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Old 03-01-2010, 02:15 AM   #21
Tom S.
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Steve, grab a magic marker and coat the shaft so no bare metal shows. Then slide the crank on until it stops. Tap it a little with your hand or a small hammer and then remove it. Now look for a shiny spot(s), which will indicate where the high spot is that is keeping the crank from going on all the way. File the high spot and repeat the magic maker step. When you are done, give the shaft a light coat of grease to keep it from rusting where you filed it.
 
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:46 AM   #22
sreigle
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Tom, good idea. The crank is painted black but maybe I could use chalk or something else that contrasts.

Bob, thanks. No micrometer here, unfortunately. But I may rig up something like you suggest.

I hesitate to cut off the end of the crank. I'd have to cut enough that I'm not sure there'd be enough left to avoid affecting stability of the cranking mechanism during vigorous cranking. And most of you already know I can be vigorously cranky.
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:52 AM   #23
H. John Kohl
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I took a 9/16 deep socket and cut two notches in the end to allow the cross part to slide in. Then once the pressure was off the legs I was able to raise them with an electric drill. I used my Dremmel tool. It goes with me every were.
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:08 AM   #24
exav8tr
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I bet that's a nice Dremel set-up John!!!! They really are worth the money one spends on them, right? lol
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:54 PM   #25
MIMF
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OMG! You guys are a bunch of cranky old geezers!!

Bob and Tom, you two sound like tool and die builders.
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:04 PM   #26
sreigle
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John, I have a dremel here and I probably have an extra deep well 9/16" socket. Or can easily get one. I am not sure I have a dremel bit that will cut the notches in the socket, though, but I bet I could find one somewhere. Good idea. Thanks.
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