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Old 05-27-2013, 11:48 AM   #21
F3fifty
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by BethandKevin

We had the same issue Vern. I fixed it myself by using #12 screws instead of the ones supplied. Drill the holes in the plate slightly larger to accommodate the larger screws. DO NOT ENLARGE THE HOLES IN THE DOOR. I've had no problem since. I tried epoxy as well-it broke loose. If you look closely at the original screws, there is very little thread to grip the fiberglass panel. It's been over a year since I repaired ours on both sides.
I'll try the # 12 Screws if that doesn't hold the bracket plate the next step will be mounting 1/2" lower with a 1/8" aluminum plate .
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Old 05-27-2013, 02:24 PM   #22
richfaa
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quote:Originally posted by Gkerlin

Quote:
quote:Originally posted by richfaa



I recommend dealers install a piece of diamond plate behind where the strut attaches to.

What does she mean by "behind where the strut attaches to"?

That could be interpreted a couple of ways.

On the inside of the door between the strut and the door (adding more beef to attach to)? I know people have done this with larger plates, epoxy, and more screws... Then attached the strut to that plate.

Or

On the outside of the door? An easier, (but possibly more unsightly) fix?

I've contemplated doing the latter with some 1/8" polished stainless plate.

What i did was to move my strut down 1/2" and carefully torque the screws. Holding fine so far but these doors have so little to bite into that all bets are off.

Has anyone had the factory "fix" made? Would love to see some pictures.
I have the same questions. We will be waiting for the answers.
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:39 AM   #23
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I,am having the same problem just out of warranty so thanks to every one for there ideas to fix this. this is the first problem I have had with my 2012 3455sa
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:04 PM   #24
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quote:Originally posted by F3fifty

My 2012 Montana Mountaineer has the Baggage Slam doors which are very nice from the earlier models and one of the hinges is working loose and now some of the many screws won't tighten up. Anyone else have this problem. IM thinking replace the screws with the next size up plus add a little wood glue? Warranty is up in couple of weeks and this is probably what the dealer will do? Anyone with previous experience with the newer style doors and hinges working loose?

Thanks
Thought I'd update my Post regarding Baggage Compartment plates that were coming loose. Under warranty Curtis Trailers in Portland knows about the problem and has a fix. They applied Pop Rivets where all the screws that had come loose and wouldn't tighten. So obviously this Keystone Montana dealer knows and admits there is a problem and has a fix. This make me a very happy camper .....
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Old 07-14-2013, 02:23 PM   #25
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This is on my list for the fall rally. Best you can buy top of the line Montana...right.
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:39 PM   #26
Carl n Susan
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by F3fifty


Thought I'd update my Post regarding Baggage Compartment plates that were coming loose. Under warranty Curtis Trailers in Portland knows about the problem and has a fix. They applied Pop Rivets where all the screws that had come loose and wouldn't tighten. So obviously this Keystone Montana dealer knows and admits there is a problem and has a fix. This make me very happy camper.....
Keystone made the same repair to my Montana while they had it at the Cougar plant on Oregon. That was eight months ago. Here is how it looks today.





As you can see, there isn't much "meat" on the inside expansion of the pop rivets and consequently, they eventually pull out of the door.

My dealer repaired one of the other doors using wood dowels epoxied into the door and then screws through the bracket and into the dowels. So far that one is still holding (it was repaired six months ago).

Good luck with the pop rivets!!
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:54 PM   #27
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Pretty pattern of holes Carl! I'm sure we will find things out on this problem at the Fall Rally this year. If nothing else Rich will bring it up to the Keystone guys when we have our meeting with them. The wood doweling glued or epoxied in the holes then regular wood screws would seem to me to be the answer! Pop rivets just don't hold real well in wood. Good for metal but not wood. Let us know how long those pop rivets last and either richfaa or I will post the answer to this problem from the Fall Rally.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:21 AM   #28
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This thread will be with me at the rally. The Keystone fix was to GLUE the plate to the door....Glue I say.. We saw pop rivets in another brand, same problem and it did not work. My fix ..back to the swing out doors.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:48 AM   #29
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So far this problem has not come up for me. I have looked at the construction of the doors, they are fairly light in weight and my solution would be to insert a 6" x 6" block of solid wood into the area the strut mounts replacing a section of insulation. This would add very little in weight but would eliminate the problem of the screws pulling out.
I have looked at taking the door apart myself and doing as I suggest but I am not sure that is possible at this point. I am hopeful this is at least one thing I won't be afflicted with on my #1 Montana.

