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Old 08-06-2022, 07:08 AM   #21
scott-pati
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I used fiberglass rods to fish the wire through to the slide where the fridge is located. Just follow the current wires. I did not have to open up the belly. I guess I lucked out for a change. See the photos.

Below is the battery compartment. On the back wall, there are holes there where the wires come through. I ran my fiberglass rods through those openings and ended up behind a plastic cover. See another photo.

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Below is where the fiberglass rod came to. That black wall that the yellow line is on is plastic and held in place by a screw or two. Remove the screws and the rod was sitting right there. Also note that the plastic cover has a notched corner for the wires to come through.

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Below. Once wire is through, just follow the other wires and zip tie it to the other wires.

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Below I drilled a 1/2 hole to get the wire into the slideout and behind the fridge. Before drilling the hole, make sure you will have room enough to clear any LP or electric lines and to make sure the back of the fridge will not hit the new wire.

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Below I bought a 10ga inline fuse. It came with a 40amp fuse. Do not use the 40amp. Replace with a 25amp and I tied it into the that red terminal block which comes directly off the battery.

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Your RV will be different I would think. Mine is a 2014 3402RL. But thats how you should be able to get the wire through. Hopes this helps.
 
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Old 08-06-2022, 12:10 PM   #22
sunshine 1
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Old 08-06-2022, 04:53 PM   #23
rohrmann
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Originally Posted by scott-pati View Post
I used fiberglass rods to fish the wire through to the slide where the fridge is located. Just follow the current wires. I did not have to open up the belly. I guess I lucked out for a change. See the photos.

Below is the battery compartment. On the back wall, there are holes there where the wires come through. I ran my fiberglass rods through those openings and ended up behind a plastic cover. See another photo.

Attachment 12671

Below is where the fiberglass rod came to. That black wall that the yellow line is on is plastic and held in place by a screw or two. Remove the screws and the rod was sitting right there. Also note that the plastic cover has a notched corner for the wires to come through.

Attachment 12672

Below. Once wire is through, just follow the other wires and zip tie it to the other wires.

Attachment 12673

Below I drilled a 1/2 hole to get the wire into the slideout and behind the fridge. Before drilling the hole, make sure you will have room enough to clear any LP or electric lines and to make sure the back of the fridge will not hit the new wire.

Attachment 12674

Below I bought a 10ga inline fuse. It came with a 40amp fuse. Do not use the 40amp. Replace with a 25amp and I tied it into the that red terminal block which comes directly off the battery.

Attachment 12675

Your RV will be different I would think. Mine is a 2014 3402RL. But thats how you should be able to get the wire through. Hopes this helps.

That is not a terminal block but is a self resetting 12 volt breaker.
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Old 08-07-2022, 09:39 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by rohrmann View Post
That is not a terminal block but is a self resetting 12 volt breaker.
You are correct! Miss written.
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Old 07-30-2023, 09:33 AM   #25
pitman44
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Originally Posted by scott-pati View Post
Just finished installing the 12v conversation and love it. my Norcold is the 1210 model. Purchased from JC Refridgeration - https://jc-refrigeration.com/product...lacement-unit/.

I ran a test to see how long it would run on a group 31 4 year old battery. It easily ran for 9 straight hours and would probably run for another 4-6 hours easily.

Battery voltage started at 13.1v and after 9 hours went down to 11.9v. Compressor cutoff in the manual says 10.4v.

The test was done with shore power disconnected and nothing in the fridge and inside the RV was 102F. The fridge maintained 28F.

Another test I did was to see how quickly the fridge would cool down. Again, inside temps were over 100F and the fridge had been off for 3 days with doors open. Starting fridge temp was 89F and within 3 hours fridge temp was down to 35F.

I'm super happy, happy, happy. Big bonus is that now you have a separate thermostat for fridge and freezer.

Oh I forgot, I ran a 10ga wire from battery to fridge and installed 25amp in line fuse at the battery for safety.
Does the conversion unit give you more room in the fridge? Seems like it must get rid of the cooling fins which take up a fair amount of space.
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Old 07-30-2023, 07:04 PM   #26
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No it does not. The fins must stay. Just the guts behind the fridge get replaced everything inside the fridge stays the same. I'm super happy with this setup because it acts just like the residental fridge.
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