Frustration... Long, Sorry.

[CarCar]

So, we began the task of checking out the Montaineer before the first trip of the year. Our dealer has 3 locations, and they have storage at 2 of the sites. We stored it there for the winter, and had them winterize and de-winterize it. They also blew the lines out after dewinterizing it, since we were having a very cold start to spring. Well, everything seemed great, until we got Her back.

We started to apply water to the city water connector. It started leaking. We changed hoses, fittings and washer to make sure it wasn't the cause. Then we tried to hand tighten it. Didn't help, it still leaked.

When the water was applied to the system, we purged the system, to make sure it was flushed out, then turned on water heater, and made sure it was all set. While working in the yard, we noticed that water was running out of the camper by the heater, dripping down on the right forward tire. We went in to figure out what was going on, pulled out drawers and saw water running out of the tee fittings. Looked like the hot water line tee fitting was leaking water from the base of the tee line. Tried tightening, wouldn't tighten, turned off water, disconnected line, reconnected line. Took 3 tries since it was cross-threaded. After the water got cleaned up, it seemed fine, but we were a bit nervous about the status of the fittings.

We decided to start to test the system. We got no power to the surround system. During troubleshooting, found the DC fuse behind the surround system was blown. We replaced the fuse. It was getting late, so we decided to start back up another day.

2 days later, we started back up on the sytem checks. Went to open slides. They would not open. We realized that the battery was dead, but we had AC power since we were still connected to shore, but no DC power. This battery was fully charged when installed 2 days earlier. (It had been stored indoors for the winter) Troubleshot DC electrical system. Found out DC converter was not applying charge to battery. So, we called the Dealer. No one there could tell us where to find the DC converter, or if there were any other fuses we could check, they kept telling us they were in the fuse box. We told them we weren't getting DC power to the fuse box. They insist that there are no other fuse locations. They said it sounded like the converter had failed, and to bring it in for replacement since it was under warranty. They had a 2 week wait for an appointment, so we took the first available appointment.

We took it in on Saturday, for our Tuesday morning appointment. When we dropped it off, we looked at different leveler. We weren't too sure about the one that she showed us, so we told her we would have to think about it, and we would let her know on Monday, when they were open next. We asked them to do the following work:

1. AC Converter- since they advised us to get it replaced.
2. Check the outside water connection.
3. Left rear slide out, lower corner cover outside screw was missing- disappeared on our first trip (the ride home when we bought her)
4. Check Tee Fittings under sink to verify they don't need replacement due to the cross threading they did when they blew out the lines.
5. Retorque the wheels and check the tire pressures.
6. Check the front strut support pads, since they were bending.

They called us on Monday, and asked the levelers. we let them know we decided we did not want to purchase or install them. They talked to us about the support pads, and told us this was normal wear and tear and offered to bang them back into shape. We told them not to, since it would just weaken them more.

This is what they decided to do.
1- Replace 2 40amp fuses on the converter (the same fuses that they claimed didn't exist orginally) (they didn't charge us for the fuses, but they charged us 44.75 in labor.)
2- They tightened the outside water connection and decide to blame all hoses that we have connected as being bad. (They charged us 17.90 in labor)
3- replaced the missing screw (8.95 in labor)
4- Tee Fittings- They decided to just apply water and made sure they weren't leaking instead of actually inspecting the fitting like we requested.(8.95 labor)
5- Retourque wheels and check tire pressure. They did this right. (35.80 labor)
6- remember those levelers? They decided to charge us 8.95 in Labor, 15.22 in Shop Supplies, for the levelers that we didn't buy or have installed...

So, of course, we questioned the charges, but there was no one there that could talk to us about it, or show us where the magical 2- 40 amp fuses are, or answer our questions about our model. We were told to call back on Monday, when the Service Manager is in. And, did I mention that it is 90 mins without traffic to the dealership? So, of course, we paid it, and took Her home. We weren't going to just leave Her there.

So, are we off our rockers for being upset?

[clutch]

I would be upset too. It sounds like you have just been hosed.

[D and M On The Road]

I'd print out your post and either mail, fax or take it to the manager or owner of the dealership. It pretty much explains what you have been through.

[Dean A Van Peursem]

I agree with D & M. Take your doucmentation and review it with the owner. I suspect you will quickly find out whether you are dealing with an ethical dealer or not.

