Slides stops working

[Montana_4765]

I have 2006 3500RL. Whenever I try to close the slides, I get almost to the thrid slide and the motor stops.After waiting for a few seconds, I can operate the slide to continue closing. This happens almost every time. Any ideas?
Thanks for your help in advance.

[steves]

Are you running off shore power or battery?

Is your reservoir filled to full mark when slide are closed?

[Montana_4765]

quote:Originally posted by steves

Are you running off shore power or battery?

Is your reservoir filled to full mark when slide are closed?

Yes I do run the slides while still hooked up to shore power.

When closed my reservior is to the full mark.

[Montana Sky]

Sounds like a bigger breaker is needed... I do not remember the specific's, but Dale had talked about it awhile back. Something about tripping the overload on the slide switch....

[MIMF2]

palakiko,

Let's try a couple things to correct this problem. We'll start with the simple things first.

First, the fluid level in the reservoir needs to be 1/2" from the top of the tank with the rooms all RETRACTED. Don't pay any attention to "fill lines" on the side of the reservoir. They don't exsist! If you need to add fluid to the tank to get it to about 1/2" from the top, simply use ATF DexronIII/Mercon. Go to Walmart and look for the blue bottles. It is the cheapest crap in town and it will work just fine! Don't pay any attention to the difference in colors between what is in your tank and the ATF. They will blend.

Next, disconnect the ground to your battery after you have unhooked all other power supplies to the coach. Such as the shore cord and the bargeman connector at your tow vehicle. I don't want you getting zapped. Get the tools to check all of the electrical connections to the pump. Especially the four nuts on the Trombetta solenoid switch. Three of them will all be side by side in a row on top of it and the fourth will be on the side. Once you have gone thru and checked all of the connection at the pump and the battery, go ahead and hook up the ground from the battery to the chassis. I think what is happening here is the pump motor is drawing high amperage from the battery because there is a loose connection somewhere in the circuitry.

If you where having a problem with the circuit breaker popping, you probably should replace it. Because, everytime it pops, it gets weaker. That breaker should be a 50 amp auto reset 12 volt breaker. It probably doesn't come close to being rated at 50 amps any more if it has been snapping open.

After you have gone thru all this and replaced the breaker and if it is still popping, an amperage draw test needs to be done on the pump motor. It is not uncommon to find the motor drawing 50 to 70 amps. If it is drawing 60, 70, or 80 amps another auto reset breaker can be added in parallel to the 50. Or an 80 amp 12 volt manual reset can go in inplace of the 50 amp auto reset.

It is possible there could be a fault in the pump motor. Especially if an amperage draw test reveals 90 or more amps draw. In that case, we will entertain completely swapping the pump as a last resort. But, we don't need to get in a big hurry to that yet because warranty will cover everything for 5 years from the date your coach was built.

If you need further help, give me a call.

Dale

[patodonn]

Dale:

Great explanation, but there is one "puzzle" for me...I've always thought a "circuit breaker" looked like a ...well, a circuit breaker...sort of like a light switch, and mounted in the circuit breaker box along with all the others.

I assume the ones you are talking about here are the red covered "things" mounted in the front compartment on the wall behind the battery(ies). No switches to "reset"..it is all automatic.....correct?

A year ago, when I first started looking for those "circuit breakers" from an earlier description, I probably wasted an hour of time and a year's frustration looking on the circuit breaker panel for them.

Best,

[MIMF2]

PJ,

Yes. I'm sorry. You are correct. The circuit breaker for the pump will always be located within 18" of the battery(ies).

The easiest way to locate it would be to go to the Trombetta solenoid switch. As I said, the are three large caliber terminals standing side by side in a row pointing straight up. The one in the center is the postive 12 volt supply from the battery(ies). Start at that terminal and follow that 6 ga. lead to where ever it goes back toward the battery(ies). At some point, you should bump into a little black box with those red thingy's. At the other end of that red thingy, is another lead that will go on down to the battery(ies).

By the way, those red thingy"s are insulators. They cover or protect the terminals to protect from "shocks and shorts". But, that could be a whole other topic.

Hope this helped. That is something I just assumed every body knew. Sorry. This explaination is something I need to incorporate more often.

Dale

[dbrill]

We had the same problem, our dealer replaced the breaker under warranty and we have not had the problem since. On a 2006 you should still be under warranty so give your dealer a call.

[Montana_4765]

Dale
Followed your instructions to the letter. Tightened all connections and replaced the breaker ( the black box under the red thingy ) and everything seems just fine.
Thanks so much for the great advise. Really glad you are on the team.
Take care
Palakiko

[MIMF2]

Palakiko,

Good deal!! That is exactly what I wanted to hear! If you need any help again or have any questions, you know where I am.

Dale

[cs413]

Dale-(MIMF2) I read your post to palakiko and I always thought my fluid level was low in the resevoir, but I ASSUMED (oops - there I go again using that word) the dealer checked the levels at pre-delivery. Well with all slides retracted I was barely above half full. So I ran to WALLET MART and picked up a quart of the Dexron 111 and used about 28 ounces of the quart to fill between 1/2 and 3/4" from the top. I also started checking the connections on the pump and found the ground nut was not even hand tightened. I tightened that up. I have not had any problems yet, but it looks like you helped me prevent some future problems. Thank you for all your great advice and help. I also had posted a while back about a squeaky slideout and you said to lubricate the rollers which is what I did and now they are so quiet. I sure hope Lippert realizes the excellent customer service you provide for them to this forum.
Thank you again,
Curt

One other note - thank you patodonn for asking the circuit breaker question. That was my next post. I thought the blocks under the red insulators were just conector blocks. I'm really glad to know they are the circuit breakers. I'm going back out and have another look at them.

[steves]

Dale, where can we get those circuit breakers? RV dealer only or at an auto supply store? Thanks for technical run through.

[RKassl]

I had this same exact problem last year while under warranty. I printed Dale's information about two 50's in parallel. The service manager was VERY receptive to the assistance. It fixed the problem and have not had it happen again.

The service manager is a stand up guy, instead of being offended, he said we all learned something today.

Our board is invaluable, as it has been said before with folks like Dale with Lippert, and other folks with years of experience here, we can solve anything!

Happy Camping!

[MIMF2]

steves,

You should be able to pick up one of those 12 volt 50 amp auto reset breakers at about any auto parts store.

As for the rest of you good people, thank you very much for all of the kind words! As I have said numerous times before, it's all in a days work. Besides, the more educating I do, the easier my job will become.

Thanks again,
Dale

[Wrenchtraveller]

I have to add my appeciation for the information that Dale posts. Thanks again.

[capn chris]

I just printed Dale's advice, including how to find the breaker! My large slide on my '05 2955RL recently exhibited same symptoms...stopping part way coming in. Will do the checks suggested. Great help, Dale! BTW folks, Dale called me last fall to explain the Dexron color thing. Very helpful, indeed!!!