Locate inverter & solar controller

[jswharton]

Phase 1 is installing an inverter next week and would like opinions on the best place to locate.

The equipment, magnum 2012, tristar 45, & 600ah of lifeline batteries.

the choices are to locate in the front compartment or the basement. The front compartment is not temperature controlled, no generator, and has several slotted venting through the metal floor. The concern here is that dust and dampness can enter this compartment and could that have negative impact on the inverter & solar controller.

The basement and front compartment share a common wall so wiring distance in not an issue. The basement is temp controlled and has a tighter seal. Does locating the equipment here improve performance or longenivty. Is there any benefits to locating the shunt and fuse here vs the front compartment.

it would also be more convenient to locate the sub- panel in the basement. I would loose space by locating in the basement but it is not critical

any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks. Scott

[Ozz]

Scott,
I like the bulkhead in the 'basement', you don't want it in with the batteries, for various safety reasons.
Here is where I put my Magnum:
https://picasaweb.google.com/Jimsue13/MagnumInverterInstall?authuser=0&feat=directlink

[2Wanderers]

Left my batteries in the front compartment where they are vented. Installed inverter and its fuse on basement wall (basement side) just behind the batteries to minimize DC cable run. Suggest a pure sine wave inverter for any solid state electronics. I installed the solar controller in the blank panel below the refrigerator and ran the solar wiring down through the back of the refrigerator vent. Ran the solar controller output to a 20 amp fuse (unused) on the fuse panel next to the empty compartment under the refrigerator. Ran the inverter remote switch from next to the solar controller back to the inverter. Ran two output lines (110v AC) from inverter to a tri-receptacle outlet for the TV, satellite box, and DVR; and the other line to a bedroom outlet on the floor for the electric blanket (Electric blanket uses a lot less battery than the furnace). The two batteries are each 200 minutes at 20 amps and the solar is 145 watts. Tried to keep the costs contained. Have a 2000 watt generator in the bed of the truck if we need more than 600 watts. It works for us.

[Gkerlin]

Better to mount it in the basement unless you have AGM batteries which you do.. Lead acid batteries give off Hydrogen (extremely explosive) and corrosive gasses. So you run fire risks and damage from corrosion in the front compartment.

AGM's don't give off those gasses so if you stay with the Lifelines then its no problem co-locating them with the Electronics. You could also move the AGMs to the basement if you wished. Since you are going with Lifelines (great batteries BTW - used them for years on my sailboat) you have options.

I wouldn't worry about those small cuts in the floor of the front compartment. You can put a piece of 1/4" ply or some sheet plastic and voila... sealed. But those open slots give you some much needed venting it you put it all up front.

When the Magnum is doing its job and pumping 100 amps back into the batteries it can generate a fair amount of heat. While the basement is bigger, the front compartment allows more airflow. Heat will do more damage to electronics than a little dust.

I usually open my basement door when its really working hard just to give it some venting.

If I could have - I would have mounted all my stuff up front but I went with lead acid batteries so that was not an option for me. I'd rather have all that expensive real estate in the basement available for more junk.

Also - I'm assuming that you are getting a tristar mppt 45? If you are not locked into that you might want to consider the MPPT60. It adds ethernet capability which allows you to hook up a computer or router to the controller and monitor it remotely... like from an ipad or home or whatever. Also allows you to download all of your data which I put into excel to monitor my output.

Lots of good posts with pictures of folks who mounted them in the basement...

7.3Ford and JoLu come to the top of my head.

You can check out my install HERE and see how I mounted my controller and inverter in the basement. (I was still working on the job when the pics were taken so the wires are not all tidy and fuses covered like they are now)

Jolu's install is HERE

Johns is HERE

If I can help further with your install feel free to PM and we can email chat on the phone.

Hope this helps

[Mudchief]

I have everything mounted in the basement because I have the AGM batteries. I agree with Gkerlin and would go with the MPPT60. It also gives you the ability to add more solar panels.

[Alwims]

Everything, but my batteries are in the basement. You will be sorry if you don't go with the TriStar 60 MPPT. I was. I wasted a lot of money by trying to use the Tristar PWM 45. The MPPT 60 was a lot more money, but worth every penny.

[jswharton]

Thanks all for the feedback! MPPT 60, I'm convinced!

[Gkerlin]

Also - I wouldn't mount the inverter directly on the wall or floor. The inverter instructions state that the base can reach 194 degrees UNDER NORMAL circumstances and should not be mounted on flammable materials.. 194 degrees is above the flash point of some materials. I figured if it can get that warm under NORMAL circumstances - what about if you somehow subject it to ABNORMAL conditions...

If you look closely at my install you will see that I used some standoffs (wood spacers) and between that and the inverter is a 1/8" aluminum plate for heat dissipation. Magnum supposedly does sell a mounting plate but I was never able to find it.

