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Old 08-19-2021, 12:52 PM   #1
nanstev
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Converter Help

We have a 2012 Montana 3800RE. Have never had many problems but have usually lived it for work 4mos of the year. Now we have it at a campsite sitting for the summer. Get to use it maybe every other weekend. My question is--- Do you have to have the converter on to run the frig. It is a Theftford Norcold 1210. We came back after a storm that had shut off elec for 3 days and it was not working even tho we had it to turn on gas if elec went out. The neighbor has a Keystone and has no battery and has no problem. My husband and I have searched high and low on this subject and some say you do and some say you dont. Called theftford and they wont answer phone, says to go to website. Also our Electric bill is twice as much as the other people around that are there all the time. All we leave on is frig and converter when we leave ..
Elec company came out and said we have over 4 amps drawing. We are not electric smart Any ideas out there?
 
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Old 08-19-2021, 01:21 PM   #2
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I think you need 12 volts to start the gas. It needs a spark to start it and that is 12 volts. When you start the gas burner if you are outside with your ear near the frig you will hear a pop pop until the burner starts.
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Old 08-19-2021, 02:14 PM   #3
Carl n Susan
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The refer needs 12V whether you are on Propane or Electric. You do not need the converter on to run the frig *IF* your batteries are good and charged. The refer doesn't draw much electricity when running on propane.

I suspect your batteries are dead or non-existent. It could also be the battery disconnect switch is in the wrong position.

If there is shore power, then the converter provides 12V and things seem to be wonderful. When the shore power goes away, and 12V is missing, then things are not.
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Old 08-19-2021, 03:06 PM   #4
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If you had the fridge set to auto, then it should have switched to run off propane. Running on shore power, the fridge 120vac heater will pull around 4 amps. As noted above, 12vdc battery power is needed by the fridge to run the fridge electronics. If you only have a single battery, you can't expect much run time without the converter charging the battery. If your battery/s are near 4 years old or have been discharged below 50% at times, then they may well be on their last legs.
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Old 08-20-2021, 07:27 AM   #5
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Sorry didnt get back yesterday got unepected company. I understand that the battery has to light the propane to start. We probably have never had to use propane back up so going up there this evening and checking out the burner and fluel. BUT... my real question is you need to run the converter all the time? Going to also check battery out. It was good when we used the leveling system a couple of months ago but who knows now. Should we just leave the converter on when we leave or all the time we are there for the weekend? I just dont understand how the neighbor operates on shore power only and no battery or conerter Do you thingk the converter is what is running our electric bill up? Never did before.
We both are not electric inclined.
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Old 08-20-2021, 08:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nanstev View Post
... BUT... my real question is you need to run the converter all the time? Going to also check battery out. It was good when we used the leveling system a couple of months ago but who knows now. Should we just leave the converter on when we leave or all the time we are there for the weekend? ...
I assume your question is "should I leave the converter ON when I am ONLY there on the weekend". I would say YES. There are parasitic loads on the batteries that can suck it dry in a short time (week or so max). Leaving the converter on ensures the battery stays charged. As there isn't a heavy draw, the converter doesn't have to work had to maintain a full charge.

Quote:
....I just dont understand how the neighbor operates on shore power only and no battery or conerter ...
If he has a RV refer or a residential one, he has to have 12V present. I can only assume he turns off his refer and doesn't plan to use the jacks or slides.

Quote:
.....Do you think the converter is what is running our electric bill up? Never did before.
We both are not electric inclined.
I suspect that part of that 4 amp 120V draw you saw may have been the converter working to charge the batteries. It can takes 9-10 amps for a heavy charge. The refer on electric also can use around 4 amps when cooling. I don't know how much electric you are using. If you read the meter when you leave and then when you return it will give you an exact amount of Kilowatts used and from there you can determine amps.
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Old 08-20-2021, 09:16 AM   #7
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Ok thanks. Gonna check things out this weekend. Might have to get a new battery cause this one is probably 3 years old or older.
As for the neighbor..... no they do not have a residential frig and doesnt turn it off when they leave. (unless they are fibbing). But they also have a small portable one on the deck that they also leave on. THey dont use slides or jacks. They are permanent. They bought it as is.
I did read meter when we left the last time It was off for 3 days after that.
Does a battery take more amps charging if it is on its last leg?
One other question LOL. The battery disconnet in the convience center needs to be on ALL the time right. That is what we always did.
Thanks so much will check things out this weekend and I am sure probably have more questions when we return.
Have had this new from day 1 and never had any problems at all.
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Old 08-20-2021, 09:40 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by nanstev View Post
...As for the neighbor..... no they do not have a residential frig and doesnt turn it off when they leave. (unless they are fibbing). But they also have a small portable one on the deck that they also leave on. THey dont use slides or jacks. They are permanent. They bought it as is...
I don't understand enough about their configuration. With the converter off and no battery, there is no 12V to run a RV propane/electric refer. They must have a different type of refer or they empty it to the outside one. Beats me

Quote:
...I did read meter when we left the last time It was off for 3 days after that.

Does a battery take more amps charging if it is on its last leg? ..
If it is bad I would say yes it uses more power to try and get it charged

Quote:
..One other question LOL. The battery disconnet in the convience center needs to be on ALL the time right. That is what we always did.
That is what I do also. If I am working on the electrical system or leaving it a repair facility, I disconnect the batteries at the ground cable. I never touch the red key. It is always in the non-removable key position.
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Old 08-30-2021, 07:00 AM   #9
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Well was up there for 3 days and checked everything out. Tried turning on fridge to propane and it worked fine why it didn't come on when electric went off have no idea. Battery also checked out fine. Turn almost every circuit breaker off except the ones to run fridge and converter. we read out the meter and will check the next time we go back before turning anything on and see if that is what is drawing so many amps. Thanks everyone for reply
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Old 08-31-2021, 05:45 AM   #10
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Replace battery it is key to your problem, I had a bad battery do to my own fault by not checking water levels. Bought new battery and found out that was not the only problem, seams that my converter needed to be replaced. Do the testing it is simple replacement.
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Old 08-31-2021, 09:15 AM   #11
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This may sound stupid but how do you test the converter. Like I said --we are not electric smart. I will look on here for a blog on replacing if there is one. Did the bad converter run your new battery down also?
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Old 08-31-2021, 08:10 PM   #12
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You apparently have a 2012 380RL. If so, the converter is integrated into the Power Distribution Panel system near the floor on the right side as you enter the RV.


You need a Volt/Ohm meter to measure the DC voltage. With no shore power connected, the 12V bus on the converter should read around 12.4V. Applying shore power energizes the converter and the same measurement should read something like 13.4V. If it does the converter is fine. If not, check the Reverse Polarity fuses to ensure they are not blown.

There is Progressive Dynamics Power System manual in the files section that shows the component parts and where they are located in the housing.
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Old 09-01-2021, 02:49 PM   #13
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Will check out converter this weekend when we go back. Believe it or not I do know how to use a meter Will look for the download of conveter on here.
Thanks so much for the help.
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Old 09-01-2021, 06:03 PM   #14
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Find a YouTube video on how to use a meter. The meter is not as complicated as they look. A must have trusted tool and skill for all RV owners. Keep us posted on your progress.
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Old 09-01-2021, 06:07 PM   #15
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Here is a link to Files Section PDF on Progressive Dynamics converter troubleshooting
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...?do=file&id=58
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Old 09-01-2021, 08:27 PM   #16
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I do know how to use a meter and already downloaded the converter troubleshooting. Will keep you posted after this weekend.
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