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Old 02-12-2019, 12:03 PM   #1
daveinaz
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Remove oxidation from exterior

Our new to us 2008 Monty has sat in the Arizona sun its entire life. That said, the finish is toast on it. Most all of the decals have already been removed. I know it's a little controversial, but seeing as how I don't want to spend thousands restoring the finish on a rig this old, I'm leaning toward doing the Zep floor finish method.

I've watched a number of video on this process and had a couple questions for any of you who have done this procedure as well. Some owners apply the wax with a microfiber cloth and ladder whereas others have used a sponge mop on an extension without the need for a ladder. Some for getting rid of the oxidation. I've seen some use hand-held scrub pads with a ladder and others used what looks like a floor scrubber on a pole. While it would be more a pain (and leg workout) using a cloth and going up/down the ladder all day, it does seem like it would be a more controlled application that using the sponge on an extension method.

Then there's the BKF vs softscrub and TSP vs Dawn dish soap discussion.

I'm debating whether to tackle the oxidation removal myself or get someone to do it. I'd like them to just clean/remove the oxidation, not wax/polish it because I have a new set of factory decals. My plan would be to remove the oxidation/clean the rig, apply the new decals, and then wax/polish it.

From what I've read, the BKT & mild scrub pad to remove oxidation isn't recommended if you have any type of finish left on your rig, but since ours doesn't I'm leaning toward trying it since it sort of in the category of I don't have anything to lose by trying it.

I know the hardest part is going to be getting rid of the oxidation so I'm leaning toward getting someone to do that and then tackling the rest myself.
 
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Old 02-12-2019, 08:15 PM   #2
Hblick48
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Mine was extremely oxidized, the shadowing was extreme..PO had it in Nevada. The blue tape indicates where the decal should be placed (aligned before I removed old decal). I then started with 220 grit and worked my way up to 1000 grit wet sanding with random orbital sander, removed all of the shadowing.

Then I used the buffer with wool bonnet and polishing compound to bring some shine back. I only sanded and buffed the areas where the new decals were to go.

You definately need to remove shadows before using wax or floor polish.
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:07 AM   #3
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Dave, when we purchased our 08 3400RL several years ago it certainly wasn't as oxidized as yours probably is. However, when I replaced the decals I used a process I had used on our motor yacht (which was badly oxidized) to bring back the finish.

There is a product called Eager Buff. The company is out of Chicago that sells it so you can probably find them online. I started by using ultra fine 1500-2000 sand paper to wet sand it. Then using a very small amount of Eager Buff compound I buffed a small area using a slow speed. The results were amazing. My 1990 boat looked like it had just been built when I was finished. With the Montana all shadowing was gone where the old decals were. It looked so good I didn't put them back on.

Good luck.
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Old 02-13-2019, 08:11 AM   #4
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As for as the decals, I did not do anything for the areas under the old decals for my 2007 year model over 3 years ago. When I removed the decals and all the adhesive, the areas covered by those decals was shiny and smooth. Unlike the oxidized areas which had no decals. Mine is stored under cover, but still has oxidation on those areas.

In placing the new decals, the shiny areas provided great guides for placing the new decals exactly where the old ones had been. I do still need to address the oxidized areas though. I only replaced my front and rear decals as the sides still look pretty good.
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Old 02-13-2019, 09:11 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
As for as the decals, I did not do anything for the areas under the old decals for my 2007 year model over 3 years ago. When I removed the decals and all the adhesive, the areas covered by those decals was shiny and smooth. Unlike the oxidized areas which had no decals. Mine is stored under cover, but still has oxidation on those areas.

In placing the new decals, the shiny areas provided great guides for placing the new decals exactly where the old ones had been. I do still need to address the oxidized areas though. I only replaced my front and rear decals as the sides still look pretty good.
That's kinda my plan. Remove what's left of the decals (not much) and adhesive, then clean/deoxidize, then use the shiny part as a guide to put on the new decals since they should be the same ones as what came off of it. I'm sure that even after deoxidizing the surrounding area that there will be enough of a shadow to place the new decals.
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Old 02-13-2019, 04:59 PM   #6
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I would use a good polisher with the orange pad and some 1,500 compound followed by the white pad with compound 3,000 then polish with the black pad with a good wax.Here are the tools I use on my cars
polisher https://store.detailking.com/flex-dual-action-polisher.



compounds https://www.chemicalguys.com/Paint_C...pounds_s/8.htm


Pads https://www.chemicalguys.com/Hex_Log...s_p/bufx703.ht
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Old 02-14-2019, 06:36 AM   #7
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regarding the decals, if you are comfortable with going into mexico, go down to mazatlan and have the decals painted. great work down there.
I am also sure if you search in Phoenix you will find someone also.


as for waxing the trailer, hire someone. not worth it to me to kill myself for a few hundred dollars.
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Old 02-14-2019, 09:26 AM   #8
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regarding the decals, if you are comfortable with going into mexico, go down to mazatlan and have the decals painted. great work down there.
I am also sure if you search in Phoenix you will find someone also.


as for waxing the trailer, hire someone. not worth it to me to kill myself for a few hundred dollars.
I already have the factory replacement decals, otherwise I'd just leave it naked. But yes, I am strongly leaning toward having someone clean/buff/wax the trailer and not kill myself over a period of a few days doing it myself. However, since one place wants over $1100 to just put the decals on, I think I'll do that part myself.

