Lesson $learned Reese 18k Signature Hitch

[RCN.Stoker]

The flag was lined up but the handle was out or angled just enough for the pin to go in to the side of the lower tab that is welded to the hitch. I tried to get it to work without the trailer pin engaged but the handle etc worked correctly. I think it is caused by the trailer pin being just off center, enough to keep the jaws from closing completely and the handle not fully in/retracted but not enough to allow the flag to block the hole in the handle. It only takes the handle to be out about 1/2 inch because the tab is too small and triangular in shape with the blunted point facing out. When I hitched the second time, after the drop, all worked properly. We have a fifth at work and when I find the time I am going do some experimenting to see if I can duplicate the problem. In the meantime I have changed out the locking pin for a bolt with a castellated nut and a safety pin type lock. I will insert from the bottom to ensure it goes through both holes.

[7.3Ford]

quote:Originally posted by Mrs. CountryGuy

Really, it says this??

2. Trailer landing gear still resting on firm ground and supporting trailer weight and,

OKKKKKKK,gotta say tho, that is NOT the way CountryGuy and I do our pull tests.

You guys can burn me to the ground, but, that just does NOT make sense to me. To me, that is a sure fire recipe for a set of bent legs.

I'll go duck into my fireproof jeans and t-shirts, anyone got a fire hat I can borrow??

Not the way I have done it either, but I guess you will never drop the 5er on the truck following their procedure.

After reading all the post, I order a Blue Ox BedSaver from AdventureRV.NET, $203.25 with shipping and insurance. I figure it is just a matter of time before I dump her on the truck.

[PSFORD99]

[quote]Originally posted by RCN.Stoker

The flag was lined up but the handle was out or angled just enough for the pin to go in to the side of the lower tab that is welded to the hitch. I tried to get it to work without the trailer pin engaged but the handle etc worked correctly. I think it is caused by the trailer pin being just off center, enough to keep the jaws from closing completely and the handle not fully in/retracted but not enough to allow the flag to block the hole in the handle. It only takes the handle to be out about 1/2 inch because the tab is too small and triangular in shape with the blunted point facing out. When I hitched the second time, after the drop, all worked properly. We have a fifth at work and when I find the time I am going do some experimenting to see if I can duplicate the problem. In the meantime I have changed out the locking pin for a bolt with a castellated nut and a safety pin type lock. I will insert from the bottom to ensure it goes through both holes. Quote



Wow, what a thread everything from a recall, to defective , to bad design, to newbies should know about it, so to stay away from purchasing it. Pretty much covered everything.

Sorry to hear about you dropping your fifth wheel on your truck,it happens to all brands of hitches has nothing to do with the hitch, its how one hitches, and how to use the hitch. I have the same hitch for nearly three years, and it works very well, I would recommend it to newbies or anyone, I have known from day one you have two holes that need to be in alignment. I back in hitch has to be open unlike some that will open and then close as long as the safety latch is open. The handle slams shut I look to see if the holes are in alignment which to date has been the case, BUT I check anyway insert the safety pin, do the pull test, and no I don't leave my landing gear down, I bring them up until I see them leave the ground probably no more than an inch.


Again sorry to hear about the drop, but sorry it was not the hitch,and I will leave it at that.

[pvcoach]

I have this same hitch and like it quite well. I did have some concerns about not capturing the kingpin correctly so I painted a white vertical stripe on the rear of the jaw. After I hook-up, I visually verify the jaw is completely closed by checking that the white stripe is centered on the king pin. It gives me peace of mind.

[PSFORD99]

quote:Originally posted by pvcoach

I have this same hitch and like it quite well. I did have some concerns about not capturing the kingpin correctly so I painted a white vertical stripe on the rear of the jaw. After I hook-up, I visually verify the jaw is completely closed by checking that the white stripe is centered on the king pin. It gives me peace of mind.

Many do the white painting on all types ,and brands of hitches, not a bad thing to do. Bottom line here is knowing your hitch ,and how it works, and how to use it properly.

The sad truth here is, its not the hitch ,but the guy hooking up. Bedsaver or no bedsaver, attention to detail would prevent a lot of drops, but hey we are human ,and prone to mistakes. In all of the drops I have read about in this and other forum's only one was from a faulty hitch, the rest have been human error.

[Illini Trekker]

Thanks RCN.Stoker for eating a little 'humble pie' and telling us about your mishap. I too has this hitch and like its style. I will now double check the flag I also have the hitch and pin painted white with a black line to mark when all is lined up. With your warning looks like I need to paint the handle to see if as moved and the way in after hitching up. Thanks

[jjackflash]

Has anyone installed a bedsaver on a signature hitch?
I've read where Blue Ox makes this statement. (Unless otherwise specified, the bedsaver will NOT
work with aftermarket pin boxes. See fit list.)
http://www.blueox.us/PDFS/BXR4105.pdf
I would like to know if my Mor/ryde pin box would work with this bedsaver.
Jack

[7.3Ford]

quote:Originally posted by jjackflash

Has anyone installed a bedsaver on a signature hitch?
I've read where Blue Ox makes this statement. (Unless otherwise specified, the bedsaver will NOT
work with aftermarket pin boxes. See fit list.)
http://www.blueox.us/PDFS/BXR4105.pdf
I would like to know if my Mor/ryde pin box would work with this bedsaver.
Jack

Ya I saw that too, but Mor/Ryde pin box is a factory option, and others in the forum have both Mor/Ryde pin box and Bed Saver in there tag lines, so I am assuming it is OK. I will find out this weekend, will be installing a Bed Saver on my truck. I installed Mor/Ryde pin box last weekend.

