Furnace - Page 2 - Montana Owners Club

Ozz · 12-04-2011, 02:07 AM

How do George's time compare to the rest of you folks? I haven't used my furnace this year, so I don't know, but as I remember the furnaces cycle about like that example George gave.
Dick had a good idea, take the thermostat off the wall and insulate behind it. Then see what it does.

Phil P · 12-04-2011, 05:12 AM

Hi

George ours does cycle often but defiantly it runs much longer at a time than the times you have.

Ozz do you think it could be a duct overheat switch? I think there is one near the heater warm air outlet just before where the ductwork is connected?

George do you get a good airflow at all of your outlets?

Ozz my experience is on aircraft heaters that work the same way just different fuel. 100 Octane gas or Jet A1.

Phil P

Ozz · 12-04-2011, 06:20 AM

Phil, I think if that switch ended the cycle it would go into a lockout and would have to be reset. Some just cycle and some lock-out. Just depends on the programming on the operating circuit board.
His seems to be an operating control (thermostat) rather than a safety.
After George insulates behind the thermostat, we will see if that cures the problem of short-cycling. Some thermostats have an adjustable cycling rate. The old Honeywell T-87 round residential 'stats had a movable indicator on a small triangular shaped wire wrap, you just move the indicator one way or the other, and the cycle changed. It was a very small resistance heater.

Paddler · 12-04-2011, 07:12 AM

We are also experiencing a furnace problems...only ours is a gas flow problem. Seems the free flow preventer in the pigtail connected to the gas bottle is shutting off our gas. I have to go out an do the reset the free flow preventer dance every 3rd time the furnace turns on. Anyone have a pair of the old (pre free flow preventer) pigtails they would like to sell me???

mhs4771 · 12-04-2011, 08:21 AM

Maybe that's the thought behind all these safety features. Makes it so you can't draw any propane from the tanks. I bought a 12 foot extention for my Grille from CW, had to return it as it would let an gas get to the grille. Still using my old hose, clamped to the proper fittings on each end, works everytime, can't say the same for the new ones. As to the short cycle, ours did some when we first got the unit, but thanks to the MOC I pulled the T-stat and blocked up that huge hole behind it. Seems to work fine now.

K&Gs3400RL · 12-04-2011, 04:05 PM

There are 4 vents Bedroom, Kitchen and two in the living area three of them seam to have more air flow than the one next to the kitchen cabinet it seams weak to me.
The hole behind the thermostat is only about the size of a quarter but I will try and insulate behind it. I will let you know what happens.

K&Gs3400RL · 12-05-2011, 04:39 PM

Pulled all 4 vents today and looked inside with a flashlight and mirror found two pieces of aluminum from the build that were left in there, I got one out but could not reach the other, But I dont think its big enough to cause problems.
Tried the insulation in the wall behind the thermo, no help on that either. Pulled the thermo off the wall and put it in the closet where no airflow could get to it. Thinking that might help but it wasn't.
I called Atwood service, and talked to a Tech, they told me to check the voltage on the first white wire on the circut board, It should be no lower than 10.5 volts But now I gotta find my tester. Its somewhere packed up. They mentioned Breaks or bends in the ducting, and blockage in the vents. Told them I had already checked that. They also mentioned gas pressure. Reading another thread I thought maybe changing the pressure regulator But I checked and its 30psi But maybe a bad line? I added a six foot line so I could use an external 100# tank maybe I should put the old line back on and and try that. But first I will check the voltage.

jimcol · 12-06-2011, 01:14 AM

George, Your post jolted my memory about the ducting from when I first got my 5'er. Just beyond the first vent out of the furnace, in the flat duct feeding the lower level of our unit, there is a piece of sheet metal attached. (you have to use a flashlight, mirror, and stand on your head to see it) I was concerned it was restricting air flow. In talking to the service manager he said that was put there on purpose to direct some of the airflow to that first duct. Without it all the air would rush to the last vent on that duct run. It made sense to me, the 5'er heats good, so I persued it no further. Jim

K&Gs3400RL · 12-06-2011, 02:59 PM

Found out today Atwood is sending a New Control Box for the A/C it should be here Monday Guess we wait to see what happens.