The detail guy was going to clean/remove the oxidation first, then I was going to put the decals on, then after a month for them to set, take it back to him and have him wax /buff it. Now I'm wondering if I should just put the decals on first, let them set, then take it back and have him do the cleaning/deoxidation/waxing/buffing all at once.
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:08 PM   #9
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I read this article in Trailer Life not long ago.

http://www.trailerlife.com/rv-gear/c...n-rvs-stripes/
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:18 PM   #10
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I would definitely take oxidation off before applying new decals.If the buffer accidentally hit the decals it could damage them. I did everything myself and it was a monumental task!
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Old 02-14-2019, 01:59 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by h2ojocky View Post
I would definitely take oxidation off before applying new decals.If the buffer accidentally hit the decals it could damage them. I did everything myself and it was a monumental task!
good point. why chance it?
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Old 02-16-2019, 11:25 AM   #12
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This isn't an advertisement ,but you might check out the Duratain folks... the owner , Wayne has seen just about all situations and might come up with a good solution for you.
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:15 PM   #13
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I don't know about the rest of you, but if I had it to do over again, Id stay away from GELCOAT finishes. Id much rather have Painted Aluminum again.. Gelcoat is the worst finish to use on an RV.. For a boat its' ok because there is not other finish for fiberglas... Holiday Rambler and Alumascaped had the smooth Aluminum finishes... They held up much better than Gelcoat...
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:20 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by daveinaz View Post
I already have the factory replacement decals, otherwise I'd just leave it naked. But yes, I am strongly leaning toward having someone clean/buff/wax the trailer and not kill myself over a period of a few days doing it myself. However, since one place wants over $1100 to just put the decals on, I think I'll do that part myself.

The detail guy was going to clean/remove the oxidation first, then I was going to put the decals on, then after a month for them to set, take it back to him and have him wax /buff it. Now I'm wondering if I should just put the decals on first, let them set, then take it back and have him do the cleaning/deoxidation/waxing/buffing all at once.
Can I ask, where did you buy the factory replacement decals? How much did they cost?

Thanks
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:26 PM   #15
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Good luck with the replacement decals. Keystone sent me a complete set back when I complained when I first had problems. Replacing them is a tedious, hard job. Started doing them bit by bit. Sadly, the replacement decals are not holding up as well as the originals. (I'm back to naked on the front cap; more to follow.) We'll see how it goes.....If I come into some extra $, I may invest in some painting. Colorado climate is killer on decals on Montana and other brands. Mine is kept inside in dry dark storage 6 months of the year also. Nature of the beast I guess.
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Old 02-20-2019, 01:45 PM   #16
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Can I ask, where did you buy the factory replacement decals? How much did they cost?

Thanks
I would like to know this as well.
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Old 02-20-2019, 02:27 PM   #17
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Can I ask, where did you buy the factory replacement decals? How much did they cost?

Thanks
I got them when I bought the trailer from the PO. Keystone sent them out a complete replacement set of decals when the originals started coming off.
So I have probably ten unopened boxes from Keystone with new decals. The PO said that Keystone told him that the replacements are perforated so they won't peel like the originals. We shall see.

I've debated going through the trouble of putting them on, especially since there's a chance they will do the same thing as the original ones. But I'm more likely to put them one since my new neighbor told me that he used to have a vinyl graphics business and would be glad to help me put them on!
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:56 PM   #18
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If I ever had to remove the decals not one would ever go on again.
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Old 02-20-2019, 10:37 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Slow Hand View Post
I would use a good polisher with the orange pad and some 1,500 compound followed by the white pad with compound 3,000 then polish with the black pad with a good wax.Here are the tools I use on my cars
polisher https://store.detailking.com/flex-dual-action-polisher.



compounds https://www.chemicalguys.com/Paint_C...pounds_s/8.htm


Pads https://www.chemicalguys.com/Hex_Log...s_p/bufx703.ht
I used essentially the same process on our 2005 2955RL. I did it slowly over time (approx. 1 month) and we are quite pleased with the outcome of the effort. You can buy replacement Montana decals on eBay which are affordable. We chose to go with some different decals and leave a couple of Montana decals on. I have attached an example of the finished product.
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Old 02-21-2019, 06:53 AM   #20
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Detail shop

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good point. why chance it?
Dave, There is an RV body shop an RV detail shop on the corner of El mirage and northern in El mirage. Look for Premier. Or give me a call 425.359.1111 jeff
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