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Old 07-03-2020, 07:17 PM   #21
mlh
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Jim these will perform as well as you could wish. We have Fijitsu units. The one on the sun room is 12,000 BTUs and never breaks a sweat in the coolest or hottest weather. It’s 26 seer they now go up to at less 33. It’s been over 10 years and the only thing we have ever had to do to it is wash the filter and replace the remote battery. Just be sure you have enough air flow to the outside unit.
If you can get it in, go for it. There is no way to compare a mini split to the ones in campers today.
Lynwood
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Old 07-05-2020, 01:01 PM   #22
decarteaux
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The previous owner of my 3400RL removed the generator from under the front bedroom area, so there is a bit of room in there for the outdoor unit. Since the bedroom is where I'd consider putting it, this would be fairly easy and avoid many of the issues others are dealing with. I've used mini-splits for years overseas but have yet to see one sized for an RV. Suspect that a micro mini-split would be in order, such as these: https://tinyhousehugeideas.com/small...-conditioners/ . The top pick is a Pioneer at about $900 with these specs: Type: Cools & Heats

SEER 19.5

10 HSPF

Indoor Size: 28.5 x 7.5 x 11.5

Outdoor Size: 30.5 x 12 x 22

Room Size: 200-350 ft2

I do not see Samsung, Mitsubishi, or LG listed as manufacturers of these micro units. They start at around 9000 BTUs, which is the probably the low end of most requirements. Given my one AC unit at the opposite end of the RV, I think one of these micros would probably suffice. I am not going to get into the roof mount vs. wall mount issue since that will be peculiar to each owner.
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Old 07-05-2020, 01:43 PM   #23
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How would you go about running copper lines and new wiring from a low mounted outside condenser unit to ceiling mounted cooling units when retrofitting an existing trailer?
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Old 07-05-2020, 02:06 PM   #24
decarteaux
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Covering copper lines on exterior

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Originally Posted by BB_TX View Post
How would you go about running copper lines and new wiring from a low mounted outside condenser unit to ceiling mounted cooling units when retrofitting an existing trailer?
I do not know my RV well enough to know if it could be done inside the wall, but that would not be my preference, anyway. I would likely run the lines to the exterior and protect the heck out of them with the proper conduit/panduit. I have seen this done on home units and done nicely.

The set in this link seems to be about right: https://www.highseer.com/products/pv...24481992245312
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Old 07-05-2020, 03:46 PM   #25
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How would you go about running copper lines and new wiring from a low mounted outside condenser unit to ceiling mounted cooling units when retrofitting an existing trailer?
Your right that a retrofit would be difficult. But it probably could be done. Is it worth it over a third roof mount, hard to say...Ö

But on a new build, ABSOLUTELY!!
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Old 07-05-2020, 06:52 PM   #26
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With mini splits you wouldn’t need as many BTUs. The duck work in these campers loose at least 25% and probably much more. We have 28,500 BTUs with only a 25% loss we are down to 18,500 BTUs. Power required to run them would be cut by half. SEER on our AC units are probably 10 maybe 12 where the SEER on a mini split starts at about 16 and goes up to 33 or more now. They would be able to heat your camper down to zero or below.

If you watch HGTV other countries have gone to mini splits much more than we have. With all the advantages we will be installing many more in this country. The problem installing them in many houses is they are cut up with too many rooms. You need a inside unit for each room and that gets expensive.
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Old 07-06-2020, 03:09 PM   #27
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With mini splits you wouldnít need as many BTUs. The duck work in these campers loose at least 25% and probably much more. We have 28,500 BTUs with only a 25% loss we are down to 18,500 BTUs. Power required to run them would be cut by half. SEER on our AC units are probably 10 maybe 12 where the SEER on a mini split starts at about 16 and goes up to 33 or more now. They would be able to heat your camper down to zero or below.

If you watch HGTV other countries have gone to mini splits much more than we have. With all the advantages we will be installing many more in this country. The problem installing them in many houses is they are cut up with too many rooms. You need a inside unit for each room and that gets expensive.
Lynwood
Wow, I had no idea that the duct loss was that much. Thanks for that info!

Roof mount vs. wall mount - not sure which way I would go. But if the indoor unit is small enough, I'd probably do it that way.

As far as the number of indoor to outdoor units, I do believe that Mitsu or Samsung make a 4 to 1 unit (4 indoor to 1 outdoor). But that outdoor unit gets big quickly and I highly doubt that anything like that would be suitable for an RV. I suspect that a 2 to 1 is doable, but that is outside my sphere of knowledge.
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Old 07-08-2020, 03:41 PM   #28
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You go first, I will see how yours works out. I just retired after 55+ years as an HVAC contractor. Ive installed countless minisplit units of various brands so I have a fair knowledge of the subject. I wouldn't downsize to the point some are suggesting. I wouldn't count on being able to heat down to very low temps in cold outdoor ambients without a supplemental heat source. More than anything, Im not convinced a mini split not specifically designed to take the day in day out beating our RV road trips impose on the equipment will not beat itself to death in a short time causing numerous refrigerant leaks and other component failures. I would read the manufacturers warranty prior to doing this and see if they will warranty their equipment in this type of installation. IF all this works out then, the mini split option would be a very viable option. Im sure not a fan of the noisy a/c units in my 5ver now but as previously mentioned, they do provide white noise in RV parks which is often a blessing. My 2 cents worth.
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Old 07-08-2020, 03:52 PM   #29
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New Horizons run $200,000 - $300,000. It'll be a long time before Keystone catches up with those improvements.
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Old 07-08-2020, 06:34 PM   #30
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IINM, This is the unit they have in the video. LG 14,000 BTU 22 SEER Recessed Dual Zone Heat Pump System 7+7
Model: LMU18CHV 2-LMCN078HV-NG
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Old 07-09-2020, 01:35 AM   #31
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for more information on MINI SPLIT's just type in mini split (both bunches of different brands and suppliers will show up). Can View straight A/C or Heat pumps, THEY do not need strip heat to work , either 110 or 220 volt systems. Have 3 here in the Philippines and will install 2 in our 32x60 RV/house when we get back to Alabama.
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Old 07-09-2020, 07:20 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Chiefcpo View Post
for more information on MINI SPLIT's just type in mini split (both bunches of different brands and suppliers will show up). Can View straight A/C or Heat pumps, THEY do not need strip heat to work , either 110 or 220 volt systems. Have 3 here in the Philippines and will install 2 in our 32x60 RV/house when we get back to Alabama.

Iíve had the one on our sunroom in for probably over 10 years. Temperature has been down under 10 degrees and up over 95 probably close to 100 and itís never failed to keep the room at the set temperature. The only thing Iíve ever done was change the battery in the remote and clean the filter. Our new one in the main part of the house is warranted for 12 years, compressor and parts. It will heat all the way down to -15 while the one in the sunroom is only good to zero.
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Old 07-09-2020, 08:57 AM   #33
decarteaux
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You go first, I will see how yours works out. My 2 cents worth.
All good points. Always good to hear the voice of experience. These units have not been adapted to travel (yet), and that would likely create some major issues. No doubt some shock absorption & good structural support would be in order. I'm in a semi-permanent spot so I would consider it. When I move next time (probably just up the road), the unit will likely spend years there. Anyone who is bumping down the road on a regular basis might want to reconsider.
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