ultra fab stabilizers set up issues

[Rescue 1]

Ok so I got them installed as per the instructions. I added a piece of 1-1/2 angle iron across the back framerails. I had to move the rear stabilizer jacks forward about 8 inches. I installed the angle at the end of the frame rails. So my rear UF stabilizers are about 8" behind the rear stabilizer jacks.

SO my question/problem is: Why does it not seem to be much better? I have tried to take out the slack on them. I've bumped the front up and down. No change. I've tried leveling with the UF loose. Tightening the front, then taking out the slack of the front and then cranking on the rear stabilizers, the tightening the UF stabilizers. Still bouncy. My wheels are sitting flat on the ground with BAL wheel chocks between the wheels. I'm at wits end.

If I understand it correctly, I should set it up like this:
1. level camper
2. set wheel chocks between wheels
3. lower the rear stabilizer jacks
4. raise the front up about an inch
5. tighten the front UF stabilizers
6. lower the front about 1/2 inch
7. tighten the rear UF stabilizers
8. enjoy my camping experience

Ok so what am I missing? I do this and when someone walks across the floor and it rocks and wiggles.

[ols1932]

You mention wheel chocks between the wheels. Are they chocks like the Roto-Chok that locks the wheels from moving back and forth? You need something of that nature to stop the forward/backward rocking. All we have are the Roto-Choks, no tripod, no stabilizers other than what comes on the rig naturally, and we have little or no rocking. Sure, there is minimal movement, but we don't even notice it.

Orv

[TLightning]

Another thing you should consider is what you consider rocky and wiggly, another person might consider very stable...and vice versa.

[JimF]

Like Orv says, I use Bal between wheel chocks, full time and don't really notice the movement, except when the washer starts a spin cycle and that's only about 30 seconds. After a couple of years we hardly notice that anymore.

[hookman]

On JT's I get the Monty almost level and put down the rear jacks then tightened the JT's. Then I raise the front to take out the slack on the rear. Then tighten the front JT's on the front and bump up the front until all the slack is out. Always do the rear first.

[H. John Kohl]

Are you feeling wiggle or bounce. I believe the frame over the wheels bounces or flexes.

[sreigle]

Rescue1, I have the same feelings about this that you do. Ours do considerably dampen the movement but not nearly as well as Robbie's and Grant's do. I haven't been in any others.

I had mine installed by Camping World. Actually, the RV dealer at the CW site did it. The installed the rears on an existing angle iron. I suspect there's a bit of flex in that angle iron. And they installed the front ones into the pan of the front locker. They used the short stiffeners but I suspect there's also some flex there. So I need to get some sheet iron for the front and tubular iron for the rear and strengthen those areas some day.

Other than that, make sure those swivel point bolts are as tight as you can get them while still allowing them to swivel. No slop. That helped some on mine. CW had them pretty loose since the manual says to not overtighten or they won't swivel.

Meanwhile, if you come up with a good solution, please let me know.

John, on mine it's wiggle. I have the scissor jacks behind the wheels that stops the bounce.

Robbie, if you're reading this. With the stabilizers tightened down I cannot shove the nose sideways. But we still feel some movement inside. Given what these things cost, I expected better performance. For those who think it might have to do with the brand, these appear to be identical to the JT Stabilizers.

Another guy in this park with a brand spanking new Montana (traded a Mountaineer) commented he has more movement (no extra stabilizers0 than he did in his Mountaineer FW. He suggested the rubber MorRyde suspension might allow a bit more movement than the old system. There may be something to that.

Here's something that seems to help a little. I just started doing this because of a need to back into the trailer to unhitch the superglide. I put those yellow chocks behind the wheels. Then put the truck in reverse and back the trailer into those chocks to get a good tight fit. Then put in the yellow chocks in front of the wheels, too. Then I put my BAL between wheel chocks in place. Then I drop landing gear and unhitch. Those rear wheels are going nowhere. Unfortunately it only works well when there are not leveling blocks under any wheels. Hmmm, maybe longer leveling blocks is the answer to that.

[exav8tr]

Steve, My JTs took out 90% of the movement. One has to remember we are still sitting on air (tires) and will still have some movement. I just use the BAL chocks between the wheels. ONCE you tighten the JT'S you bump the trailer to put some stress on the stabillizers. My tailer feels rock solid 95% of the time.

[Rescue 1]

In response, yes I have the BAL chocks that crank between the wheels. I have all the stabilizers tight. I can grab any one of them and they feel tight. Strangly enough, when I first installed them they felt like they did a better job. We changed to a different campground and when I set up here is when I really noticed a change. The only real difference is the how far the landing gear is extended. They are out more here. I only have the extensions out four pin holes. I have the rear stabilizers setting on boards.

I have both a bounce and a wiggle. When my 50 lb dog walks across the camper and I rock in the rocker on my slide, I think I have a problem. Oh yeh when the washer starts its spin cycle.... wooo hooo....

Steve, just a passing thought, the 3400 is very similar to the 3670 right? I wonder if the length has anything to do with it.

[sreigle]

I've also noticed in some parks we're more stable than in others. I suspect hard surfaces are better. On soft surfaces we'll probably settle a bit more.

As you noted, I think the more extension in the landing gear, the more the movement. It does seem to help to run the gear down as far as I can and minimize the amount of extension on the drop part of the leg. And/or use more blocks to minimize extension. Even then we're not as stable as I think we should be with these new stabilizers.

I also thought ours were better when new.

Length most likely does have an impact.

I don't get the up and down bounce because of the scissor jacks bolted to the frame behind the rear wheels. I still get the side to side wiggle, though, although not as much as without the stabilizers.

[ronnilu]

This is a very interesting thread. I've tried not to sound like an ad for the SteadyFast stabilizer but you guys that have to add a cross brace, raise one end, tighten, raise the other end, tighten, etc., etc. need to junk those systems & put on the SteadyFast! Once you level your unit & have your drop legs & scissor jacks down, just tighten the 3 knobs & that is it. No extra things to have to do but put out the recliner & enjoy. Sorry guys, but I just couldn't help myself. mike

[sreigle]

Rescue1, I just re-read your procedures. I tighten both front and rear and then bump the landing gear switch a couple of times. That puts a bit of a load on all four stabilizers.