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Old 07-11-2019, 09:25 PM   #21
scottkeen
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OT -- couple of people were wondering how to add a picture to their reply. I did some screenshots.

1. Click the Go Advanced button from the Quick Reply form
2. Write your reply
3. Click the Manage Attachments button below the Reply form
4. A new window will pop-up. Click the Browse... button for each picture you want to upload
5. Click the Upload button when you're done
6. Click the Close this window button
7. Click the Submit Reply button from the Reply form

That's it. Hope this helps.
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:29 PM   #22
whutfles
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Nice sketch. I'll concentrate on the negatives. Are the outer boards in your sketch the cabinet walls? If yes, the cabinet walls are 1/8th thick. It's only the shelf brackets and the front face that the doors hang on that have any strength. If your boards are all addative then I'd be concerned that you still have 4 to 5 inches on the right to run the vent hose and elbow.

After having to pull ours out to run water into the back to remove lint, two months later the washer quit - no display. The electrical chord became unplugged. And after pulling the machine part way out, my arm reaching thru my access window in the closet couldn't reach far enough to plug the chord back in. So the machine had to be pulled out and turned so that I could reach between the back of the machine and the closet door to plug it back in. Somebody's bright idea to put that outlet back behind the machine.
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:34 PM   #23
Carl n Susan
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Everyone should read the Forum Help topic http://www.montanaowners.com/forums/...ad.php?t=70323

Posts#8, #19, and #25 have everything you need to know about posting pictures
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:35 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whutfles View Post
Nice sketch. I'll concentrate on the negatives. Are the outer boards in your sketch the cabinet walls? If yes, the cabinet walls are 1/8th thick. It's only the shelf brackets and the front face that the doors hang on that have any strength. If your boards are all addative then I'd be concerned that you still have 4 to 5 inches on the right to run the vent hose and elbow.

After having to pull ours out to run water into the back to remove lint, two months later the washer quit - no display. The electrical chord became unplugged. And after pulling the machine part way out, my arm reaching thru my access window in the closet couldn't reach far enough to plug the chord back in. So the machine had to be pulled out and turned so that I could reach between the back of the machine and the closet door to plug it back in. Somebody's bright idea to put that outlet back behind the machine.
Yes, the outer boards in my sketch are the cabinet walls. If they're only 1/8" thick, then my platform slide isn't going to work without some reinforcement. I'm 50 miles away from my RV, so I haven't been out to check it yet, I was assuming the walls were 1/2" or 3/4" ply.
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Old 10-26-2019, 11:07 PM   #25
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Hi everyone. I'll be uploading photos and a description of my final install of the Splendide WD2100XC combo washer/dryer in my 2011 Keystone Montana Mountaineer 347THT. It required cutting out the back wall of closet and some other modifications, which I'll detail later.

But first, I have a question about the Splendide itself.

I think I have an error code: Both the LOCK and the DRY lights are flashing at the end of the drying cycle.

I just ran the very first laundry load through it since I finished installing it yesterday.

I ran it with both a wash and dry cycle. It washed the clothes, then ran the dry cycle. Towards the end of the dry cycle, it stopped and the LOCK and the DRY lights are both flashing.

I opened the door, the clothes are clean and dry just fine. During the dry cycle I had checked the outside vent and felt warm air coming out the outside vent just fine. I pushed the Start button again (as if doing another load), the flashing lights stop, the door locked and it started the whole new cycle as expected. Everything seems fine, so not sure why the error code.

Any ideas?

I did a search and someone said it was the door lock capacitor. This isn't the problem, I tested the door lock and it locks and releases just fine.
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Old 10-27-2019, 07:55 PM   #26
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I don't remember the sequence of blinking lights, but our splendide all-in-one washer started taking longer to dry until it finally gave us a blinking light error. I called the Splendide phone # in the owner's manual. He told me we had a lint blickage in the exhaust air vent. He said to disconnect the dryer vent hose and insert a water hose and vigorously squirt water into the vent. He said it would wash out the blockage. So I dosconnected the dryver vent hose from the dryer and used a large Dawn dish soap empty plastic bottle. I filled the bottle with water and squirted it into the vent hole in the back of the washer. We did this about 3 or 4 times, Then ran a rinse-spin-drain cycle. We repeated the process again. Hooked up the vent hose and error code was gone and washer ran and dried fine. Six months later had to repeat the process.

