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Old 04-09-2006, 06:13 PM   #1
Garin1
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M.O.C. #2773
slider piston

This is directed to Dale but any advice is gladly accepted. I was checking under the slides today and found rust on the slide piston for the kitchen slide. What is the best way to remove this without damaging the piston any further?
 
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Old 04-10-2006, 01:43 AM   #2
rvfirefighter
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I found a small amount on my unit, I was warned by a friend who found rust on his also, I put some metal protectant on mind hopefully to prevent any more. This is also something that owners should investigate before damage is bad enough to cause leaking of the hydraulic cylinder and other problems.
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Old 04-10-2006, 10:12 AM   #3
Garin1
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Thanks David, I was hoping someone could tell me how to remove the existing rust without damaging the piston. I am afraid if I rub to hard with some type of abrasive(sink scrubber,light steel wool, etc) I might damage the sealing surface.
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Old 04-10-2006, 12:29 PM   #4
sreigle
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Gary, if you don't hear from Dale right away you can call him at --

Dale Brubaker - 866-524-7821 Lippert 866-524-7821 ext 4542 toll free
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Old 04-10-2006, 01:55 PM   #5
keham
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The shinny surface part? If so try light wiping with hyd damping rag if it is just slight surface and comes right off. Your OK, but if it doesn't, make them replace as the plating will pit and cause leaking most likely about time warranty is over. Another test take finger nail and go over the area if feels even the lightest resistance make them replace as those thing will keep getting worse. I have repaired many hyd cylinders but to do it right with emery cloth and polishes is tedious. but only very very little can be taken off before the smallest leaks can happen, depends on pressure. I sure would not want it leaking even a little in and area when the slid is closed and you can't see it until the damage is done. small drips add up.

PS Jewel rouge works but they rag needs to be around the shaft to remove (only if it the surface is not ruff pitted)do not go forth and aft. along the shaft need to go around the shaft. and go very lightly. If me I would make them change it out.
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Old 04-10-2006, 02:23 PM   #6
MIMF2
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Gary,

It will all depend on how deep the rust is. Those shafts are polished stainless steel. It is not a high grade of stainless but, stainless none-the-less.

I would try wipping the shaft with, yup, none other than WD-40! If it still feels rough to the touch with the finger tips, chances are that it may need to be replaced eventually. The seals around those shafts do have a certain amount of flexibility. They have to do to minor imperfections that may occure when machined. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it that much until you actually see it dripping. After all, if your coach has our systems in it, they are covered for five years from DOM and will be replaced.

Does your coach spend most of it's time with the rooms out?

Again everybody, if your unit is subjected to salty air or roads, all the more reason to wipe those shafts down every so often when extended to sea air in particular. When a coach is stored with the rooms in, the portion of the shaft that really matters, is already submerged in the fluid inside the cylinder.

Any other questions, let me know.

Dale
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Old 04-10-2006, 03:06 PM   #7
lightningjack11
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Good advice Dale.

I always keep my exposed metal covered with a thin film of oil.

Even though the stainless shaft is a little rusted/pitted it shouldn't affect operation. I have been told that it just attaches to a piston/ring assembly and as long as their ok it shouldn't leak.
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Old 04-10-2006, 04:51 PM   #8
keham
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Fluid goes to each side of that piston and on retraction fluid pressure is on the same side of piston as the rod is attached to. Causing the rod to retract pulling side in and then when switched released that pressure holds the slides in thru fluid lock. Hitting open switch valve opens and pump pressurizes the other side causing the slides to go out and the fluid on the retraction side (rod side) returns to reservoir. there is a piston seal and the end seal the rod passes thru it keeps fliud in. if piston seal fails piston doesn't move if barrel seal fails fliud leaks out around the rod on to what ever it above. carpet floors belly of camper. so is important to keep rod clean and oiled so as not to rust or get scracthed by dirt build up,
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Old 04-11-2006, 02:08 AM   #9
Garin1
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Thanks Dale. Yea, They staey out most of the time. Had I been home I could have prevented this. Alas, I will do my best to effect a fix. Thanks everyone. Dale, can I call you about another problem I posted about this same slide??
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Old 04-12-2006, 01:25 PM   #10
MIMF2
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Garin1, absolutely pm or call me at my desk. 866-524-7821.
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:34 PM   #11
sreigle
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by MIMF2

Gary,

Dale
Dale, is that Date of Manufacture of the shaft, of the assembly, or the Montana? If one of the first two, how do we find that date?

Thanks.
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:40 PM   #12
sreigle
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by MIMF2

Gary,

Dale
Dale, is that Date of Manufacture of the shaft, of the assembly, or the Montana? If one of the first two, how do we find that date?

Thanks.
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Old 04-22-2006, 02:23 AM   #13
MIMF2
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Steve, when I refer to DOM and DOP, I am talking about the date of manufacture of the Montana and the date it was purchased by the original owner.

Dale
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Old 04-23-2006, 12:55 PM   #14
sreigle
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Thanks, Dale. You said five years from DOM. I assume that is DOM of the hydraulic assembly. How does one find that date? Our Montana will be four years old in July so five year dates are becoming of interest to me.
Thanks.
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