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Old 01-19-2021, 04:33 AM   #1
DougVelting
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Lightbulb RV Furnace Wont Light In The Rain- Fixed It

Hey all,
So this past weekend we had some pretty decent rain, and when i went out to the rv to do some stuff, turned on the heat and the furnace didnt light. Pulled the cover off outside and found a pretty decent puddle in the bottom of the furnace. The rain seems to have gotten in along side the exhaust pipe, puddled up and seeped into the firebox.

When the fan kicked on for the preignition it was blowing the puddle around inside the firebox and IF it did manage to light, it sputtered out and died in a few seconds.

I dried out the box with a towel and a heat gun into the exhaust pipe, got it good and dry, then used fire rated sealant to caulk the small gap between the component cabinet and the firebox so hopefully we dont have this issue again in the future.

Im going to do my own "hurricane simulation" with the garden hose after work today to make sure it worked now that the caulk has had 2 good days of curing.

In depth steps and pics on my blog if anyone is having a similar issue, http://interstateadventures.com/rv-f...t-in-the-rain/

But here is a couple quick ones that about sums it up if anyone is having a similar issue.

 
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Old 01-19-2021, 05:46 AM   #2
Daryles
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I followed others lead and made a cover to deflect the rain away.
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Old 01-19-2021, 08:53 AM   #3
DougVelting
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I thought about doing something like that but didnt want to alter the outside. my thought was that the cover could still get knocked off and leave me back at square one.
I dont know why they dont come with a louvered cap over the exhaust in the first place
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Old 01-19-2021, 11:20 AM   #4
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I had the same issue when running to our first real trip in December of 2017 in a driving rain storm. Spent the majority of several days working on getting all the water out of the blower assembly and burner. Looks like kind of a design flaw as I was thinking that the water also gets into the intake. My problems mostly went away after the installation of a bug screen. Maybe it acts like a baffle. Doug did a nice write-up.
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Old 01-19-2021, 11:23 AM   #5
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Doug, in one of your pix, you can see the high limit (blue wires). I found those connectors slightly corroded recently that caused a fail to fire. After cleaning them (need long needle nose pliers), worked fine.
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Old 01-19-2021, 02:59 PM   #6
DougVelting
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The bug screen is on the list of get around to it one weekend for sure, so hopefully between the caulk and screen that completely solves it.
Once i got it dried out the sputtering and failing to fire went right away and worked as it should.
I am definitely going to take a look at the wire connections now that you mention it, i didn't look at them as closely as i should have knowing that water getting into the area was already an issue.
Thanks for the tip!
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Old 01-19-2021, 07:45 PM   #7
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We have the bug screen on ours and haven't had that problem but we had water getting in above that and shorting out the circut board. The only answer we found that worked is to use butal tape around the top and sides to seal it up.
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Old 02-03-2021, 03:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryles View Post
I followed others lead and made a cover to deflect the rain away.
That's weird, they mounted the furnace rotated 90 degrees, that is a problem. I live in a region that is a temperate rain forest. At times you need scuba gear to walk around outside. Never has a water issue with the furnace, some trouble with the hot water heater caused by 50 - 60 mph winds blowing out the flame. Simple fix is switch to electric. Your fix should work for a while.
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Old 02-03-2021, 06:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masterdrago View Post
Doug, in one of your pix, you can see the high limit (blue wires). I found those connectors slightly corroded recently that caused a fail to fire. After cleaning them (need long needle nose pliers), worked fine.
Just for clarification: The blue wires are thermostat wires. One provides 12VDC to the thermostat and (when the thermostat calls for heat) the other returns that 12VDC to the control board via the sail switch and the limit sensor. If you ever want to bypass the thermostat, just jumper those two blue wires together.
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