If you call Speldide they and tell them the blinking light sequence, they will tell you what is wrong.
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Old 10-27-2019, 08:02 PM   #27
scottkeen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whutfles View Post
I don't remember the sequence of blinking lights, but our splendide all-in-one washer started taking longer to dry until it finally gave us a blinking light error. I called the Splendide phone # in the owner's manual. He told me we had a lint blickage in the exhaust air vent. He said to disconnect the dryer vent hose and insert a water hose and vigorously squirt water into the vent. He said it would wash out the blockage. So I dosconnected the dryver vent hose from the dryer and used a large Dawn dish soap empty plastic bottle. I filled the bottle with water and squirted it into the vent hole in the back of the washer. We did this about 3 or 4 times, Then ran a rinse-spin-drain cycle. We repeated the process again. Hooked up the vent hose and error code was gone and washer ran and dried fine. Six months later had to repeat the process.

If you call Speldide they and tell them the blinking light sequence, they will tell you what is wrong.

Thanks whutfles, and thanks for the tips and photos you shared with me for doing your install. Taking your suggestion, I built my own stand to slide the unit out onto so I can work on it without having to heave it (a 2-man job) up and down. The stand was a back saver!


RE: the DRY and LOCK lights flashing: I found some RV YouTubers that did a review on the Splendide WD2100XC and they said theirs also flashes the DRY and LOCK lights at the same time at the end of the drying cycle. They said it's normal!


I also watched a video by another RV YouTuber who was reviewing a brand new installation of the same washer dryer and you could see at the end of the drying cycle that the DRY and LOCK lights were both flashing. So I'm pretty sure now that THOSE flashing lights are normal, signaling the end of the cycle and the clothes are ready.


I still sent an email to Splendide to get confirmation anyway. They have been really great to deal with.
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Old 10-28-2019, 11:16 AM   #28
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Our washer has a couple flashing lights also when a cycle completes. Our RV is stored at a storage facility 12 miles away so I can't tell you which lights blink until we connect to 110V again and use it. It sounds like your's is working properly.

I watched two workers from my dealership carry that Splendide into our RV. When they got it into the bedroom they had to lay it on the bed. Then one guy got ahold of it and lifted it into the cabinet. I'm sure he took another stitch out of his hernia. I was standing there thinking "how in the hell am I going to move that out of there"? I'm glad you were able to decipher my suggestions.

Enjoy the washer. Just don't forget to open your tank valves. Last year on a trip South for the winter I went to drain my tanks and found the reverse flo valve on the end of my sewer drain closed. I had previously opened the gray tank valve so the entire drain line was charged with gray water. It didn't back up into the washer. The next stop we took a couple of showers and the wife washed a couple loads of clothes. A month earlier I had replaced the shower base and surround walls. So I was dealing with a slight drip from the shower drain that wouldn't seal. As I was standing by the passenger garage door working on the plumbing drain I couldn't figure out why water was dripping from the drain pipe after I disconnected it from the shower base. That meant water was running uphill. All of a sudden I heard water running from the nose of the camper onto the ground. The washer was running at the same time. I yelled at my wife to turn off the washer. I ran to the other side of the camper and found that I had opened the reverse flo valve but had forgotten to open the gray tank valve. I was afraid I had flooded the bedroom. There was no water behind the washer or on the floor of the bedroom. It is as if Montanna put a wye in the plumbing behind the washer wall and if you back up the plumbing, it just drains into the nose. I don't think that is the norm as I hear about other Montanna owners who have flooded their bedrooms.
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Old 10-28-2019, 07:29 PM   #29
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Yikes. Quite a story! Thanks for the reminder to open the gray tank valve when running the washer.
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:05 PM   #30
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Here's some photos of the install of the Splendide WD2100XC combo washer dryer into my 2011 Keystone Montana Mountaineer 347THT fifth wheel.