[exav8tr]

Carly, First, welcome to "THE BEST DARNED FORUM ON THE WWW". Next, it would help with answers if you stated the year and model number of your Mountaineer, that way you could get a better response. Now, having said that, if you are talking a NEW Mountaineer, I would be highly upset with the nit-noy charges. Second, If your dealer is a Keystone dealer I would be suspect of their maintenance department for not knowing the location of things and the fact that the converter had additional fuses. Third, I think I would have the dealer pressurize the water system to 80-100 psi and check for leaks before camping in it. Fourth, I always try and pick up my rig from a repair shop while the service manager is there, just in case. Lastly, what Dean said above is what I would do also. Hope this helps somewhat!!! And, again, Welcome to the forum.....

BTW: Don't know what you are talking about when you mention "leveler"..

[Fire5er]

Did you conduct a PDI before you took delivery and cut them a check for payment in full? If so did any of these issues show up during the PDI? If not then I would suspect their winterization, or lack there of for your water leaking issues.

[stiles watson]

Yes, I would say you got hosed if I understand the situation correctly. First, all your complaints should have been handled as warranty issues, i.e., the hose fitting, the converter, inspection of the plumbing for leaks, etc. Torquing the wheels isn't hard. It is about 10 minutes worth of work, certainly not $30+ labor. To charge for work not performed is theft.

You can buy a torque wrench for between $20 and $75 depending on where you buy (local auto parts or Sears) and torque them yourself. Any tire store would check your tire pressure at no charge. Find some other shop to work with.

[CarCar]

Thanks for all of the replies!

I guess I should have looked at my signature. I didn't realize I didn't have my info on it. '09 345DBQ Tow Vehicle- "the beast" '03 f350 with 18inch Lift kit.

We did buy it new last summer (July 08) from a Keystone authorized dealership. We completed the PDI then. We are still under warranty.

The torquing of the wheels is the hubby's get. I talked to him about it, he is going to buy his own torque wrench. He is a retired helicopter mechanic, so he knows how to use one. He admitted to just being lazy on that one. He is planning on doing it himself, instead of being charged that much.

When I referred to "levelers", I was using my husband's term. I thought he should call them large "level indicators". There is the one that is installed at the factory, but we were considering replacing it with a bigger one that is easier for him to see.

I was under the impression that this was, for the most part, warranty work and/or post-winterization, since they winterized it and we didn't have leaks before-hand. So, to get the bill was a bit shocking!

I am going to take your advice about printing out the post, and faxing it to the Service Manager.

I will keep you all posted!

[Bill-N-Donna]

I’ve never bought new myself but I would think that the labor should have been covered under the warrantee .

[dsprik]

Good luck, Carly! We are all behind you on this one. The MOC is here to help. This is the greatest RV support group in the world.

I totally agree with Dean, et al above.

[jackandh2o]

If it was me, being upset isn't the term I would be using.As said before I would contact the management at the dealership for further explanation.

At this point it doesn't sound like a dealer I would want to deal with if I was shopping.

Ray

[Art-n-Marge]

Like others have said, I think you should try your story with the owner/sales department. When the service dudes try and stick you, it's always worth a try the business end. Remember that the service end doesn't make money unless the sales dudes can keep their customer's happy. Give them the "I had to pay, because I had to play, and now we'd like a little rough justice, please."

You got didn't get charged for fuses because they are dirt cheap and they got you on the labor.

The hardware should have been placed for free and under some warranty.

You got gouged on the torquing because you used their labor. Make sure you buy a torgue wrench to support your torque requirement (probably around 100-120 lbs), then buy a socket and extension (or a long socket that fits) and keep these with your RV tool box. I check my torque before every trip - Rarely does it need tightening, but I didn't say never. I also check my truck torque too (required a different long socket).

By levelers, I think you meant stabilizers (the things in the corners of the rig to prevent excessive rocking). The pads will often bend out of shape especially when you extend them and the ground where they meet is NOT flat. Remember, these are only stabilizers so don't torque them too hard. Levelers are different in that they are VERY strong and are used to raise a rig to make the rig level because they are designed to support the weight of the rig. They often stabilize the rig as part of the way they operate.

Unfortunately, when a service person works on your rig warranty or not, someone must pay for their time. Dealers often eat the parts cost because they make up for it in service. That fee per hour does not all go to the repairman, the dealership gets their part. If that were the case, I would have gone into RV repair long ago.