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Old 08-04-2020, 11:45 AM   #21
beeje
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Originally Posted by dfb View Post
We fill our gas tanks in our cars and truck to the filler top.. They don't split apart... I have had others that when we left after dumping the tank id fill the tank til it was up to the toilet and drain again. My apologies for disagreeing but "user error" is not something I would believe. My opinion is that they are not well made.. Am I the only one with Black tank problem.. The tank is held in place by a longitudinal sliding rail.. Remove 4 bolts and the rail separates from he tank.. Yes, no Bottom support... there is another manufacturer who make the same dimensions as the one used. However. Instead of a Flat top flange it has a 3 inch lip/ . There is not enough room for the 3 inch tall lip since the present tank butts up against the bottom of the flooring.. So it looks like the Rail would need to be dropped 3 inches....
I agree the tanks are pissed poorly made. But there has to be a reason why only a small percentage fail. The front two tanks have some support by the to see channels going from side to side under the tanks. However they are not touching the tanks when they are empty. I filled that Gap with Lumber above the coroplast between the tank and the C Channel.
 
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Old 08-04-2020, 11:49 AM   #22
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After I installed all new valterra valves I did a test of the tanks capacity using 5 gallon buckets of water.. I think the 48 gallon number is what was stated size of the tank. I stopped pouring 5 gallon buckets of water into the toilet when I reach 11 of them.

Supported or not the tanks will swell up quite a bit that's why I stated overfilling them is a potential cause of why some burst open.
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Old 08-04-2020, 11:54 AM   #23
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I am curious, when installing the new tank, you have to cut your own holes for the sewer and vent pipes?
How do you join/seal them to the tank?
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Old 08-04-2020, 11:59 AM   #24
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I am curious, when installing the new tank, you have to cut your own holes for the sewer and vent pipes?
How do you join/seal them to the tank?
The sewer 3 inch outlet is there as well as the tank level sensors.. The vent and intake need to be drilled out..
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Old 08-04-2020, 02:38 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by dfb View Post
thank you... this is the tank... I will contact the company...
Now is the time to replace those valves with new Valtera valves.
When installing the new tank you will have to glue a new valve attaching flange to the new tank. To make the new flange align to the old valve do it this way:


1) Slide with the old gray tank and the new tank towards the front of the trailer.
2) Install the new dump valve on the gray tank drain and then slide the gray tank back to complete the four bolt connection.
3) Install the new dump valve on the old drain line with the new flange and bolt it up with the four bolts.
4) Slide the new tank as far forward as possible, put a huge slather of ABS glue on the male slip fitting on the tank and then with help slide the tank rearward into the flange. Bob's your uncle, all done.

You can't align the valve bolts that are on the old drain line to the new flange fitting without doing it this way. If you glue the new flange fitting onto the new tank without aligning it you will say bad words and quit.

You do not need a rubber hub to make this part of the installation.

To install the new fittings into the tank buy the rubber 3" and 1 1/2" fittings from ICON. Cut off your old 3" and 1 1/2" lines going into the old tank close to the floor of the garage. And then remove the old tank.

Cut the old lines about half way down and save them. Install the new rubber fittings where they should go in the new tank. With the new tank in place and the drain valves hooked up as above, you can silicone the old 3" and 1 1/2" pieces into the tank rubber fittings and use rubber hub fittings to reconnect the lines.
Easy peasy. Just did this las Saturday.
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Old 08-04-2020, 02:50 PM   #26
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Rubber fittings:
https://www.icondirect.com/holding-t...ubber-grommet/
https://www.icondirect.com/holding-t...ubber-grommet/

Install with silicone in the groove on the outside.
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Old 08-04-2020, 03:25 PM   #27
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Thanks had never seen fittings like that before. Good to know for future reference
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Old 08-04-2020, 09:19 PM   #28
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[QUOTE=dfb;1193047]
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They tried to blame you for filling it above half? I dont' see where it states only to fill the tank to one half.. The Brochure states it's a 50 gallon tank.. In reality it is a 48 gallon... So, would I get two I inch steel straps also??
We filled the third tank at the dealer's shop right in front of them. It failed before it was full. That's when they said what they did to make it look like our fault. Then we took it to an RV repair shop who fixed it properly. My buddy went with the original style glued two piece but it is maintaining so far. They moved the brackets the tank hangs on closer to the body of the tank. It still isn't installed how the tank manufacturer says but...

