Sewer Boom Removal

[smfdva]

Anybody removed their sewer boom? I thought it would be great, but everytime I go to reconnect at next stop the hose is full of, well everything, and stinks very bad. I have read this is a problem that all booms have no matter on which model or manufactured camper. I want to remove mine a then configure a way to store the hose in a PVC pipe. Not sure how to mount the PVC to my 5ver. The Montana 3455SA has no storage for the hose since you were suppose to use the Lippert boom. Any ideas and pictures appreciated!

[billc1949]

I removed ours and replaced it with a 46 in EZ Hose Carrier at CW and use it to store the sewer hose.

Bill C

[dieselguy]

You bet I jettisoned that engineering marvel ... not ... I just installed a plastic door found at about any RV dealer in the lower sheet metal like my two previous Montana's and stored it like the days of old. The sheet metal forms a pocket between the frame and sheet metal. I do have a PVC tube under my fiver, but it is used for rug storage. Some have used all thread bent around the tube bolted to the frame ... others plumbers strap.
On a side note, some have added yet another valve ahead of the PVC connection to the hose itself, ... it's suposed to work to keep the vision of the "Clampets" driving down the road with fluid dripping out of the boom, but I just flat didn't care for the boom.

[Carl n Susan]

The real problem is the length of the sewer pipes and the lack of slope. They seem to hold liquid even after dumping which shows up as a "surprise" the next time you take the cap off the hose or the pipe (if you remove the boom). The first thing you need to do is add a twist off gate valve. This will stop the surprises. Do this even if you remove the boom. You will need to trim off about 6" of the flex tube at the connection of the boom to the sewer pipe to allow sufficient room for the gate valve.

As for hose storage after you remove the boom, well there are lots of options. The favorite are:

* Cut a hole in the siding and install a sewer door assembly (available at CW and elsewhere). You can then stuff hoses and other stinky stuff into a black hole where screw heads (holding the coroplast to the frame) will try to poke holes.

* Bolt PVC pipe or 5" square PVC fence posts under the frame using self-tapping screws and fender washers.

Personally I have added the gate valve, retained the boom, use a 15' hose with a clear connector at the end and find it works over 90% of the time. I also carry extra hose in a plastic tub which I use to extend the reach for those rare times I need it. The boom is the most convenient setup by far when it reaches with the 15' hose. And the few times it hasn't, adding a length of hose is easy.

[HOOK]

I removed the flex pipe and boom tube . Purchased a longer tube with a door on both ends from CW, to replace the short one. Then I purchased the longest tube CW sells and used double sided tape from 3M and stuck it to the frame rail lengthwise in the channel. Also added the slide valve at sewer outlet. Very useful mod and seems much better to have all sewer hoses in outside storage. All very easily done. Larry

[NCFischers]

If you are looking for u bolts, look up the Dale Company on the internet. They sell all kinds of u bolts at a reasonable price. I put two 6 inch tubes under the trailer, one for a ladder and one for an additional sewer hose.

[DQDick]

On our rig the issue is that where the bend to the boom is there is a low spot. When I dump before a trip, I lift up on that area and drain it completely. Since I started that I've had very little or no leakage.

[Lee F.]

I solved any leakage problem by putting a cap on the end of the sewer hose before pushing it back into the boom. when I take it out I hold the end up, remove the cap and attach a clear gate valve. I never have a spill problem. I think this actually works better than attaching directly to the drain from the camper because you can raise the end before removing the cap.

[navybanker]

Someone on this forum suggested placing a plastic "bucket" (wedge it to the bottom) just left of the propane tank on the driver's side and placing both ends of the sewer hose in the bucket. The bucket must be large enough it won't go out the bottom. The remainder of the hose sticks up inside the compartment. I tried this one year and 5,000 miles ago and works great. There are holes in the bottom of the bucket. The boom is disconnected. I think the bucket is really a plastic flower pot. Also added a valve at the end of the camper's sewer drain pipe to hold those surprises. Works for me!

[smfdva]

Removed pipe and cover and exposed hose within boom. As suggested, installed gate valve between hose and hard pipe connection. Hose was replaced with Rhinoflex hose with clear connection on discharge end. Had to cut off about 8" of the flexible hose cover to accomodate the new valve, but works perfectly now with no mess. Easy fix to keep junk from draining into hose going down road. The fancy little boom may actually be worth using now! Thanks!

[Recumbent]

No boom, but we use alot of water when flushing, have a hollow bumper on the Monty (old but still a good idea)and stick the sewer hose in there. Put a twist-on gate valve perminently on the black sewer drain line. Next we have a clear twist-on connector then sewer hose then threaded elbow for CG connect. Always lift and walk the sewer line to the CG connect. Store the clear twist-on and elbow in a 5gal bucket with the lid on in basement. Wash hands using disinfectant and all is well.