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Old 05-05-2006, 05:29 PM   #1
RADHAZJOE
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cold water in shower

When we use the water turn off on the shower head, and then turn the water back on, it is cold for 2-3 seconds then warms up.. I asumed it was cold water backing into the hot water line since both faucets are open. But is there a check valve in the hot water line that is supposed to prevent this?
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Old 05-05-2006, 06:33 PM   #2
Montana_1858
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Hope someone comes up with an answer, this is our 4 trailor and they have all done that.
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Old 05-05-2006, 06:58 PM   #3
Glenn and Lorraine
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This comes up every so often and I don't remember the actual explanation. Maybe we have a plumber that can answer it. I know that back when we had the first energy crunch in the 70's they had replacement shower heads in homes that could be closed while you lathered up. You would than open it to rinse and the water would initially be cold. It was done for energy conservation.
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Old 05-05-2006, 10:18 PM   #4
firetrucker
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I suspect that it's heat loss from the plastic pipe, which is a fairly small diameter and will lose heat quickly. An easy way to check is to turn on the kitchen faucet (or the one closest to the water heater) until you get the right temperature, turn it off for a while, then see how long it takes to get the same temperature when you turn it back on. Since the pressure in both the hot and cold lines is the same, there will be no flow from the cold to the hot, or vice versa.

I've seen several posts about how people have insulated the hot water line and eliminated quite a bit of that loss. Haven't done it myself, yet.

Bob
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Old 05-06-2006, 02:12 AM   #5
wileecoyote985
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Not sure of the cause but I think it may be a problem on all our rigs. I've seen several discussions on this very subject and haven't read of a satisfactory fix.

I just make sure to have the sprayer pointed away from me when I turn it back on.
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Old 05-06-2006, 06:30 PM   #6
scattershot
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It's a problem for us, too. I read somewhere that an accumulator will solve the problem, but haven't tried it yet. If anyone finds the answer, please post it.
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Old 05-07-2006, 12:30 PM   #7
Illini Trekker
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Think it might be the volume of water contained in the hot water system verses the amount of water in the cold water pipe alone? This IMOP causes the surge in the cold water side.
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Old 05-07-2006, 12:48 PM   #8
awaywego
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This is the fifth Rv I have had and the first to do what you are talking about.The shower head lets the water drip so the temp will stay the same but for some reason on the Monty it does not help.
Hope someone will come along and answer this.
I change the faucet and that did not help.
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Old 05-07-2006, 04:33 PM   #9
Parrothead
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We have had 3 fifth wheels and they all do it. Several years ago in Trailer Life in the 10 Minute Tech portion there was a guy who ran a special drain back down into the fresh water tank to catch the "warm up" water when you are boondocking. Obviously a problem in many units. Small thing (IMHO) for all the enjoyment we receive from the Monty.
Happy trails...........................
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Old 05-07-2006, 04:42 PM   #10
CountryGuy
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Both our trailers have done same thing, and by the way scattershot, the accumulator tank on the TT we had did not change this uncomfortable event. Still happened.

Al gave me a long detailed explanation of why today, which I am too tired to remember! (That's my story and I am stickin to it, he'll say I just did not listen! Honestly I DID! )

Anyway, the accumlulator tank was not the answer or solution in the TT. He is in the midst of installing one on Tana, however, we do not expect it will be any different.

When taking a shower, if you use the water saver, when you turn the water back on to rinse off, point it at the wall! Or get ready to jump! BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
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Old 05-07-2006, 04:49 PM   #11
Montana Sky
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I have the answer!!!!!!





You have to go out and buy a new 2007 Prevost H3-45. These babies have "instant" hot water on demand! They even have hot water that runs through the flooring to keep the floor warm during the colder months. All this and more can be yours for a price of $1.6M
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Old 05-07-2006, 04:50 PM   #12
CountryGuy
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Montana Sky

Hold that thought while I pick myself off the floor, too much laughter here!
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Old 05-07-2006, 04:52 PM   #13
dsprik
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I don't know what the access to those lines look like, but maybe you could put in a check valve in the line at the critical jucture, then just above that, install a "T" with a drain hose attached that you open to drain when breaking camp/winterizing/etc? The "T" would have to be as close as possible to the check valve to prevent any trapped water when draining.

Or else just pull the line off the check valve when you are ready to drain the showerhead line. As I said, I have no idea (until our factory tour, anyway) how these lines are laid out. This may be impossible, but this is just a "Sunday night" thought.
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Old 05-07-2006, 04:53 PM   #14
dsprik
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Does that include the maid, Dave?
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Old 05-07-2006, 08:49 PM   #15
Montana Sky
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Dave,
No maid, but you can get a 60" LCD tv that folds down from the ceiling. Oh, dont forget the granite and marble counter tops and floors, and one of my favorite options.... Fiber optic lighting in the ceiling, windows, toe kicks, under the counter tops and anywhere else you want. Hey what if all the MOC members goes in together?? Maybe we could purchase one or two... Oh wait then who gets it during what week?? Oh never mind.......................
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Old 05-08-2006, 03:52 AM   #16
richfaa
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Four campers all the same with the cold water in the shower. The answer is to always have full hookups so you do not need to take a campers shower.
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Old 05-08-2006, 06:18 AM   #17
Trailer Trash 2
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My thery is hot water is thinner and cold is denser causing the cold to push through the hot water and move to the heater. I remember last discussion on this we got as far as a in line check valve on the hot water line going to the shower valve. and it ended there.

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Old 05-08-2006, 06:54 AM   #18
Bob & Lee
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The long hot shower... full hock up is not the answer you still only have 0 gal. so check out this link. I'm waiting for the price to come in the mail

http://www.precisiontemp.com/
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Old 05-08-2006, 07:02 AM   #19
dsprik
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I would still want to be able to use electric, I think, where possible. Wonder how much extra propane that takes over the course of a month? Also, do you have to remove your current HW tank?
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Old 05-08-2006, 07:22 AM   #20
Bob & Lee
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I just searched the tankless water heater and they say it uses less propane,you do loose the 120V but is propane and 12V for $879. and then it says add 120V for $99. trying to figure if that is replacing the 12V or heating w/120V. The add says it replaces the one you have but didnt think of adding it to what is there ???
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