Slide alignment problem

[patodonn]

We have a front living room model. We noticed our hydraulically operated bedroom slide (passenger side, aft part of Monty) wasn't completely closed at the bottom front edge, with about a 1 inch gap. Back edge looked normal. When we tried to cycle it in/out, it was trying to shift sideways and move at an angle, not straight in or out. We thought maybe something had fallen between the slide and the frame. Not the problem...

Thanks to the Forum, last year I had heard of this condition in conjunction with broken bolt(s) that secure the "follow-up" mechanism underneath the slide. This "torque tube" connects the two big gears that ride on the toothed tracks under the slide. This is what keeps the slide moving straight in or out, even though the hydraulic actuator piston is mounted way off center of the slide.

Crawled underneath and, sure enough, the bolt was missing from one end of the torque tube. We were able to get the slide alignment back to correct by "bumping" the switch until the slide was straight, best we could tell. Realigned bolt hole the same way, then installed a new bolt. I had purchased the necessary bolts last year. Everything seems OK for now.

Now, the questions for the Forum...first, when checking the slide area, I discovered a crack in the fiberglass at the upper rear corner of the slide opening. It is about 2 1/2 inches long, normal "crack" width, and extends at a 45 degree angle up and back from that corner. (Picture posted below) It appears to be a stress crack, most probably caused by the mis-alignment of the slide when we retracted it without knowing about the missing bolt. I will "stop drill" it, caulk it, and watch for any changes. Any other repair suggestions?

I probably should contact Keystone to get the info into our records there, just in case it is a more significant problem than we believe. It is possible that an underlying slide frame problem caused the slide to bind somewhat, causing the bolt to shear to begin with. We will obviously keep an eye on that possibility and observe the slide operation carefully. Any comments/suggestions re that thought?

Last, I tried a Forum search for the item from last year which related to this problem. No luck. Anyone else able to dig it out of the postings/archives? I remember Dale (MIMF2) giving us the bolt size/type specifics.

Thanks,

[ols1932]

Patodonn,
Keystone has repaired almost all the reported fiberglass cracks either at their customer service department in Goshen or at a dealer's place of business. Ours was four years old when they repaired it. Not a problem since.

Orv

[jrgwdenner]

P.J., have you ever been evaluated for a flex frame problem? Those cracks can show up when some of the welds have broken.

Glen said that the bolts are 1/2 inch in diameter, 2 1/4 inch long. Glen had to cut off a 3 inch bolt because that was all that was available. He also said to get the hardened stainless steel. We now carry extras as they can break at any time.

Thanks for the memories!

[MIMF2]

PJ,

Those bolts you are talking about are for the 1" square cross shaft that extends from one gear pack assembly to the other. The dimensions of those are 1/4-20X2" zinc coated grade 8 bolts. That means they are 1/4" in diameter with 20 threads per inch and are 2" long. Naturally, the nuts are 1/4-20 nylok or are sometimes referred to as aircraft nuts.

Hope this is what you were looking for.

Dale

[paulrem]

Dale, can you use a lock washer and a regular nut on the bolt. Mine broke and that is what I used in replacing the bolt. My broken bolt was on the desk and fireplace slide. Once the slide started to move in crooked I stopped and moved it back out. Checked the underside of the slide and found the bolt head laying on the ground. Went to Lowes and found what I needed and fixed it. If I need to change the nut on the bolt I will. Hope this it works.

Paul

[patodonn]

Dale: Thanks..I do not have the 1/4-20 nyloks, just the "standard" 1/4-20s. Do I need to get the nylocs? How tight should I torque the nuts?

Also, if you have a chance, any other comments re the crack (picture)? Customer Service at Keystone said they have never had a frame failure at that area. I am suspicious of "never".

Thanks

[sreigle]

Pat, an identical crack was pretty common in 2002 and earlier (and maybe some 2003) models but it was at the bedroom slide on the front bedroom models. That's near the overhang area where there is more flexing. The fix on later models was to install a flex strip (darn it, I've forgotten what it is called) right where that crack is. And that's how they fixed those with the problem. However, I've never heard of this on any slide farther aft than those front bedroom slides so I don't know if your situation is the same or if the problem is more serious.

[MIMF]

Paul and PJ, The nuts you have are ok. You may want to consider using lock washers if you want. But, the most critical spec is that they are grade 8. As far as how tight? That doesn't matter. The one end of the cross shaft is 3/4" square. You will not be able to get the nut to tighten against the side of the tube, anyway. It will only tighten down to the shoulder of the bolt assuming the bolt is 2" in length.

Dale

[patodonn]

Thanks, All. After our "vacation" is over in mid-May, we will take Ms. Monty into a dealer for an evaluation. (My $$ - and probably pretty pricey). Already contacted Team Montana with a "heads up" and will coordinate with them after the dealer's findings are in. My "gut feel" is that it will be a minor fix, and that there is a 50-50 chance that Keystone will assist in the $, and certainly will provide info/guidance in needed, to the dealer.

I'll let you all know how it works out. Thanks again for the inputs