How to blow out water pipes?

[nickandmarilyn]

Based on my last question re: cold weather and running the furnace, it appears that I should consider draining the system and blowing out the water with air. I have a compressor but have no idea what to do to blow out the water. Where do you start, at the fresh water in? Do you leave the faucets open or closed? etc. Thanks to all for helping me during my first three days ever doing this.

[racerjoe]

You can get an adaptor that screws onto your city water connection outside that is just like an valve stem . I wouldn't put more than 30-35 psi in the system, open your furthest valve and work you way back. you will need two people,one to put air into the system,while the other turns on the faucets. That should work fine until the weather warms up. Also,it probebly would not hurt to open the bottom drain caps under the trailer and dump out any leftover that the air could not get.

[Waynem]

Nick,
Drain all the water first from the holding tank and hot water heater. For the heater, remove the anode to drain. I bought an adapter at the RV Dealer, all it it is, is a male hose end with an air fitting on it. I set my pressure to 20# or about.(I've heard you can go up to 50, but I just wanted to be safe the first time) I had DW inside and asked her to turn on a faucet and would send 30# through until she had nothing but air. Had her do that to all faucets. While standing at the control center I opened the two drain valves one at a time and forced air through them. I opened the fresh water drain and forced air through again.

Then, one more time I had all faucets open at the same time and blew compressed air again and then the two drain valves. Again the fresh water.

If I remember correctly, I did this about 3 times and no water with the exception of a small spurt came out. the whole process took 15 to 20 minutes or less with the exception of draining the heater and fresh water tank.

Personally, I think this method is easier than the pink stuff. When you get ready to use the Hanna, just put water in it. Of course, you should use the bleach process again to sanitize the system.

Good luck

[Emmel]

Nick, at the fresh water(city) hookup, you need a screw in air valve. This allows you to pressurize the system and blow out the lines. CAUTION! Make sure your air compressor is set at 40psi or a little lower. Close all faucets, pressurize, open one at a time till you get only air coming out. Repeat till no water comes out any lines and don't forget the outside shower if you have one.
I forgot to ask, is there any antifreeze in the lines? If there is, you may want to wait till spring. If the weather is cold enough, you may want to run RV antifreeze thru the lines to reassure yourself the water is all out!

[kdeiss]

Do not forget the outside shower if you have and Washer if you have. I have a adapter that will screw on the schrader valve and it makes it a one man job.I recomend using the pink stuff over the winter keeps washers and seals from drying out and insure just in case you may have water setting in a low point

[waldo238]

Also you will need to put some pink stuff in the drain traps, because there will be some water in there as well.

[MacDR50]

Ditto on still putting some RV plumbing anti-freeze into system. I spliced a permanent adapter pick-up with a two way cock into the pump supply line. I had my MH blown one year, drained the tanks and water heater and put anti-freeze in traps. Next spring I had a split in a PEX connector. I figure the small amount of water left on the inside of lines drained to this low point and froze. I can't swear that this was the cause but since then have been "Pink".

[rogue]

Here is the process that I use.
Drain -fresh water tank, hot water tank, open low point drains
Using the air pressure connection in the city water connection, 30-40# air and open each faucet one at a time until only air comes out, also do the toilet.
Turn on your water pump, to make sure you get the water out if it.
Switch the City Water valve to fresh tank fill and blow air through it until the fresh water tank drain is cleared.
Donot have washer/dryer, but do not forget this connection.
Repeat air and faucets/toilet one last time,
Connect the Air to the flush connection and run air thru it.
Close up hot water heater, fresh water drain, and low point drains, and add anti freeze to the drains, Kitchen, bath, wash basin, toilet, and washer if it has a trap.

That should about cover it.
On EDIT, forgot the outside shower both hot and cold water valves.

[sreigle]

I agree with those who say don't use too much pressure. I finally settle on 30 to 40 as the max. If you use too much pressure you'll blow the o-ring in the city water inlet one-way-valve out of place. You'll know that happened next time you use the water pump and water shoots out the city water inlet.

Some walmarts have the air adapter in the RV section. RV Dealers should have it, for sure.

Here is what you are looking for. The black cover just covers up the air valvestem.

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...=4410&src=SRQB

[nickandmarilyn]

Thanks all. I THINK I can, I THINK I can do it.
Nick

[H. John Kohl]

Nick and Marilyn,
You might look at MOCTAP and see if a member is close by your location. They may be willing to observer your first winterization as back up. Link to MOCTAP and MOC Mentor forum/instructions.
Good luck,
cheers,