Ozz · 12-07-2011, 02:17 AM

George, sounds like they are on it. Your furnace problem seems to be an easy to solve, but with these things, you never know. Keep us informed. Make sure the control box they send matches up with your thermostat, I bet they asked which one you have, so you should be OK.

K&Gs3400RL · 12-07-2011, 03:25 PM

Went thru a 100# tank of propane in 8 days I changed it on the 29th and we ran out this morning, should be almost out again by the time they fix this on Tuesday at the rate were going. That is if the part makes it on Monday. Wonder why the did not send it over night?

Ozz · 12-08-2011, 03:45 AM

All this should be covered by your warr. (I guess the propane wouldn't..) sometimes they have the part, but other jobs get moved in front of yours. Keep calling them. Noisy wheel gets the grease first....
I don't know why you are using more Propane than usual, all that is burned is being converted to heat, it would take the same amount of propane to heat your tailer?

K&Gs3400RL · 12-16-2011, 04:51 PM

Well they came out yesterday morning to fix it, Ooooops wrong part. So they came back out today with the right one. And well it's still doing it. So far they have changed the thermostat, the limit switch and now the control board. I checked the ducting inside the trailer and the 6" and two 3" lines coming out of the heater for blockage and holes in the ducting even straitened and shortened them so there were less bends in them where I could. The only one I cant check is the one that comes out of the bottom of the heater and goes to the lower ducting. I have also insulated behind the thermostat. So Now we wait, again to see what they try next.

Ozz · 12-17-2011, 03:05 AM

Parts changers, not service men. Is it the short cycling that is not fixed, or the noise? Ot both..?

Phil P · 12-17-2011, 05:42 AM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by Ozz

Parts changers, not service men.

I second that.

Phil P

K&Gs3400RL · 12-20-2011, 01:03 PM

The noise I can live with, in fact it doesn't bother me as much now. But I do have a few ideas Im going to try later on. And I don't think there is anything they will do or can do about the noise level. But No the short cycling is still not fixed but according to them there working on it.

K&Gs3400RL · 12-22-2011, 11:06 AM

Well they have spent the last two mornings here trying different things, Still cant figure it out. Now there saying it could be electronic interference from something in the neighborhood. ??????? They want us to Move the trailer somewhere and see if it still does it. Not a Happy full timer right now.

mhs4771 · 12-22-2011, 11:34 AM

Having worked in RF Electronics for way too many years. Any type of interference would cause intermittent or eradic operation. If it's constantly short cycling it's not interference unless you're being hit by a very very slow Airport Radar, extremely doubtful. How about it Ozz, up for a road trip to help a fellow MOCer out (LOL).
OK, this thought is way out there, but since nothing else seems to work. I assume you have the dual zone T-stat, is it possible that they have reversed the remote sensors? After thinking for a second, I doubt it as you would have to have the second AC to even have the Zone 2 sensor connected, but if you do have the second AC you might want them to double check that everything is connected as it should be with the DIP Switches in the correct positions. I said it was a crazy thought, but we're grasping at straws here. Good luck and hope you get the problem resolved.

Ozz · 12-22-2011, 12:04 PM

Michelle, I wish I was close, I love a challenge. I suggest a different repair company, fresh eyes and all that.
If I remember correctly if George runs the t'stat up real high, it stays on until he shuts it back down.
I changed my thermostat, when I did, I had to change the control board. It was a complicated deal, had to be sober when I did it.

The problem may lie there, non-compatible parts, wiring maybe not correct... wish I knew George. I would call another factory authorized service company, I also would contact the mfg. and talk to the service department, they will help.

K&Gs3400RL · 12-23-2011, 03:21 PM

Well its fixed, But it's a bandaid job for now. Spent 3 hrs out here this morning and nothing worked so he disconnected the digital thermostat and re-wired an old school thermostat directly to the Heater, and bypassing the Air conditioner and the Control board. Till after the first of the year. Then he will be back with a New Plan. Now its working what I would call normal. It comes on for 5 to 10 min and is off for 15 to 20 min or longer, Not keeping exact times but its not on off on off anymore. Now I can get some sleep.

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