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Old 11-20-2013, 11:42 AM   #21
c214dick
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I had a similar problem separating the head of the hitch from the rest of it. Easy to remove but a pain to re-install as the pin just fits the hole and required a steady hand to keep it aligned and a hammer to tap it in place. My method works for me, good luck with yours.
 
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Old 11-20-2013, 12:23 PM   #22
mach111
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Not to steal thread from Rainer but I wanted to "run this idea by you guys." On my B & W Companion head I attach two locks in place of pins at head when I unhook. Got to thinking about some "dude" lifting the head while we shop at Walmart or someplace. Those heads could bring good prices at scrap yard. Locks can be cut with tools but locks may slow the thieves.
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Old 11-20-2013, 01:44 PM   #23
mlh
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I have a B W Companion. I take it apart then I go to the shop and get Chris. At 6 foot 5 and 240 pounds its easy. I can do it by myself but why bother I'm 6 foot and 170 pounds. If you would like you can borrow him but you haft to feed him.
Lynwood
The thing I worry about is somebody uncoupling it while I'm parked so I lock the hitch leaver so it can't be.
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:43 PM   #24
Rainer
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by mlh
The thing I worry about is somebody uncoupling it while I'm parked so I lock the hitch leaver so it can't be.
I can't budge the hitch lever if the weight of my Monte is on it. I doubt if anyone else could either, since you'd probably bend the lever before it uncouples.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:55 AM   #25
Art-n-Marge
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That's caused by too much tension at the pin depending on how the load is carried, how you stop and other things that can cause the Monte load to stress the hitch pin. This is not always the case so checking the lever is a great idea. Lot's of clowns out there, who just might give that lever a tug after removing the locking pin. This possibility is also why many use a bed saver, too, for when they forget to check and when the mishap occurs some buffoon(s) will laugh their heads off thinking this is funny.

I like the idea of having a gorilla to help with the heavy work, but feeding them is expensive assuming they only work for food. So far my current method makes it so I can do it by myself and I'm only 5'9" and 170 lbs but I have the strength of someone 5'2" and 110 lbs.

Mach111, you've got some good thinking there. I have a lock at the locking pin so the lever cannot move until I want it to and a lock at the large cylinder at the hitch head/base - I used these a lot when towing professtionally. It's rare when the hitch is by itself (except when tooling around after dropping the Monte at its camp location). One of these days I'll have a means to use the locking pins at the four legs at the base for the best in security for the hitch. But it's a lot of keys to carry, ugh. I realize this only improves my odds to prevent theft and vandalism, but I just have to make it tougher than the next person.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:49 AM   #26
dieselguy
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Straying away from the hitch question ... I use these little items along with a couple of master locks ... one on one of the head pins ... the other on one of the base pins of my Curt hitch. http://www.etrailer.com/Locks/Reese/RP58093.html
Like anything else, if someone wants something of yours bad enough ... they'll figure out a way to take it ... these will just maybe slow them down enough that they decide not to try.

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Old 11-21-2013, 08:12 AM   #27
Art-n-Marge
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Those plates are what I need for the base's pins on the four legs that insert to the rails. My problem is that I have a Valley/Husky hitch and the pins are not the Reese style that has the recess around it. My pins have a hole where the clevis pin inserts and is a completely different style from what the plates can use. So now it's a matter that I have to buy the Reese style of pins, then these four hasps, then four locks. I'm just temporarily tired of buying more locks and needing another key to save or combination to remember.
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Old 11-21-2013, 11:28 AM   #28
dieselguy
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Art ... I dunno what a set of Reese pins cost, but if you have a friend or a friend of a friend that has access to a lathe ... have him cut grooves in the pins you have and offer a 12 pack or something for his time. I'd do it in a heartbeat but distance weighs heavy here. To keep honest people honest ... all you need is one lock ... reports of people pulling your rail pins are extremely few and far between.
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:58 PM   #29
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Replacements pins are less than 20 bucks since I don't know anyone with a lathe. I'd probably use at least two locks at the two front pins, just because I'd hate a mishap to occur if the other two were stolen. With locks in place I do check more often.
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Old 11-21-2013, 03:35 PM   #30
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Since I rarely use the bed of my truck for anything else anymore and I use it more for towing, it is easier to leave the hitch in the truck and just remove it when I need the bed. I also leave my generator in the bed chained to it with a big ole chain. May use the bed once or twice a year to haul stuff that takes up the whole bed.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:23 PM   #31
shovelhead86
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I just use my old Oliver tractor. Have to be careful with my jerky controls though.
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Old 11-24-2013, 04:35 PM   #32
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I have a superglide that is extremely heavy. I mounted a 12v ATV winch from Harbor Freight from the rafters in my garage. Bought it on sale. Lower it onto a furniture dolly (HF) also. All I do is push a button. I bought a plug that goes into my trailer connection to get power. The 12v was cheaper than the 110v.
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Old 12-11-2013, 03:35 AM   #33
TAKPAK
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I get the hitch loose, then simply drive my tractor up to the back and lift it out with the bucket! Of course, it does help to have a reason for the tractor, i.e. a farm!!!
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:36 AM   #34
MikenAngie
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Sad to say.........Grunt - Grab & Go. That won't happen much longer.
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