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Old 12-04-2021, 11:17 PM   #1
Bierp
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Proper water supply line sizing

I hate plumbing. I never get it right on the first..second..ninth tries.

I'm replacing the kitchen faucet in my 2018 3950BR. To my credit, I've replaced probably 4 other RV faucets over the years without too much issue. So of course, this one is going to hose me.

The new faucet requires a different supply line connection than the current faucet. That shouldn't be too big a deal, but I want to be absolutely sure I order the right part and this is where I need some assistance. (Home Depot and the regional hardware store didn't have what I needed.)

The feed line is 1/2" PEX. I think the faucet is a female 3/8" compression thread, but this is where I always get it wonked up. Compression threads vs. brass pipe threads, etc. My failure rate on this is high and for this job I really only get one shot at it, so I'm hoping for some guidance from my trusted Montana experts.

Here's an image of the faucet intake line.



I'm thinking this would be the right part to put on my PEX line to connect to that, but I get twitchy as the attached nut and ring don't seem to apply. Can I just omit them as my piece is threaded already?

https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-230.../dp/B004XM6J1A

I don't really need the stop valve if there's a direct connection part, but I'm more concerned that this is just the wrong part entirely.


Next question. Getting my existing faucet off is going to be more of a challenge than I'd like. The 'nut' which threads it into place is...challenging to access, and it doesn't play nicely with my multifunction faucet tool. Getting channel locks on to it is also extremely difficult. Any advice on the right tool/method for getting this thing off?



As always, I appreciate your assistance!

-Jeremy
 
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Old 12-05-2021, 03:55 AM   #2
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As for your second question, they make a basin wrench to remove that nut.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Basi...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
As for the first, I can't see the 3/8 side of the valve in the pictures. In theory, it should be correct, but not 100% sure. I suffer from the same plumbing problems you do. Every job requires at least 2 trips to the store for parts.
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Old 12-05-2021, 04:09 AM   #3
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That nut has to be 1.5" or more in diameter. I don't think a basin wrench can cover that. (Am I wrong?)

I have a tool similar to this, which has served me well on faucets in the past, but it's also too small to get over the threaded tube or the nut. https://www.amazon.com/Installer-Mul.../dp/B08XBLSM6G

I wonder if I could get one of these around it though? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Adju...nch/1002645196

That was shown as a specialty tool from your basin wrench link, so if that does the trick, you get full credit.
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Old 12-05-2021, 04:16 AM   #4
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The crescent wrench style might work if you can get at it from the side. Doesn't look like you can from the picture, though. Basin wrenches do come in different sizes all the way up to around 2" though. The head turns 90 degrees so the wrench part can be utilized perpendicular to the head.
I had a similar problem in the S&B years ago and found it easier to just remove the sink to get at it. Then a pair of channel locks would fit just fine.
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Old 12-05-2021, 05:59 AM   #5
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Jeremy,

Did you loosen the screws on either side of that nut? Once the pressure is of of those screws you should be able to loosen the nut by hand, may help to have 2 people - one unscrewing the faucet while the other holds the nut. I swapped ours out several months ago.

Also, add a stop (valve) to your pex with the correct compression threads - they make shark bite style valves that'll work. I've added valves to all my supply lines.
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Old 12-05-2021, 06:26 AM   #6
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I feel your pain. When I replaced the original kitchen faucet on my 2006 that retainer nut was a B to get off. Yours looks pretty clean. If you loosen the two screws on the retainer nut you might be surprised how easy that retainer nut moves. If it doesn't, and mine didn't, it becomes a two-person job. Wife held the faucet from above and I was able to get a pair of water pump pliers on it from below. Since I was trashing the old faucet, I cut the supply and sprayer line off right below the collar of the faucet just to get them out of the way. Made reaching that nut much easier. If you do that take the end of the old faucet that attaches to the pex, along with your new faucet to a hardware store. They will have the part you need to attach the supply lines to your new faucet.

Whoops, looks like RipNC was posting as I was typing! Anyway, it is not as daunting as it appears. Having some beer available while undertaking will help.
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Old 12-05-2021, 10:41 AM   #7
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Been thinking about this since this morning. It has been a long time since I changed mine. If memory serves me correct the OEM RV faucet had a threaded male fitting that went into the female end on the pex. The new residential faucet I installed had a female threaded ending like your new faucet. To make it work I just installed a 1/2" nipple. I used brass only because the hardware store I went to didn't have it in plastic. Either will work.
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Old 12-05-2021, 01:31 PM   #8
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Yes, I loosened the screws (removed them), but it still didn't want to come off cleanly. I then put them back in to create tension and broke it free from the faucet side. That still didn't free it up enough to remove it by hand (after releasing the screws again.)

I tried to inject some WD40 on to the threads, but that didn't help much.

I suspect that by cutting off the lead lines (good idea!) that I could wrangle it free more easily, but due to the need to keep the existing one functional until I get the correct parts, I couldn't get overly aggressive.