The fact that Keystone put that many screws in such a small area is a dead giveaway they were concerned about the integrity of the support.
Come on Keystone, forget rivets and glue, put some of that supposed brain power of your engineers to work and do it right the first time around.
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:26 AM   #30
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We also looked at taking the door apart and inserting a wood block behind the plate. That might be a fix for the vendor but taking that door apart is not something I can do.
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:47 AM   #31
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If it makes you feel any better, Keystone isn't the only one. Last year when we were in search for replacement for our Sunnybrook, Jayco was high on our list. The Jayco has a much smaller plate and only three screws.At least one in five right on the lot had broken door brackets.
The dowel trick may work but wood screws into end grain isn't very strong. Screw needs to go across the grain to hold well.
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:11 PM   #32
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My larger Screw repair still holds after more than a year of use. Look closely at the screws that come loose-you will see two sets of threads, one higher than the other. Fiberglass needs something to bite deeper than these screws are capable. #12 sheet metal screws fit that bill. My brackets are still rock-solid tight. With a bit of googling, I found that the HiLo screws(actual name) are used primarily in wood fastening, particle board in particular, which our doors are not. Unfortunately. for those that have had dealers install pop rivets, those holes are really big now.
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Old 11-02-2013, 12:25 PM   #33
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Did anyone find any more info at the fall rally? I just had the rear one on the D.S. pop out.
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Old 11-02-2013, 01:40 PM   #34
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we questioned the tech rep at the fall rally. They really do not have a fix. They now do put some glue behind the hinge. I told them that if they ever do come up with a fix let me know. Two of our hinges have torn away from the compartment wall. My fix was Gorilla glue and more screws. It is holding but I keep a close eye on all the hinges and keep a screw driver, toothpicks and Gorilla glue handy. We love our top of the line best you can buy Montana Big Sky.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:14 PM   #35
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Thanks for the update. I think I'll try Gorilla Glue and #12 screws.
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:14 PM   #36
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Here is a link to someone that had issues with his struts and what he did to resolve it, and lots of pictures too.

http://www.cedarcreekrvownersclub.co...hp?f=24&t=1708
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Old 11-02-2013, 02:59 PM   #37
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I had the same problem and fixed both of mine several months ago.

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1/8" X 2" aluminum stock (from Lowes), #10 X 1/4" machine screws to attach strut brackets to 8" pieces of aluminum, #10 X 1/2" stainless steel round head screws to attach aluminum to door. Did this back in July, hasn't moved since. The strut bracket is twisted in opposite directions every time the door is opened or closed and the skinny screws they use are too small for the holes in the bracket, allowing them to start moving back and forth. Just a recipe for failure. Too bad they can't get longer brackets from the strut manufacturers.
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Old 11-03-2013, 04:37 AM   #38
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Thanks for the info, rohrmann. Just got back from Lowes, and I'm going to fix it this afternoon. You would think that Keystone could add this bracing from the factory. If this doesn't hold, I guess the next move is lower pressure struts. I don't see the need for 2 80 psi struts to hold open these doors. Must have been a bargain on them. JT
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Old 11-03-2013, 08:02 AM   #39
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To JT, Hope you get yours fixed. I threaded the holes for the bracket to screw the machine screws to the aluminum and drilled the holes in the aluminum for the sheet metal screws to just fit the screw diameter so there isn't any motion should the screws get loose, which they haven't. I also positioned the assemblies exactly where the brackets were mounted before. I think the struts are perfect, if any lighter, they may drop if a gust of wind blows on them.
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:44 AM   #40
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Got it repaired. (I would say fixed, but only time will tell).I used the aluminum brace on the rear bracket, holding the brace on with #10 sheet metal screws, and the bracket to the brace and door with #12's. I also took the screws out of the front bracket, and re-installed with Gorilla glue. I'll hope for the best. Thanks for the replies!
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