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Old 01-24-2022, 07:26 AM   #1
LaMont13
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Grey tank lever won't open

I have a 2013 Keystone Montana 3402RL 5th Wheel.
I can't pull the lever to my grey tank to empty it. I thought it might be frozen but the black tank lever pulled open fine. I can get it to move about 1/2" to 1" then it stops hard. It feels like something very hard so I thought maybe it is iced up, so I put a heater on it for a few hours and it is still the same. I am not sure how to get access to the valve to replace it?
 
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Old 01-25-2022, 04:22 AM   #2
RMcNeal
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Valve is at the tank. You would need to pull the coroplast to gain access from underneath.
Maybe if it is a cable style, the cable is rusted and/or stuck in the sheath? Have you tried spraying WD-40 in the sheath and working the pull handle?
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Old 01-26-2022, 11:31 AM   #3
LaMont13
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I have not tried that but I certainly will. I can only see the "T" lever that opens the valve but I can spray that then try and work it but with only being able to move 1" (best case) I am not sure the lube will get to the stuck area.

It seems like something else because when I pull it the little bit that I can it stop because of what seems to be something hard. I was guessing that the valve (sliding part) is not aligned?

Is the coroplast hard to remove to gain access to the valve?
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Old 01-26-2022, 12:20 PM   #4
RMcNeal
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Not really. Yours actually may have screws instead of nails which would be even easier. If it is nailed, they can be pulled using a small pry bar and then replaced with self tapping screws.
You could also cut a small access hole, but given a choice, I would not.
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Old 01-26-2022, 12:31 PM   #5
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Unscrew the handle, take an 18 inch piece of 1/2 inch clear tubing and hose clamp it to the nut holding the cable to the wall. Pour some oil in the tubing and let it sit over night.
Mark the tubing with a sharpie at the level of the oil when you fill it. The oil will wick up the cable housing. Works like a charm and you don't need to cut the coroplast.
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Old 01-26-2022, 12:32 PM   #6
Carl n Susan
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As long as it is the black or shower tank, this isn't that tough. Drop the coroplast at the rear of the drop down frame. It only takes a couple of feet to access the valves.

Here are some links to those who have gone before you with this problem. Search is your friend.
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=77401
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=77720
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=76577
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Old 01-30-2022, 07:22 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by RMcNeal View Post
Not really. Yours actually may have screws instead of nails which would be even easier. If it is nailed, they can be pulled using a small pry bar and then replaced with self tapping screws.
You could also cut a small access hole, but given a choice, I would not.
That's strange that you would rather either unscrew or pry off a few dozen screws/nails and then re-attach the entire coroplast rather than cutting a 3 sided hole and after taping with the special scrim tape for the belly.
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Old 01-30-2022, 07:32 PM   #8
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The issue with accessing the valves through a hole is 1). Itís tough to know where to cut, 2) You always need room to work. Itís relatively easy to replace the valves on an empty tank. On a full one, not so easy. You can probably snake a hose into the tank and pump it out. Once you access the valve directly, you should be able to remove the cable and operate it manually. Iíd explore the lubrication techniques first.
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Old 01-30-2022, 07:46 PM   #9
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The issue with accessing the valves through a hole is 1). Itís tough to know where to cut, 2) You always need room to work. Itís relatively easy to replace the valves on an empty tank. On a full one, not so easy. You can probably snake a hose into the tank and pump it out. Once you access the valve directly, you should be able to remove the cable and operate it manually. Iíd explore the lubrication techniques first.
I know where to cut because I can see them by taking down the basement wall. I already had a good idea based on the location of the valves. Now when I say cut a hole, I mean one big enough to work in, maybe 4 or 5 ft wide, and a similar length front to back. As long as the flap is to the front it can't blow open and the scrim tape I use is super sticky and reinforced, it is what the RV shops use for repairs. All this assumes it is a valve replacement, if the tank needs to come out then I would have a dealer do it.
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Old 02-27-2022, 11:22 AM   #10
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It’s happened to us on a new unit just gets some help and pull it out if you can’t try and taking it apart probably water got into it and it’s rusted
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Old 02-27-2022, 04:23 PM   #11
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Same problem on the black tank valve on my 2020 fifth wheel trailer. Had to replace the valve and cable assembly. It was replaced under my $0 deductible extended service contract. Shop cost was $300 labor plus $55 for Valterra-TC372 Flexible Cable Kit with 3" Valve, Mess-Free Waste Valve.
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Old 02-28-2022, 07:10 AM   #12
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Here's how to lube and help to avoid rust on the dump T handles:

1. Empty all tanks.
2. Turn the T handle so the handle axis is horizontal.
3. Drill a small hole above the shaft, into the section where the sliding gate is, only large enough for a for a lube spray rod.
4. Put the sprayer in the hole, spray lube, move handle in/out, repeat.
5. Temporarily seal the hole with a short screw that is slightly larger than the hole.
6. To lube again, remove screw, lube, reinsert screw.
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Old 04-04-2022, 05:05 PM   #13
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Worth repeating 'cause it works - I think I saw this on the forum someplace so "thanks!" to whoever posted it first.


Get a 2 foot length of 1/2 inch clear tubing. Remove the "T" handle from the end of the cable. Slip one end of the clear tubing over the shaft and screw it over the exposed threads that come through the wall. If you don't have enough exposed threads, remove the nut that secures the assembly to the wall or frame being careful not to let it slip away. Put a hose clamp over the tubing and snug it down. Holding the tubing vertical, slowly fill it with a squirt bottle filled with penetrating fluid and let gravity go to work. If it is truly stuck leave it for a week or 2 checking the level in the tube and adding as needed.


When mine start to get hard to pull, I do this as maintenance with a product called "Strike Hold" that not only penetrates but leaves residual lubrication. A tube full of lubricant will run into the cable in just a few minutes. Works wonders.

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