My bigger concern is getting the right threads on the lead line. Adding a nipple into the existing fitting is an idea, though I'm quite comfortable just putting a new fixture on the PEX. What level of confidence do 'we' have in it being a compression thread? If it is, the new lead parts all come with the nut and ring. Can I just set those aside when I make the attachment? Extra parts scare me.


J
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Old 12-08-2021, 08:12 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Bierp View Post
Yes, I loosened the screws (removed them), but it still didn't want to come off cleanly. I then put them back in to create tension and broke it free from the faucet side. That still didn't free it up enough to remove it by hand (after releasing the screws again.)

I tried to inject some WD40 on to the threads, but that didn't help much.

I suspect that by cutting off the lead lines (good idea!) that I could wrangle it free more easily, but due to the need to keep the existing one functional until I get the correct parts, I couldn't get overly aggressive.

My bigger concern is getting the right threads on the lead line. Adding a nipple into the existing fitting is an idea, though I'm quite comfortable just putting a new fixture on the PEX. What level of confidence do 'we' have in it being a compression thread? If it is, the new lead parts all come with the nut and ring. Can I just set those aside when I make the attachment? Extra parts scare me.


J
I would venture to say that more than likely the threads on your pex line will be the NPT standard threads. These are the threads you would use either pipe dope or teflon tape on. Most of the time they (manufacturers) are assuming your adding a stop or shut off valve in-between the line and the faucet. On the faucet side, they are mostly 3/8 ,compression nuts. A simple nipple of the NPT thread on one side to the 3/8 compression on the other side will work. Or just add a shut-off, it's up to you. Either way, don't forget your pipe dope or tape on the NPT side. Good luck
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Old 12-09-2021, 07:39 AM   #10
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I am about to embark on the same project for my 3625RE...but I am having much difficulty finding a replacement faucet that fits in the existing corian holes. The faucet component is going through a very small 1" hole (only one tube, photo 2), whereas the hot/cold mixer goes through a 1-3/4" hole (3 tubes, photo 1). I am finding nothing that supports a 1" hole. Most want 1-1/2" or more. Is your configuration similar?
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Old 12-09-2021, 01:25 PM   #11
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Ok, so I was able to get the nut off with a 2.5" basin wrench. (Thanks for the heads up on those being available in larger sizes!)

I went with the 3/8" OD stop valve and it worked perfectly. I did NOT use teflon tape, simply because it wasn't mentioned in the install manual and I didn't think of it until I finished, then came and read the post suggesting it. However, the gasket in the faucet-side line compresses a fair bit and should keep tension on the threads. Do I need to take it apart and tape it up, or will I be good?

Here's the new supply line setup:




Thanks for all the advice!

J
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Old 12-09-2021, 01:26 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by VagabondLove View Post
I am about to embark on the same project for my 3625RE...but I am having much difficulty finding a replacement faucet that fits in the existing corian holes. The faucet component is going through a very small 1" hole (only one tube, photo 2), whereas the hot/cold mixer goes through a 1-3/4" hole (3 tubes, photo 1). I am finding nothing that supports a 1" hole. Most want 1-1/2" or more. Is your configuration similar?
Mine had a conventional hole size, so I didn't have this issue. I'd imagine you can enlarge it with a hole saw, but with no drill bit starter, that could be tricky.
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Old 12-09-2021, 08:19 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Bierp View Post
Ok, so I was able to get the nut off with a 2.5" basin wrench. (Thanks for the heads up on those being available in larger sizes!)

I went with the 3/8" OD stop valve and it worked perfectly. I did NOT use teflon tape, simply because it wasn't mentioned in the install manual and I didn't think of it until I finished, then came and read the post suggesting it. However, the gasket in the faucet-side line compresses a fair bit and should keep tension on the threads. Do I need to take it apart and tape it up, or will I be good?

Here's the new supply line setup:




Thanks for all the advice!

J
That's your call, but it could leak around the threads. It really depends on the pressure of your pump. You can try it first. However, it's simple enough to break it apart and put tape on to be sure. The job looks neat though, good job.
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Old 12-09-2021, 09:16 PM   #14
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Thanks. I'll keep an eye on it. I ran the internal pump and didn't get any leakage. I keep external pressure regulated at 40 psi and that's also not leaking.

But I'll watch it.


Thanks,
J
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Old 12-10-2021, 05:08 AM   #15
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The typical recommendation is not to use teflon tape on compression fittings. That being said, I have in the past and it didn't hurt anything as long as you're careful not to over do it with wraps of tape. If it's not leaking, I'd leave it alone.
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Old 12-10-2021, 01:14 PM   #16
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The typical recommendation is not to use teflon tape on compression fittings. That being said, I have in the past and it didn't hurt anything as long as you're careful not to over do it with wraps of tape. If it's not leaking, I'd leave it alone.
Ok, cool.

Thanks again for all the input! My wife is pleased with her new faucet and that's all that really matters.


J
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Old 12-10-2021, 03:13 PM   #17
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I replaced our bathroom faucet and used similar shark bite shut offs. Very easy install. You shouldn't need tape on those compression fittings as it's not really sealing at the threads.
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