originally Posted by N. Hall View Post
Yes, that's what I ordered and will install in my 2015 Keystone Montana 3850FL. I have a 2018 F350 with the 6.75 ft bed, I had a B&W which I used in a 2012 F250. B&W wouldn't work in my 2018 with the puck system in my bed and the camper couldn't turn a sharp turn without hitting my cab. The Anderson hitch seemed to be the best answer for giving me more clearance when turning.
Did you set the hitch head to a rearward position?
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Old 04-26-2021, 10:25 AM   #136
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Did you set the hitch head to a rearward position?
Yes I did, but my 2012 didn't have the Ford puck system. I had to buy the flip over B&M system and hitch, the one with the square post to lock the hitch into the bed. I ordered the new base for the puck system in my 2018 Ford, but after install I am a few inches closer to the cab of my truck. That's why I bought the Andersen system, heard and read a lot of good reviews on it. It also gave me plenty of space.
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