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Old 10-30-2013, 10:19 AM   #1
jimmy2
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replacement of dump vavles

if you ever replace the valave on you 3400rl this is not a job for the faint of hart and all the vedios out there will not help you i will post some pic on what you need to and get you just can not pull the old ones out well that is not true you can pull the old ones but you will never get them back in as plumer for over 27 years keystone had there heads in the air when they put them in i guess they were think that you will never need to remove them
 
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:25 AM   #2
Jay Bird
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I have never had to do this but you never know. The pics will be appreciated in case I do have to replace valves.
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Old 10-30-2013, 12:30 PM   #3
Rondo
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George-- You got a whole new warranty to work off of for any problems. Ain't that nice!
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:48 PM   #4
Bill-N-Donna
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M.O.C. #7110

On our first Montana I pulled out a valve and the way they are designed on that model (2001) you could not re-fit them without a major undertaking. I took it to the dealer to finish the job. Way too big of a job to want to tackle myself.
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Old 10-31-2013, 05:10 AM   #5
psomers
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I have done mine since returning from rally. Valve got impossible to pull or push closed. Last stop before home I really ran the flusher. At home I dumped 4 gallons of water down toilet and drained into bucket for 4 straight days. The job is not that hard. The joint has to be spread as the valve seals go into both sides of connections. Common sense says don't be directly under valve when the 4 bolts are loosened. I had a catch pan and less than a pint ran out.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:09 AM   #6
bigskyjimmy
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Mine has not been closing properly for a while now but I do not want to tackle that job I just put a extra valve on the end of the pipe and call it good
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:28 AM   #7
Art-n-Marge
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jimmy2... you are being nice that their heads were "in the air". You know that their heads were in another darker, tighter place, considering so many screwups in these rigs where we just wonder that there was no thinking.
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:47 AM   #8
Irlpguy
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I had a problem with my black water valve as well, I dropped the belly cover and removed both the black water and one gray water valve. They are not easy to line up when putting them back together because the drains are not always bang on and you have the added pull cable to make it more difficult. The two gaskets fit in the two halves of the valve and "must" be properly seated or the blade will not seal or open and close properly.

My gray water one did not line up properly and I had to take the bolts back out and redo it.

Not a great deal of room under there to work, but I have had a lot worse jobs and really if you clean and flush properly that is not a big issue.

Like Jimmy, I now use a valve on the end of the drain as well, just in case it happens again.

Good luck with the project.

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Old 10-31-2013, 09:52 AM   #9
rohrmann
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We had to have the black valve and both of the flange fittings replaced in July. The upper and lower curb side corners of both flanges off the tank and the corners of the valve broke out causing a bad leak. I guess there is so little flex in that assembly tied in with the gray tank that the stress of driving down the road caused it to fail. CW in Idaho made the repair, and I haven't had a need to see how they fixed it. Hope they put a flex coupling in there.
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Old 10-31-2013, 11:50 AM   #10
Jay Bird
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Rondo you are right warranty, warranty. But it will be nice to know later.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:34 AM   #11
Wheelhouse
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When I replaced the seals of my blackwater valve, I cut 2 access openings on the belly floor above the valves. On the black tank line, I cut off about 1/4" section between the valve and tank to remove the flange. Then used a rubber coupling to connect the two sections. *Put the rubber coupling on the pipe first before attaching the flange. Now slide the coupling and use the wire straps to seal the pipe. Special note: I found this easier, because I could stand up doing the work as opposed to laying on my back waiting for a drop to drip (ugly thought). Also, your tools are in front of you on the belly flor and not scattered around you reaching up in a confined space. Good luck.
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Old 11-28-2013, 04:17 PM   #12
jackel1959
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We had a problem this summer while about half way into our 10 day vacation in Oregon. The black tank valve would not close all the way and was allowing "liquid" to pass. I tried to devise a work-around until we got home and could get it in for repair, but came to the conclusion that liquid would continue to leak out of the tank and leave solid "stuff" in there which could cause more of a problem. I opened the black valve and drained and flushed the tank thoroughly or so I thought, (see below).

So in the 100* heat, I donned my coveralls and crawled under the rig, dropped the belly pan gaining access to the black tank valve assembly. After much contemplation I loosened the 4 nuts and bolts holding the gate valve assembly and some really nasty "stuff" began leaking down in my direction. Fortunately I had a bucket to catch it which ended up being about 2 gallons worth. A word to the wise.....when you think these tanks are empty THEY ARE NOT!!!! Then to make matters worse, I dropped my ratchet into the bucket of "stuff". I fished it out and rinsed it off (this should keep many of you from borrowing my tools in the future or wanting to shake my hand).

But seriously, what I did find was a piece of toilet paper that had gotten folded over somehow and then jammed between the gate and the groove in the opening. I cleared that and was able to get the valve back together with no issues. It has been working great ever since.

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