[jjackflash]

I just order a bedsaver for my Signature hitch.
Before I placed an order,I called Blue Ox and talked to Linda in CS and she verified that it would work with all pin boxes.
John,please let me know if you have any problem with the installation.By the way John,thanks for the heads up on the price at AdventureRv.net....Jack

[jpkelpe]

Yes, we have Reese Hitch, Blue Ox bed
saver and Mor/Ryde pin box--works well

[c214dick]

I believe we have the same hitch which we bought last year. It took us quite awhile to learn how to hook up properly. If we raise the trailer too high the flag will display but we will not be hitched properly.

According to the instructions the bottom of the pin box should be about an inch below the hitch skid plate. This forces the bin box up and the pin will slide into the hitch properly. I also back in using a "little" force to insure closure. We also visually check to make sure the pin is completely enclosed and the handle is fully in before inserting the pin. With our older jaw type hitch we did not have to do that.

[jjackflash]

When I hitch up I always line the pin to the point when I back into the pin I'm actually picking the trailer up off the ground,this way you're sure not to high pin and at the same time you now have the legs about 2 inches off the ground for a brake tug test. This has worked for me over twenty five years.
Jack

[washley1]

Let me add one more possibility. If you hitch up, and put the safety pin in, before you retract the legs and do the pull test, could you not give a BIG tug on the handle and make sure it is securely latched? Seems to me that if the safety pin is not in the correct hole, the handle would pull out, and release the king pin. As long as the handle won't pull it should be solid. Or am I missing something?

[RCN.Stoker]

Thanks for all the replies and input, even "It isn't the hitch but the hitcher". Good thing it wasn't a hook . I made a mistake that I won't make again and I hope my admission and $pain will help others. The MOC probably is the best trailer forum on the net.

[BB_TX]

The thing I like about my Pullrite Super 5th hitch is the positive latching mechanism. The rotating jaw that wraps around the pin is geared to the handle. When the handle slams in, the jaw is completely surrounding the pin and the handle has a catch on it that holds it there. You must lift the handle to pull it out. When it is in, you know that the jaw has securely wrapped around the pin.
The only way to fail a pull test would be if you high hitched. And I always make sure the pin box plate is a little below the hitch plate so that the pin box plate rides up the hitch plate when I back in. I still do a pull test (with the legs down and the chocks in place) just for peace of mind.

[Rondo]

I've got the Reese Slider and the Blue Ox Bedsaver! I do as many have said in this thread. I put the pin a little below the hitch plate thus when I slide the pin into the hitch it lifts the Monte just enough to take it off the ground and I can hear the locking pin slam into position! I have the wheels on the Monte chocked and do a pull test.

I have done a test (on purpose) with the locking jaws not wrapped around the pin just to see if the Bedsaver actually works. I did it slow on a tug test and the pin slipped out and dropped into the Bedsaver just like it is designed to do. I know, there are those of you that are saying "What the h--l was he thinking?!!?"but I did it very slowly and had someone watching as I did it! I have my Bedsaver set only about 1-2" or so below the hitch height. I also had the tailgate down "just incase" but as said "It worked like a champ!"

I always do the tug test with the chocks in place on the Monte, raise the legs about 1/2" off the ground and the trailer brakes set at about 4.5 on my OEM unit in the TV.

We have Blue Ox coming to the Central Plains Rally next week and I will ask them if they have had any problems with the Reese Signature hitch at all or if they have any "special" Bedsaver for that particular hitch. I do know that they make different Bedsavers for different hitches. I have been in contact with Blue Ox for over two months now and the one thing they did want me to find out was what type of hitches were coming to the Rally, so they could bring an ample supply of Bedsavers for any hitch that may come to the Rally. They will have techs at the Rally if anyone wants to purchase a Bedsaver and the techs will install it for FREE! I trust these people and I've talked to Dave McNair (Wagonmaster for the Fall Rally) about getting Blue Ox to come to that Rally. I'll be talking to them at our Rally and try to talk them into coming. Hopefully, they will and anyone wanting to buy a Bedsaver there can and hopefully get it installed for FREE there also! I'll try and let everyone know what they have to say and etc. If they decide to come I guess Dave will have to make a space on the program for them. Dave, if you are reading this I'll PM or email you direct on what I find out!

[RCN.Stoker]

Just to update. I had the lower tab that is welded to the skid plate assembly increased in length and width. It is now impossible to put the locking pin through the hole in the handle unless the hole in the lower tab is aligned and the the jaws therefore fully closed. Using a dial gauge to measure I discovered that the jaw only had to be open by about 1/8th of an inch for the handle to not fully retract/close and the pin could be inserted straight in but miss the lower tab completely. I will be sending my finding to the Road Safety Division of Transport Canada. Notwithstanding I should have checked, a simple modification has eliminated a risk that may have serious consequences. Thanks again for all the positive support. Glad I joined this community.

[oscarj]

I am sorry you had the drop and thanks for posting your experience. Remember everyone is safe and it is just money. I busted my back window on my shortbed before I got the airborne sidewinder. My experience so far is these mishaps make great stories later and add to the adventure. To add to the discussion I don't do the pull test. I have the 16 K hitch and I have painted red on my claws and a mark on the pin. On the plate I have placed tape to show I have achieved the correct depth before closing the claws. I visually inspect the pin after I lock the arm and verify the mark on pin is just above the closed claws to make sure all are aligned and proper and then raise the legs and store the chocks and go. It seems fullproof to me. If I high hitch I won't see the mark in the correct place on the pin.

[jjackflash]

Here's an interesting video on the Signature hitch!
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-demo_Draw...ies_40847.aspx
Jack

[c214dick]

Thanks for the link. It always helps to see how and hear it explained rather than trying to figure it out from the instruction manual. Maybe I can figure out why my arm does not retract and stay in position properly.