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01-24-2008, 03:23 AM
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#1
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chester
Posts: 307
M.O.C. #7818
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AC/DC Converter
I have 2 questions. 1: Has any body w/a rear kitchen 5ver ever had the pilot light blown out for the fridge while going down the road? It has happened to me on my old TT which had the fridge on the side. With this being said and there are 2 vent covers on a rear kitchen 5ver it looks like it could happen. 2: Has anybody ever installed a AC/DC inverter in the 5ver to run the fridge on 120 when you are going down the road? I know they make a fridge that will run on 12v when under way but it was not an option I could get.
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01-24-2008, 03:52 AM
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#2
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cedar Rapids
Posts: 4,876
M.O.C. #1944
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I think you're talking about an "inverter" which changes dc to ac. There have been some who have purchased a small inverter which allows them to run a tv so I don't see why you couldn't install one to run the refrigerator.
Orv
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01-24-2008, 04:02 AM
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#3
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chester
Posts: 307
M.O.C. #7818
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You are correct, I had a typo.
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01-24-2008, 05:08 AM
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#4
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 5,615
M.O.C. #6109
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Waldo -
Question 1, our 3400 has the fridge in the slide with 2 vents in the wall, and yes, It has blown out on me several times. This was never an issue with our 2955 that had an upper roof vent. I just remember now to go back and check it every once in a while.
Question 2, You could indeed run the fridge on an inverter. However it appears the fridge draws a lot of power based on the size of the AC Cord, which means an inverter may pull more from your coach batteries than your truck is able to charge. You might have to do some investigation first to see if it would be a reasonable alternative.
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01-24-2008, 05:26 AM
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#5
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
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I just happened to be looking at fridge parts this morning. Our bottom shelf (door) needs replaced. I would have thought the fridge would draw lots of current on 120 volts, but the info plate rates it as 2.7 amps at 120 volts. To my surprise, the heater element is only 325 watts on AC. Resistance load equals no surge. Looks like a 500 watt inverter would do the trick. Am I missing something?
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01-24-2008, 05:57 AM
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#6
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lone Tree
Posts: 5,615
M.O.C. #6109
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Wow, thats pretty good. Guess it doesn't take much to generate enough heat to move ammonia around.
I would think you got it covered Will. That inverter load could easily be recovered through the 12V TV charge, as long as you went direct to the fridge and bypassed the on board converter.
Brad
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01-24-2008, 06:12 AM
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#7
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chester
Posts: 307
M.O.C. #7818
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Yes, I would have it on its own circuit. I need to look and see if the fridge has its own breaker. The circuit board I beleive always runs on 12v and the gas valve. The 120v would only be for the heater element.
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01-24-2008, 06:24 AM
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#8
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Montana Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location:
Posts: 2,376
M.O.C. #6575
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by waldo238
Yes, I would have it on its own circuit. I need to look and see if the fridge has its own breaker. The circuit board I beleive always runs on 12v and the gas valve. The 120v would only be for the heater element.
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Hmmm....I didn't think about the 12 vdc side of it, but you are correct. Here is a nice little diagram of the second generation dometic fridges.
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01-24-2008, 07:23 AM
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#9
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Montana Fan
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Chester
Posts: 307
M.O.C. #7818
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If I remember correctly from reading the manuals the fridge must always have 12v to run the controls if it is on gas or shore power. That was good little bit of info.
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01-25-2008, 08:23 AM
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#10
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Montana Master
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: merced
Posts: 983
M.O.C. #6171
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I have a 3000RK and have yet to have the any problems with the polit blowing out.
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