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01-28-2013, 07:38 AM
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#1
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location:
Posts: 724
M.O.C. #10948
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Faulty Screen Door Switch for Kitchen Lights
The switch that's mounted on the exterior door frame and which turns on the kitchen lights when the screen door is opened was giving me issues. The plunger was constantly sticking making the screen door hard to close. I took the switch out of the door frame and while doing so, the switch became very hot. The two connectors on the spade terminals looked OK so I took the switch apart and discovered that the insulating material the separates the positive & negative terminals was badly scorched to the point where it disintegrated when I touched it. See a picture of the switch assembly and the burnt component here ...
https://picasaweb.google.com/1095054...CK2I3OngoLjJFQ
I'm not sure what caused the problem or to what extent this could have become a problem worse than a fire hazard but I know for sure that I wasn't comfortable with it so I'm searching for a replacement switch with a better means of switching power. Until then the switch is back in the door frame for decorative purposes only ... no electrical connections!
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01-28-2013, 08:07 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Ione
Posts: 582
M.O.C. #11371
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moutard2,
I have the exact same problem with the door switch sticking all the time on my 2011 3580RL Big Sky. I have not take the switch out to look at it yet but I will now. When ever it would stick I would push the switch in a couple of time by hand and it would be ok for a while. When you put the switch back in but did not connect it how will you fish the wires out of the hole to connect a new switch? Have you ordered a new switch? Did you contact Montana to tell them about the fire hazard?
Frank
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01-28-2013, 08:37 AM
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#3
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location:
Posts: 724
M.O.C. #10948
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by maximo
moutard2,
I have the exact same problem with the door switch sticking all the time on my 2011 3580RL Big Sky. I have not take the switch out to look at it yet but I will now. When ever it would stick I would push the switch in a couple of time by hand and it would be ok for a while. When you put the switch back in but did not connect it how will you fish the wires out of the hole to connect a new switch? Have you ordered a new switch? Did you contact Montana to tell them about the fire hazard?
Frank
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Your problem and solution was exactly what I experienced and exactly what I did as a temporary fix to the sticky plunger. With the insulating piece removed from the switch assembly, the plunger goes in and out like a charm. I taped the connectors on the wires and then wrapped duct tape around the wires and the body of the switch leaving about 4 inches of tape in between. I pushed the wires back into the hole, then the tape connecting the wires and the switch body, and reinstalled the switch. When I remove it again, hopefully the tape will remain intact on the switch and everything will pull out.
I'm in the process of notifying Keystone ... just in case!
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01-28-2013, 11:38 AM
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#4
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hanover
Posts: 335
M.O.C. #9710
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I noticed from the day we took delivery of our unit that the kitchen lights were slightly dimmer whenever the door was open and the wall switch off. It just never seemed to have the current carrying capacity with the standard bulbs. The only thing that helped was when we converted to LED type bulbs we bought from Michael and Kat. I lubricated the plunger and that seemed to solve the binding issue when closing the door.
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01-28-2013, 12:20 PM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Sebring
Posts: 3,659
M.O.C. #9969
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My guess, if you have either the 918 incandesents or halogen bulbs the current draw is exceeing the rating of that, shall we say cheap switch. I remember on our Monty the same thing that the lights weren't as bright with the door open as they were from the wall switch. Now we never had a problem, but I had some of the ceiling lights turned off so the switch was only operating one set of lights.
__________________
Michelle & Ann
2018 Chevy 3500HD High Country DRW 4X4 Crew Cab w/Duramax/Allison, Formally 2010 Montana 2955RL, Now Loaded 2016 SOB, Mor/ryde IS, Disc Brakes & Pin Box, Comfort Ride Hitch, Sailun 17.5 Tires.
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01-28-2013, 03:56 PM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Pahrump
Posts: 2,523
M.O.C. #1081
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I had the same issue with the switch sticking when opening the door. I lubricated the switch with some white grease and it has not given us any more problems since.
I agree that it is not the best switch and sometimes wish I could just remove it. Not sure I really like the lights coming on when answering the door. If it is removed, what do I do with the wires and still have the wall switch work for the lights?
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01-28-2013, 04:11 PM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: billings
Posts: 110
M.O.C. #12853
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PackerFan the switches are in parallel so you could disconnect the wires from the door switch. Make sure the wires that were on the door switch are insulated when they are disconnected.
