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Old 08-08-2008, 07:25 AM   #1
Oregon Gypsys
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NO Hot Water supply to any faucets

Have water supply to the cold water but no water coming from any faucet for hot water supply. Anyone out there had this problem? Did dinner dishes had hot water, 1 hour later no water comes from hot water out put????? Help!!!!!!![red]
 
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Old 08-08-2008, 08:26 AM   #2
49merc
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Under heading Montana technical there is a thread on this. There is a check valve on the output of the water heater that fails. Should be an easy replacement.
Bob
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Old 08-10-2008, 01:17 PM   #3
49merc
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Oregon Gypsys, were you ever able to get your problem resolved?
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:28 PM   #4
Oregon Gypsys
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Thank you for info. Hope to get itfixed tomorrow, my husband had a heart attack and has been in the hospital this past week. I know that things are going to get better.

Happy Trails,

Rita Fay
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Old 08-18-2008, 01:38 AM   #5
H. John Kohl
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Sorry to hear your husband had a heart attack. Our prayers are with you both and your family for his speedy recovery.
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Old 08-18-2008, 02:20 AM   #6
Mrs. CountryGuy
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Sorry to hear this, prayers your way, take care of both of you.
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Old 08-18-2008, 03:45 AM   #7
stiles watson
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I remember in our stick house that if I when on a trip, that's when things around the house would break. I was uncanny. It was like there was a maintenance gremlin just waiting for me to leave.

Sorry to hear that things are piling up just now. Let us know when your hubby gets out of the hospital so we can be glad with you.
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Old 08-18-2008, 08:36 AM   #8
Ozz
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We wish your husband a speedy complete recovery.
The check-valve change-out information is below, click on the first link. Any RV supply house will have one.

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Old 08-29-2008, 06:13 PM   #9
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Ozz has some good info linked. Here is a little more info, depending on what brand you have. I have just had this problem of no hot water output to any faucet. After a couple hours of troubleshooting, I disconnected the water fitting that attaches to the "check valve" that Ozz described. When I opened it, the small white plastic valve within the valve unit fell out (it was broken). I made sure there were no loose pieces left in the larger valve assembly, and then reconnected the hot water fitting. Everything works fine. I then called the manufacturer (Suburban, 10 ga tank) and asked them if this would hurt anything. They said no - they actually don't put the small white valve in their units. The water heaters are shipped with the larger valve opening, but many RV manufacturers add the small white valve to help prevent water going back into the hot water tank when the unit is being flushed (if one uses this method to winterize). So at least for now I can get along without it (making a trip soon!!!).

We hope your husband is recovering quickly.
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Old 09-23-2008, 03:24 PM   #10
sreigle
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Rita Fay, how is your husband doing?

That check valve was the culprit for us in two Montanas. Identical symptoms to yours.
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Old 09-24-2008, 06:01 AM   #11
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Looking for a replacement check valve, does anyone know if its 1/2" or 3/4" size. Both sizes are available.

Thanks
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Old 09-24-2008, 10:10 AM   #12
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Bob and Nancy, it is a 1/2".
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:03 AM   #13
sreigle
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As Ozz said, it's 1/2. Nearly any Rv dealer will have them, not just Montana dealers. I think we paid about $5 for one valve.
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:42 AM   #14
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Just an observation about the position of this valve. When you bypass the hot water tank for pumping antifreeze into the water system, I cannot see how this valve gets any antifreeze? If there was residual water in the valve why won't if get damaged from freezing water? If this is true, this valve should have a relatively short life in the Montana, especially in cold weather areas.
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Old 09-27-2008, 11:37 AM   #15
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Bob, it doesn't hold any water, there is just a spring and a seat, I will dig up an exploded view of one I had apart.
(Click on my first link, the water heater check valve, I have one apart in the slide show.)
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Old 09-28-2008, 04:07 PM   #16
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ahhh! I bet that's my problem. I remembered that the last time I winterized and drained the water heater, I made a "wand" for cleaning it out - similar to the wands that hook up to a hose for the toilets (but smaller diameter). I thought perhaps some of that calcium/mineral deposit crud might have become lodged in the "out" line. I took the outdoor shower head off, opened the outdoor hot knob, and applied air pressure with my portable tire compressor. After a few attempts, I now have about 75% pressure (compared to the cold) at all points. When we get through with this 6 week trip, I'll look for a check valve and try to replace it. Ozz, your slideshow is GREAT!! Thanks !!
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Old 09-29-2008, 01:13 AM   #17
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You are welcome, good luck with it.
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Old 10-02-2008, 04:46 AM   #18
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That check valve was the problem. I removed it (had to remove the range/oven to get to it), tore out the insides and replaced it. LOTS of hot weater at all points! I'll get a new one sometime if really needed. Thanks again all and especially OZZ for the visuals.
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:54 AM   #19
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This is not the easiest repair to make on a 3500RL. We have our rear jack switches mounted on the basement wall and therefore couldn't remove it. We had to saw the wall in half with a dremmel tool so we could remove it for access to the water heater.
They used a hardening pipe dope and it took considerable effort to remove the valve. I had to use a cheater pipe on a 1/2 inch drive wrench. Since we don't plan on winterizing, I removed the valve stem, spring, and keeper and re-installed it without the components.
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