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Old 12-24-2006, 11:06 AM   #1
JimF
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Landing Gear on 3400

Has anyone considered putting an additional powerhead on the landing gear and dual controls for ease of leveling? I find it a real pain that the current landing gear is interconnected and I have to do a shimming act to get the two side even if on a slope.

If there is an easier way to level the front I would sure like to know it, but I am thinking an independent gear drive would be the best answer.

I was watching the ease a guy in a Cedar Creek had leveling his compaired to what I was having to do.

Any good answers or suggestions would sure be appreciated.

Thanks and have a Merry Christmas.

 
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Old 12-24-2006, 11:36 AM   #2
indy roadrunner
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I don't know about that Jim. I am thinking you might be opening up a situation to twist the frame. I know when I had a class A you could put the jacks down and level up by adusting individual jacks but the frame on a class A is much different than the Monty. I think that is one of the reasons you have "stabilizers" in the back and they tell you to just snug them up. If you try leveling with them - there is trouble in your future.
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Old 12-24-2006, 12:53 PM   #3
richfaa
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we just release both front landing gear while still attached to the truck and let them fall where they may (usually on blocks) then we raise the gear till the pins snap into place on the individual landing gear ( inspect to make sure the pins are secure).That lets them find there own level..side to side.. then raise to unhook, then level front to back. That is of course after you have leveled via boards or whatever.
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Old 12-24-2006, 12:55 PM   #4
ols1932
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I usually drop my landing gear to the lowest point closest to the ground where the pin can still be reinserted. If there is a larger gap on one side than the other, I just use a thickness of board that I carry for that purpose. This avoids any severe frame twisting.

Orv
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Old 12-24-2006, 01:14 PM   #5
ken
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I usually do thesame as every one else when lowering the front stablizers. I do use 6x6 blocks on the ground below the front and rear jacks. I lower the extensions down to the blocks. Then come up two or three pin holes before I reinsert the pin. I then adjust one leg plate up or down to match the other side with an adjustable insert that I bought at Campers World. Then I lower the jacks evenly to set on the blocks. That way there is no tension on the frame or jacks. The adjustable leg mounts on the leg of the jack and is pinned as the plates are. The existing plate is then attached to the adjustable leg mount. I have had this one on two different Montanas. Wouldn't leave home without it. The rear jacks are used strictly for stablization, not for weight of the RV.
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Old 12-24-2006, 03:07 PM   #6
JimF
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Humm, I still see some adjustments, etc., going on from the offered setup procedures. I was watching a guy with a Cedar Creek that has a dual drive landing gear, he ran each leg down some, dropped the adjustable leg till they touch the ground then pushes the dual drive button and the unit comes up evenly, no movement on the side to side bubble level. I have been using the drop the leg and shim evenly and each time the bubble goes off center and the door drags or jams due to frame torque. I am looking for a smooth set up.

I do appreciate the offered techniques, I have not tried the one offered by Ken. I will run out to campers world and get one of the leg mounts and see how that does. I have to admit it is a lot cheaper than a new landing gear, lot less labor also.

Thanks everyone.

Happy Holidays.
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Old 12-24-2006, 04:15 PM   #7
LonnieB
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I run the landing gear down about 4 inches, drop the leg extensions onto a 2 X 6 block, then raise each leg extension until the pin snaps into place. If 1 leg is off the block more than about 1/4 inch from the other one, I pull the pin on the shorter leg, raise it and add a 2 X 6 to that side. I then drop that leg again, and raise it back up until the pin snaps in again. This has worked everytime I have done it, without fail. The reason I lower the legs about 4 inches before dropping the extensions, is in case the front of the trailer needs to be lowered below it's position when it was on the fifth wheel plate.

I hope that's clearer than mud.
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Old 12-24-2006, 07:20 PM   #8
Montana Sky
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Another great feature of those "other brand" 5th wheels. Maybe if we ask enough times we can get Keystone to step up and add it to the list of standard features on the Montana...........
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Old 12-25-2006, 05:15 AM   #9
sreigle
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Jim, I use a poor man's solution to the problem. Camping World offers an adjustable landing gear adapter. I drop one side and lower the leg until it snaps in. I drop the other side, the one with the adjustable leg, and **raise** it until it snaps in place. Then I just rotate the foot downwards until it touches down. Then I use the switch to raise the coach. I've used this on three fifthwheels over almost 6 years. Works great.

http://www.campingworld.com/browse/s...17329&src=SRQB



Also, I've found that if I lower the legs first, to just a couple of inches from the blocks, we are far more stable in the rig. You'd have to allow for terrain where you need to lower the nose below the position when hitched.

I tried just dropping them and not getting them both on the blocks and had the same twist that caused the door to stick, etc. I prefer to not add that stress to the frame. Just my preference.
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Old 12-25-2006, 05:40 AM   #10
skypilot
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The guy in the Cedar Creek probably had the hydraulic gear they are putting in starting late last year. As I posted in another thread, even with the leveling foot like what Steve showed (above), it seems like the ground sinks a bit, or something happens and we are still a little off. The guys with the hydraulics didn't seem to have that problem but then again, I only saw them at football tailgates so very short time. Were much faster in transition (up and down movement) though. But, my wife was very quick to remind me, do we have to be somewhere ???????
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Old 12-28-2006, 05:46 AM   #11
JimF
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Thanks Steve, appreciate it...
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Old 12-28-2006, 12:38 PM   #12
MIMF
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HUH, I'm happy with those hydraulic legs on the front of my "Challambridge"! I don't worry about uneven ground, shims, frame twist or anything else. When both foot pads hit the ground, the hydraulic pressure inside each leg cylinder equalizes and lifts both sides of the coach straight up at the same time. I'll never have another coach with out them!

Now, the idea of two electric motor driven legs is a good one and does work. You have a switch for each motor. It is doable on any of your units, gang. It has been done on other manufactured units. Especially big heavy toy haulers.

Just my 2 cents.
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