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01-29-2013, 01:38 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 3,335
M.O.C. #10496
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I have had the same problem since the day I took delivery. I have toyed with the idea of replacing the switch with an appropriately rated micro switch. I haven't implemented the fix yet though. Has anyone else implemented a different switch replacement?
__________________
2010 3150RL
LevelUp, Dual 6 volt batteries, Progressive Industries EMS HW50C, Honda EU2000i Generator, Bridgestone Duravis R250 tires, Torklift Glowstep Revolution Stairs, LED Tail lights
2015 RAM 3500 Laramie SRW LB CC Cummins 6.7L Aisin Trans B&W RVK3600
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01-29-2013, 01:58 AM
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#9
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Navarre
Posts: 1,527
M.O.C. #9765
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We don't use it. I fashioned a small sheetmetal plate to cover the switch using the existing screw holes. If I want to turn the light on, I use the wall switch.
Mike
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01-29-2013, 02:48 PM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Pahrump
Posts: 2,523
M.O.C. #1081
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Bobcat92: Thanks for the info. I will try that.
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01-30-2013, 12:43 AM
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#11
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Hanover
Posts: 335
M.O.C. #9710
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I added a on/off switch just inside the screen door at about the same level as the plunger that opens the hot leg when off. This way we can have the light come on or stay off with the screen door open.
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01-30-2013, 02:00 AM
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#12
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lake Gaston
Posts: 8,773
M.O.C. #12156
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by pineranch
We don't use it. I fashioned a small sheetmetal plate to cover the switch using the existing screw holes. If I want to turn the light on, I use the wall switch.
Mike
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X2 We did the same thing.
__________________
Mike and Lorraine
2002 3655 FL, 2005 3650RK
2010 3665RE, 2015 3910FB
F350 crew cab dually 6.7
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01-30-2013, 02:41 PM
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#13
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Montana Master
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Pahrump
Posts: 2,523
M.O.C. #1081
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Johnnyg: I like that idea of the on/off switch. It gives you the option to have it on or not when you want it.
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01-31-2013, 03:21 AM
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#14
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Montana Master
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: North East
Posts: 1,050
M.O.C. #10758
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Mine did not work at all, broken wire at the wall switch. So, I mounted a single light above the wall switch and wired that to the welcome home door switch.
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04-22-2018, 06:18 PM
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#15
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Established Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: LaGrange
Posts: 31
M.O.C. #10292
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I have a 2010 Montana 5er that needs a new door jamb switch. The one that activates the overhead light upon opening the door. Anyone know where I can locate one of these? I appreciate any help. Thanks
jtree@hotmail.com
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04-22-2018, 07:46 PM
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#16
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Montana Master
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Thornville
Posts: 546
M.O.C. #21110
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trekwoodrvparts.com. I replied to your original thread also on this same subject. They should have it.
__________________
Darwin & Carla
2018.5 3701LK Montana
2022 3500HD Denali Duramax SRW
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08-30-2020, 11:29 AM
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#17
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Established Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Belfair
Posts: 26
M.O.C. #14615
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You'd think after all these complaints about this stupid switch Keystone would put out fix. How bout it Keystone?
I have replaced my switch twice. The third time it failed I disconnected the wires, insulated them and shoved'em back in the hole.
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08-30-2020, 03:34 PM
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#18
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Sebring
Posts: 3,659
M.O.C. #9969
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It was a nice feature, but it needed a disable switch. Some times we would just as soon not light up the whole trailer when coming in at night.
__________________
Michelle & Ann
2018 Chevy 3500HD High Country DRW 4X4 Crew Cab w/Duramax/Allison, Formally 2010 Montana 2955RL, Now Loaded 2016 SOB, Mor/ryde IS, Disc Brakes & Pin Box, Comfort Ride Hitch, Sailun 17.5 Tires.
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08-31-2020, 08:28 AM
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#19
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Montana Master
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: westminster md
Posts: 2,318
M.O.C. #17894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhs4771
It was a nice feature, but it needed a disable switch. Some times we would just as soon not light up the whole trailer when coming in at night.
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I did just that. I removed the stock switch. Drilled a hole thought the back side of the stud. Cut a hole in the wall and mounted a small switch to disable the door switch when needed. Like when boondocking. Woks Great.
__________________
2018 Chevy 3500 LTZ Dually Diesel 4x4 CCLB
2011 Montana 3455 SA. 6 point level up. Disc brakes. Curt Q24 Hitch. 5 step glow steps
Progressive EMS. Valterra tank valves. Sailun G637 tires. ARP fridge control. All led lighting. Mor Ryde IS
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