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Old 06-15-2020, 03:53 PM   #21
mhs4771
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Unless you're putting in a 20 year old fridge into your RV it's not going to draw a huge amount of current.
These new generation fridges are very energy efficient. My 5 year old Whirlpool draws approx 1 amp on AC and per the meter on my Inverter's Remote draws 11 amps from the batteries when running and remember these don't run all the time they cycle to keep the set temp.
 
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Old 06-15-2020, 04:52 PM   #22
steiny93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhs4771 View Post
Unless you're putting in a 20 year old fridge into your RV it's not going to draw a huge amount of current.
These new generation fridges are very energy efficient. My 5 year old Whirlpool draws approx 1 amp on AC and per the meter on my Inverter's Remote draws 11 amps from the batteries when running and remember these don't run all the time they cycle to keep the set temp.
The French door Samsung in my Montana was just under 5 amp when running. I didn't measure the draw at the batteries, that would have been interesting.

A full sized fridge pulling only 1 amp; that is impressive, do you have the model number handy?
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Old 06-15-2020, 05:33 PM   #23
jeffba
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Max draw on a Samsung is 3 amps
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Old 06-15-2020, 08:23 PM   #24
DebNJim B
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The most I've seen mine draw is 3 amps and that's with the ice maker running. I turn that off when traveling. I have no trouble keeping the batteries up even on long days, I do however have a high output alternator. I have only one hybrid battery and it makes it all day and still is able to run the level up when we get to that nights stop. I keep a remote thermometer in it to monitor while driving. I generally leave the inverter on.
You should be OK with your set up although two batteries might be a good idea. My dealer told me two years after the sale that it should have had two, but of course he didn't give me two.
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Old 06-17-2020, 06:18 AM   #25
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Not sure how it works but two Trojan 6 volt with a fridgidare running, two alts on the truck and it makes it to my next destination around 12 hours drive and still enough to run the slides and landing gear. I'm sure the batterys are down but i am not sure how much. but i do know the two alts work at least for us.
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Old 06-17-2020, 11:41 AM   #26
Randy E
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Residential Refrigerator and Inverter Questions

We have a 2017 3791RD with the same fridge.
#1- You can leave it on all the time. I only turn mine off when I want to power off the fridge when it's parked at home. Flip the breaker also to' off' if doing this.
There is a automatic switch that bypasses the inverter as soon as it detects shore power. Then it runs on shore power as long as you stay plugged in. Once you disconnect power, it switches back to inverter power. This is only on the residential fridge.
#2-I have no issues towing long distance and maintaining battery while the fridge is on. Absolutely no problem with the TV powering it as long as it is running. I've pulled for days without issue.
#3 I always look inside my fridge before pulling out on a trip after Shore power is removed.

A word of caution. If you stop for a night at a place where you cannot connect up to shore power, Unplug your TV from the RV. The battery in the TV will drain all night keeping the fridge running. Once you wake up, you might have several dead batteries. Just remember to plug back in before moving. As long as the TV is running the alternator will keep up. Stopping for a few hours to grab a bite to eat, has never caused me issues.
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Old 06-18-2020, 05:58 AM   #27
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Thanks, Randy. What battery(ies) do you have in the RV? I only have a single 12v RoadHawk Predator RV which CW put in when we purchased. It is a DC27 with 575CCA and 705 MCA with 23 Amp Ave. I think it is a Deca battery but can't find any details on it such as AH rating, etc. My assumption is that it is the cheapest battery available since CW put it in there when purchased. I think the original battery box can hold 2 group 27 batteries or at least 2 group 24's. I was thinking of getting 2 from Batteries Plus. The have Duracell group 27 batteries with 90 AH for $110/ea. I don't want to spend several hundred dollars replacing battery box, wiring, etc. for something that we only use 3-4 hours per day while driving. Does this sound sufficient?
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Old 06-18-2020, 08:47 AM   #28
Randy E
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Residential refrigerator

We have a Deka DP-27. The photo is attached. There are 2 of them. When we bought the Monty brand new the dealer did not connect the 2 batteries together. I didnít notice it until we had a dead battery 400 miles away a week later. One battery was getting the charge from the converter. The other was running the inverter during travel. After a week on shore power we had less then 1/3 on our battery display inside. It took a while to find it. But then realized the connection cables were rolled up and taped inside the battery cover box lid. Easy fix once we saw it. We still have the same batteries 3 years in. I expect to replace them in 4-5 years. Iíve never added water to them. They have been full every time I pop the caps off. I thought that was unusual. Iíve always had to add water on other RV batteries.
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Old 06-18-2020, 10:51 AM   #29
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Hmm, maybe this is a better battery than I gave it credit. I don't usually use a cranking battery, would prefer a true deep cycle. That's a pretty good result though. Thanks so much.
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