Slide topper issue.

[Randy E]

Hi MOC family. I have a question about my kitchen slide out topper on our 2017 3791RD. I looked up last night and saw the mounting track was starting to pull away from the coach side wall on the front end. It looks like the screws are pulling out for about a foot long section. Has anyone had to repair these? What is my best option? Can I run larger screws in? How do I know where to put the screws so I don’t hit wiring? Or is there no wiring above the slide-out? I’d think it should be mounted to a stud. But I don’t know how to locate one. Any idea would be appreciated.

Also on several of the slide toppers, there is a rubber strip that slides into the track to hold the tarp in place on both ends. The rubber keeps working out on all 5 slide toppers. How do I keep it in place. They don’t go back in place very easy. I marked the photos with a red arrow so you can see both issues.

Thank you in advance. I know someone out there has fixed this before and can guide me on the correct way. Hopefully without any water leaks.

[Daryles]

Recent thread on this subject
https://www.montanaowners.com/forums...ad.php?t=82679

For the bead coming out of the channel, put a stainless steel stop screw in the channel. If you cant get it back in, if its not too long, cut it then stop screw.

[RMcNeal]

I have the same issue of the spline coming out of the end. What I did was to release some of the tension on the roll by rolling it out by hand and using a small screwdriver in the hole on one end to hold it. Then you can push the spline back in the slot. I used a pair of needle nose and some silicone spray to make it push in easier. Once it is back in place, put a very short small screw just big enough to fit in the slot at the end. This will prevent it from backing out again.

[Randy E]

Very Good information. Thank you both. I will try unwinding the roll this time. I'm sure that will help. Also I apricate the link. I was thinking larger screws would fix my problem, but I didn't know how much larger in diameter, or how much longer? I'd hate to destroy the fiberglass outer skin, or hit a wire inside the wall, by screwing the rail back on using the wrong product.

[Randy E]

I just ordered the blind Oscar rivets from McMaster Carr. I order from them weekly anyway. It's exactly what is called for on the install instructions. I can't believe that the installer at the dealer would screw up something as simple as this. The required rivet would actually be quicker.
Here is the link from McMaster carr again if anyone needs it.
https://www.mcmaster.com/97545A075/

Thank You again for the help.

[RMcNeal]

The rivets are the way to go if they will fit and the mandrel will not protrude from the face too much. I was going to suggest removing a screw and get another one that is the same length but larger in diameter.

[R.S.O'Donnell]

Had the same issue with mine. I put screws all the way through on all my awnings.

[Randy E]

I just finished replacing the undersized screws on my slide topper roll ups. One screw had the head broke off. They actually used 3 different screws on the framework above the toppers. There were pan head Phillips, square head Phillips , and several countersunk wood screws also. They almost pulled the head thru the rail. Totally the wrong screws. I added the Oscar rivets to both ends of the mount. Then I changed the steel screws to a #12 x3/4” stainless screws. They fit perfectly. They tightened really good. I did notice one old screw had wet sawdust on the threads when I removed it. Now I’m wondering why. The roof did not have any cracks or tears any where. So I’m wondering if water got past the uncovered screw head. If it did, I should think about putting a dab of silicone on each screw head just as extra insurance.
The repair went well thanks to the advise I got here. So thank you all again.

[hemiallen]

RS

I thought the issue was between the frame and the fiberglass wall? Your image looks to be pinching the material between the aluminum framing, ie only holding the slide topper material and not the frame to the coach's wall?

Thanks

Allen

[Randy E]

The picture is kind of hard to see the details. But the aluminum top frame rail pulled out about 1/4”. The screws that held it on were far too small. The head snapped off and the next 2 screws pulled out. By putting #12 screws in, I was able to pull the bent end back in to contact the fiberglass sidewall. Then I drilled 2 new holes thru the rail into the wall, and used the special Oscar rivets to secure it permanently. Then I took the old screws out that I could get to, and replaced them one at a time. Now I have 2 rivets on the end of the rail, and new screws the rest of the way.

[hemiallen]

Thanks Randy

It seems like a sealant on both a screw or rivet would be a good idea also.

Allen