water heater element - Montana Owners Club

happy campers · 04-21-2008, 02:43 AM

Please don't ask! I did some reading here a while back about replacing the heating element in the water heater, and where to purchase the elements besides the RV store, but I'm finding that the SEARCH function is not cooperating today. Also, it appears that a special socket is required to remove the element. Can anybody offer any helpful hints? Thanks

nailbender · 04-21-2008, 03:13 AM

I got a replacement heating element and socket from our local Ace Hardware store. They are probably also available at True Value stores. The socket is stamped metal, not like a regular socket, but works fine.

capn chris · 04-21-2008, 03:41 AM

Just checking...heating element or the anode?

happy campers · 04-21-2008, 04:02 AM

Heating element. I'm heading to our local Ace later today. Thanks for the replies.

sreigle · 04-21-2008, 07:07 AM

It surprises me that Ace would have a heating element for an RV water heater. It must be the same thing as used in a home water heater? What exactly would one ask for at Ace? I'd like to have that info at hand, if possible.

Thanks.

awaywego · 04-21-2008, 08:20 AM

Steve
I bought a new element at Lowe's for the rv.
The one in the rv is 750 watt and the one from Lowe's was 752 watt.
You just need to take the old one with you so you get the same size of the part that screws in. They have 2 or three sifferent sizes.
I also bought the wrench to remove the old one at Lowe's

HughM · 04-21-2008, 08:26 AM

I never would have thought of going to Lowes for a rv water heater element. Thanks for educating me on this one.
Hugh

sreigle · 04-21-2008, 02:57 PM

Thanks, Wayne. Like Hugh, I would not have thought of that. It's nice to know that option is there. Just in case. I don't suppose Lowe's and Home Depot have the anode rods, do they? I'm going to need a new one before too much longer.

happy campers · 04-21-2008, 03:53 PM

I went to Ace and they carry quite a few different elements. My old one was marked 120 volts and 1440 watts. They had one with the same rating, just a wee bit shorter. It was $9.99 + tax and it had a 1 yr warranty. The socket was $6.99 + tax. There were 2 types, and all of the one type had the same size hex nut. On the way home, I stopped at a home supply store and checked to see if they had any. I found one with the same rating, but made out of stainless steel with a 5 yr warranty; same price. Just a bit longer than the other 2. There seems to be plenty of room so it should fit. My project for tomorrow. The RV store wanted $22. Just check in the plumbing dept wherever you go. Hope this info helps somebody else in a similar situation. As info, the parts guy at our RV store advised me to use the original anode rod as long as possible, as the originals last longer than the replacements.

awaywego · 04-21-2008, 04:40 PM

Steve

Sorry but no anode rodes.

sreigle · 04-22-2008, 04:30 AM

Oh, well. I'll get one when we get close to a Camping World. This one should last that long.

Imp · 04-22-2008, 08:22 AM

Steve, we couldn't find the right size at Camping World. Had to go to the RV dealer. I haven't been back to CW lately, but when I checked 2 yrs ago, it was a short one. It was cheaper at the time to get the correct size at the dealership in the parts dept. About $12.

RRman · 04-22-2008, 02:55 PM

I was convinced my element was bad until I decided to check the breaker as the next diagnostic step after no hot water and to my surprise it was tripped. That fixed it!

sreigle · 04-23-2008, 06:10 AM

Myrna, thanks for the tip. I've seen those short ones and have read that they're not a good alternative even though they will fit. I don't recall the logic as to why they're not a good choice. We don't have an RV dealer around here, either, but when we get to Mesa Verde/Cortez/Durango area we'll likely find one. Thanks.

Dean A Van Peursem · 05-28-2008, 07:19 PM

I need to replace my Anode and checked at Lowes and they don't carry them. But I have a differnt little problem I think. Either on 110V or on Gas I don't get a full tank of hot water. Shower runs maybe a minute or two with good hot water and then goes cold. Thermostat? In the process i checked my Anbode and it needed repalcement and there was quite a bit if sediment in the bottom of the hot water tank. I cleaned that all out and now need a new anode before I check again.

RRman · 08-04-2008, 06:39 AM

Advice is desired!
I've been running on the electric element while camped for the last two months helping build a replacement church in Slidell LA.
Then I noticed the Hot water was cold. Meter showed 115 volts across the element terminals so I assumed it died (10 ohms resistance). Replaced with HD 1500 Watt/120 Volt element (same 10 ohms resistance). Still get 115 volts from either contact on element to ground. How can it not be heating??
Tank was full of water (running out of pressure relief valve and outlets) before I turned it back on. Breaker is good.
Could thermostat be bad, sending just enough power when I test, but not otherwise?

Thanks!

skypilot · 08-04-2008, 10:39 AM

You reset the circuit by pushing both buttons in (black rubber covered buttons located just below the heating element on my particular water heater). Both have to be pushed in to reset the circuit if it tripped.

drjjj · 08-04-2008, 01:08 PM

What is the procedure for replacing the hot water heater heating element?

SlickWillie · 08-04-2008, 06:34 PM

Quote:

quote:Originally posted by RRman

Advice is desired!
I've been running on the electric element while camped for the last two months helping build a replacement church in Slidell LA.
Then I noticed the Hot water was cold. Meter showed 115 volts across the element terminals so I assumed it died (10 ohms resistance). Replaced with HD 1500 Watt/120 Volt element (same 10 ohms resistance). Still get 115 volts from either contact on element to ground. How can it not be heating??
Tank was full of water (running out of pressure relief valve and outlets) before I turned it back on. Breaker is good.
Could thermostat be bad, sending just enough power when I test, but not otherwise?

Thanks!

Sounds like open circuit on the common side of the element (should the the white wire). Perhaps it is loose from the ground buss in the distribution panel.

RRman · 10-13-2008, 09:35 AM

Thanks,
Somehow, the white nuetral wire was bad, so I just ran a wire from the element to the frame and now the element works fine of course...
Based on trying to trace the neutral, my suspicion is its disconnected somewhere in the Suburban water heater...but how did that happen just sitting? Oh well, it works now!

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