[Jolu]

There are many TriStar TS-45 PWM solar charge controllers out there that are serving their owners without any problems. If your system is set up proper for the TS-45 they will serve you just fine. It all goes back to the design of your system.
I run all systems in the Monty except the air conditioner and have 4 6 volt batteries and the TS-45 will maintain the batteries for my use whenever needed. The TS-45 has dip switches for setting up your charge parameters that other charge controllers does not have.
To promote the idea that the TS-45 will not handle the job is not the case for me. I have no regrets using the TS-45 with my system.
With what I have stated in defense of the TS-45 if I were to do another system on a new unit I would look into the benefits of using the latest models and greatest advances of every component in the system. However many of the older proven components have proven to be bulletproof.
Joe

[Alwims]

I'm not saying the TS-45 PWM solar charge controller won't work. It will and has for many years. I'm saying the MPPT controllers give you so many more options over the PWM that they are well worth the cost difference. An example is the amp boost. Right now my panels are putting out 6.1 amps and the MPPT is boosting them to 21.4 amps going into the batteries. I am also using different voltage panels and the MPPT is making them work. This is at 10am, by solar noon, 1:28pm, I'll be getting around 570 watts and the MPPT will be putting around 42 amps into the batteries.
[/URL]
On Edit, you can also post pictures from your computer through the ethernet on the MPPT60.
Here is Solar Noon.
[/URL]

[jswharton]

Inverter install complete and it works! I went with the Mangum MS2012, ME RC50 Remote Panel, MEBTS 15 Battery Temperature Sensor, and MEBMK Battery Monitor Kit. Please excuse the photo links; I was not able to figure out how to in bed the picture into the post.

The first photo shows where I installed the monitor. Easy enough to see and will prevent my obsession to always check the status. I offset the monitor so I would have space to put the solar monitor if or when. Behind the monitor is a junction box that extends 4 circuits to the front compartment that will run off the inverter. On the 3100 the refrigerator is on the GFI circuit and is the only compromise I made. When inverting I’ll have to be sure the refrigerator is on LP. Placed a plate over the four circuits and added a 30 amp circuit to the inverter. I disconnected the charger that came with the Montana but left it intact just in case.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/96516134@N05/8855725122/

I decided to install everything in the front compartment. I attached a ½” angle iron under the compartment for reinforcement and a rubber mat over the base to prevent any chance of road water creeping in. Notice there are currently 2 six volt Lifeline batteries (300AH) and left room to add two more if required down the road. Moved the batteries to the door side for better weight distribution (180lbs now and could go to 360lbs).

Worked real hard to get a clean yet compact install, how did I do? Notice the 2 boxes in the upper left. I used small disconnect boxes, the right on combines the 2X15amp circuits off of the inverter and the left box contains the 4 circuit breakers. I added a complete battery disconnect except for the levelers, left them on the disconnect located in the convenience center. Then there is the shunt, fuse, monitor and battery temp.

In the upper right will be the location for the solar controller and disconnect.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9651613...n/photostream/

The last thing I did was to elevate the inverter 1 ½ “ off the wall. Even though not required I wanted air flow under and around the inverter. Under the inverter is a steel plate as the heat shield.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/9651613...n/photostream/

And still have room for a couple storage bins! Well that’s about it. The feedback I received from the MOC members helped a bunch, thanks

[Ozz]

Very nice job. You should be proud!

[Gkerlin]

Good looking clean install! NIce Job! Good to see the cable all properly supported at regular interval. I also like the sub panel. I really think that is the smart way to go. A bit more work but helps to eliminate the need for load management and less opportunity for mistakes.

Also good to see the inverter has the cooling space between it an the wall. That's an important detail.

About the only thing I see is your disconnect. A small point but I've had one occasion so far where I needed to reset the inverter by disconnecting power. My inverter has it's own disconnect.

You can do that as well with just how you are now wired, but you'll have to kill power to the whole coach (just for a moment) if you use the switch. I probably would have put a second switch inline to the inverter so as to be able to cut power to it instantly, without affecting the rest of the coach but that's purely a personal preference - not a need.

Those lifelines are great batteries. I'm sure you set the MS2012 program to charge the AGM's rather than flooded? AGM's will last a long time as long as you don't overcharge them or hit them with too much voltage.

Nice job.

[BusyCarol]

Nice job Scott! We are totally envious! This is something we are planning on doing to our rig this summer. We can't use the same compartment as you did for the inverter because our rig came with the generator ready package and that compartment is all closed off to the battery area. So we will have to modify that part but it looks very professional! We have the same model rig that you do so it is nice to see someone else's configuration before we take the plunge! Thanks for giving us a jumping off point!