Supporting the tank from the bottom helps greatly. When the tank fills, it sags, and that is what pulls the top and bottom of the two piece tanks apart. Straps or angle iron will help. Just depends on how each rig is made.
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Old 08-05-2020, 12:18 AM   #29
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I installed 2- 2x2 angle on the outside of my coroplast attached to the frame on each side with 2 self-tapping bolts on each side of the angle along with the channel bracing that was there. I installed treated 2x4 and 1x4's as needed to fill the gap between the angle iron and tank. I drilled small holes in the metal bracing and used small wood screws to screw the bracing to the wood fillers. If you look under my rv you can see the bracing and lumber that is there to support the tanks. Some install the wood against the tank with the coroplast on the outside but mine is the opposite. If i need to remove the coroplast then the wood and metal bracing is not hard to remove but i have new valtera valves and metal pull rods so hopefully i won't ever have to remove the coroplast but i can change the valves if needed without removing the coroplast where my braces are. Just be sure if you install bracing that your tanks are empty and install the lumber snug against the tanks but not to tight that you lift the tanks up off the strip they are sitting as this is easy to do with tanks empty. You may need to drop the coroplast in spots on the side so as to know and mark where you want your bracing. Bracing the tanks will take a lot of worry out wondering when the tanks are going to start leaking.
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:37 AM   #30
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Picked up the repaired tank yesterday... 256.00!!!~ to fix.. They could not weld it so they used a mat and ABC cement... Will be installing today. A new Tank was about 450 including shipping.. Maybe I have should have gone new... We will see...Love to post pics.. But how do I do that.. I hit the scene pic and it wants a URL....
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:41 AM   #31
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Who'd you get to repair it?
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:43 AM   #32
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Who'd you get to repair it?
Place called PROTECH... If I knew it would be 260, id get a new one...
Or done it myself...
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:45 AM   #33
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Are they local? I haven't heard of them
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:46 AM   #34
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Moundhouse
On alfanso Where the RV dealer is.... next to the hi way...
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:48 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by prndl View Post
Now is the time to replace those valves with new Valtera valves.
When installing the new tank you will have to glue a new valve attaching flange to the new tank. To make the new flange align to the old valve do it this way:


1) Slide with the old gray tank and the new tank towards the front of the trailer.
2) Install the new dump valve on the gray tank drain and then slide the gray tank back to complete the four bolt connection.
3) Install the new dump valve on the old drain line with the new flange and bolt it up with the four bolts.
4) Slide the new tank as far forward as possible, put a huge slather of ABS glue on the male slip fitting on the tank and then with help slide the tank rearward into the flange. Bob's your uncle, all done.

You can't align the valve bolts that are on the old drain line to the new flange fitting without doing it this way. If you glue the new flange fitting onto the new tank without aligning it you will say bad words and quit.

You do not need a rubber hub to make this part of the installation.

To install the new fittings into the tank buy the rubber 3" and 1 1/2" fittings from ICON. Cut off your old 3" and 1 1/2" lines going into the old tank close to the floor of the garage. And then remove the old tank.

Cut the old lines about half way down and save them. Install the new rubber fittings where they should go in the new tank. With the new tank in place and the drain valves hooked up as above, you can silicone the old 3" and 1 1/2" pieces into the tank rubber fittings and use rubber hub fittings to reconnect the lines.
Easy peasy. Just did this las Saturday.
Im going to try to use the rubber boots on the down and vent pipe.... In case I have to remove it again..
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:53 AM   #36
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Gotcha. I only asked because I need to replace the black cable (it was rusted and locked up Sunday when I went to dump) on the tank and fix the outlet plumbing from the tank. It actually runs uphill before it meets up with the rear grey tank! I have to raise the front jacks to the max to get it to drain the bottom of the front tanks. Hopefully it's just realigning after the valves and doesn't affect the tank fittings.
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:54 AM   #37
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Gotcha. I only asked because I need to replace the black cable (it was rusted and locked up Sunday when I went to dump) on the tank and fix the outlet plumbing from the tank. It actually runs uphill before it meets up with the rear grey tank! I have to raise the front jacks to the max to get it to drain the bottom of the front tanks. Hopefully it's just realigning after the valves and doesn't affect the tank fittings.
They are real nice folks...
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Old 08-05-2020, 11:00 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by jetskier View Post
Gotcha. I only asked because I need to replace the black cable (it was rusted and locked up Sunday when I went to dump) on the tank and fix the outlet plumbing from the tank. It actually runs uphill before it meets up with the rear grey tank! I have to raise the front jacks to the max to get it to drain the bottom of the front tanks. Hopefully it's just realigning after the valves and doesn't affect the tank fittings.
They are real nice folks...
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Old 08-05-2020, 11:04 AM   #39
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some pics..... I have been using computers since the 80s... For some reason I cannot share pics...Thank you carl and Susan.. I did the advanced, manage attachment... It bring up a window to upload and format.. Choose file.. I hit Photos and it wont open, so I hit photos app.. the pic comes up but wont upload... Must be an issue with IOS.... Ill keep trying.. thanks../Users/danbolduc/Desktop/(No Subject).eml
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Old 08-05-2020, 03:48 PM   #40
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it seems the repaired tank has a slow leak at the drain... Now the slide messed up again and the gears broke a tooth,,,,, Im getting a bottle...
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