This is the closet in the bedroom, behind the nose. This is the intended location, you can see the plumbing on the right wall, the sticker says to drill the hole for the vent on this wall. The closet was not deep enough for the washer-dryer and the dryer vent, so the back of the closet had to be cut out. It's very thin, maybe 1/4", I cut it with an oscillating multi-tool. Behind the back wall of the closet is just the nose. I could not cut the hole for the dryer vent to go outside behind the closet wall because then the vent would come out the nose! So the vent would have to go from behind the washer-dryer, into the nose, then come back into the closet and out the side.



Here's where I masked off the area where the 4" hole for the vent would come out. If you look hard, you'll see a tiny hole in the blue tape. That was my first pilot hole for the center of the 4" vent. It ended up being too close to the nose, so I moved it over another 2.5" or so. It's OK, because the vent flange and vent shield covered up the pilot hole.



The 4" hole for the dryer vent is cut! I drilled a series of shallow tiny holes along the diameter of the hole from the inside to probe that I was not drilling into anything important! Note the first pilot hole to the right. It got covered up by the vent flange and vent shield cover.



I thought it would be interesting to see what the wall is made of. This is the drilled out core.



Here is the hookup of the supply lines and the drain. Make sure you secure your drain hose. I screwed it into the box and also zip-tied it to the hot-water valve. This was important -- I used 90-degree elbow adapters when connecting the supply lines to the valves. There's so little space between the right side of the washer-dryer and the plumbing wall that having the hoses attached straight in wouldn't work. The 90-degree adapters are just your standard Camco adapter you'd use for attaching water hoses. I put plumbers tape around the threads as an extra measure, but it's not really necessary because all the connections have rubber gaskets.



I built this stand to save my back, and to make the job of removing the washer-dryer to service it a one-man operation. Thanks to forum member whutfles for this suggestion. I designed this heavy-duty stand in SketchUp and built it out of 2x3 lumber and 3/4" plywood. The dimensions are 24" wide by 22" long, the dimensions of the washer-dryer footprint. The height is 18" to match the height to the floor of the cabinet. The idea is to be able to slide the washer-dryer out from the cabinet to the stand and back. The stand worked great, and I'll go as far to say IT IS NECESSARY!



The washer-dryer finally installed. I installed as far left as I could, to give me working room to reach the valves and drain. Also needed space for the dryer vent hose as it comes back in from the nose back into the cabinet then goes out the side. Note the 2 brackets that go around the feet of the washer-dryer and secure it to the floor of the cabinet.



The washer-dryer stand I built doubles as a coffee table! I'm going to sand, stain, and seal it. I like it when stuff has a dual-purpose!
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:22 PM   #31
scottkeen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottkeen View Post
I think I have an error code: Both the LOCK and the DRY lights are flashing at the end of the drying cycle.

I just ran the very first laundry load through it since I finished installing it yesterday.

I ran it with both a wash and dry cycle. It washed the clothes, then ran the dry cycle. Towards the end of the dry cycle, it stopped and the LOCK and the DRY lights are both flashing.

I opened the door, the clothes are clean and dry just fine...

To answer my own question, here is the response from Splendide:


Quote:
From Todd A. at Westland Sales (Splendide)


The door lock and dry lights flashing together means the machine is done drying. You can set it for another cycle and start a new wash load.



The only lights that would display a fault code would be the four horizontal lights up top: low heat, pre wash, extra rinse, and low spin. Those four lights would flash with the door lock light and that would be a fault code.


Regards,
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Old 10-28-2019, 08:45 PM   #32
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One more tidbit. If you winterize your washer, you have to run a rinse cycle filling the washer with antifreeze. When you see a little pink antifreeze above the bottom of the tub, change the washer to drain. Repeat again and should be good. Also pour a little antifreeze in the soap and fabric softner pull out tray. I did this before the rinse-drain procedure in case it washed any water out of the fabric softner tray.

Last year was my first year for winterizing the washer. This year while doing the rinse-drain procedure I noticed the dial had a "cold water rinse" and a "hot water rinse" selection. So while filling with antifreeze I left it on cold for a while and then switched it to hot for a while. My wife usually rinses with cold so last year I winterized whatever hose she had it set on - probably cold. So the hot didn't get winterized. This year they both got winterized.
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