Riding nose high

[fulltilt]

Hi, I went through this a few years ago with a new 3500 Ram. I use the Superglide hitch, & have done so on 3 different 5th wheels & two trucks. The hitch adapter that I used was a Curt. It was the thinnest available, & allows me to close my hard folding Bak Flip F1 tonneau when I am unhitched. I removed the Morryde pin box, never liked it...always felt like the trailer waddled behind me. LOL ! I use a standard pin box. I have 6" of top bedrail clearance. That solved my hitch issue.

[Mwebb61]

Originally Posted by Sr. Oso

As I posted earlier, I finally spoke with someone at Pullrite that gave me direction instead of saying "it can't be done". I have a #2700 ISR superglide. This person told me to look at Curt, Reese, and mopar ISR compatible rails that mount using the puck system. I found this one, https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...ails=.questins, on eTrailer after repeated calls and googling. According to the literature, it has a height of 2" versus the Pullrite rails of 3 1/2" and will work with the #2700 hitch.
In my situation, raising the pin box and using this Reese rail adapter will get me very close to my desired change of 5".

Thank you ! that was what I was trying to find out. if I can use a different rail thats smaller. Il look into that. Do you think I can maybe switch the rails to a slimmer ISR rail like you mentioned and use a diffrent pinbox to get 3" lower ?

[Sr. Oso]

Originally Posted by Mwebb61

Thank you ! that was what I was trying to find out. if I can use a different rail thats smaller. Il look into that. Do you think I can maybe switch the rails to a slimmer ISR rail like you mentioned and use a diffrent pinbox to get 3" lower ?

I honestly don’t know about changing the pin box because I haven’t studied that part of the total equation. I imagine you’d have to take all the measurements on your rig and start comparing. I have found that eTrailer is a good resource for information. I know you’ll gain something but swapping out the PullRite rail for either the Curt or Reese.
I am going to take a 2’ level that I keep in my pass through and measure from the top of the hitch plate to the bed. Then, I’ll subtract the height of the PullRite rail that attaches to the pucks in the bed. To that number I’ll add the 2” of the other ISR rail (Curt or Reese).
The main thing to remember is the height between the bottom of the nose/overhang and the bed rails…can’t really go much lower than 6”

[fulltilt]

Hi I have the Superglide Traditional Model#4400, which from bottom to top of hitch plate is 15.5" high. The Pullrite adapter kit that I used was Model#4409. You can see from the pictures that my hitch plate with bungees attached to keep it level, is actually 1" below the tonneau. I tried to find the Curt model # for you on their Website, but couldn't find it. If you need it specifically, I will get that for you from the adapter itself. The picture of the pin box shows that it is in it's highest position. If you need those dimensions, I can get those for you. Now once I completed the hitch end of the truck, my trailer was still 5" low at the trailer rear bumper. I considered building a sub-frame out of 2" hitch stock & adding 2" blocks, but the Lippert Center Point air bag system intrigued me, & my Morryde rubber spring equalizers were worn out so I went that route. The air bag equalizers lifted the trailer 2", I added 1" spacer blocks under the springs, then when hitched I run the truck in the alternate height position, these 3 things brought the trailer closer to level by 4", now I am 1" low, which isn't noticeable.

[fulltilt]

You weren't looking for this, but this is what I did to level the trailer front to back. There are cheaper ways, but I chose this route, besides the height issue, I have flexibility now to add air to the heavy side [kitchen, furnace, hot water tank, etc.] I run about 10# more air pressure on that side [60#]

[Sr. Oso]

That’s impressive and way beyond my mechanical aptitude