Just not getting it <sigh>

[tweber502]

Edward, Did you not read what I already posted with the videos? In fact that was already pointed out. I also distinctly stated that I perform a pull test after hitching up. Sarcasm really isn't a helpful tool when trying to help someone learn an important step such as hitching up. If one would take the time to READ the post that contains links one would most likely NOT have to post such sarcastic comments. Most of that was already covered. The point of the video was to instruct the OP how to properly back into the pinbox. Tim

[JandC]

quote:Originally posted by Irlpguy

Well isn't that interesting, the first video does not even mention doing a pull test after hooking up and before pulling away..

The second video while it does mention the pull test as kind of an afterthought, imagine what happens when you do the pull test and your landing gear is well off the ground, where do you think the trailer is going to land if the pull test fails.

In neither video did the instructor inspect the hitch pin to be sure it was engaged, he relied on the fact the handle had retracted.

Having some downward pressure on the hitch when hooking up ensures the pin will be at it's proper depth and won't be sitting on the locking devise, 1/2" to 1" range works great.

There is more about what not to do in both of those video's than how it should be done properly.

Always:
Inspect the hitch locking devise from the rear to be sure it is in proper place and that the pin is indeed sitting down where it should be in the hitch.
Lift the landing gear so that it clears the ground only, not fully retracted, then with chokes in place do the pull test.

I will have to agree to disagree on some of your post. If you have the 6-point level up it is impossible to have your front legs "slightly" off the ground because when you retract them one comes up almost all the way prior to the other one leaving the ground.

After my visual inspection from the rear of the hitch to double check that the jaws have locked around the king pin, I hook up my cord and break-away cable (wheels still have loose chocks). Then I get back in my cab and lock my trailer brakes, put truck in drive and let it idle forward a little. If it is not locked it will start to pull out from under at that point. I don't push on the gas. I know some say to give it some gas for a pull test but why? If a 400hp diesel engine idling at 700-800 rpm isn't going to unhitch the trailer I would guess it is secure.

If it starts to come off the hitch it won't go more than an inch or two so it really doesn't matter if the front landing gear is down or not.

[waynemoore]

I agree, with the six point system the landing gear retracts all the way making the pull test dangerous. Another reason to have the Blue-Ox bed saver. If during the pull test the Hitch is not locked the RV will simply drop into the bed saver with no damage to eather the TV or the RV..

I have bought a new hetch in perpetration for my new F350 and you can be sure I will be getting a bed saver for the new hitch. JMHO.

[davidaf]

I do the pull test with the six point. I bring the first front leg up then once the second starts to come up I send the first one back down.

[Irlpguy]

I have six point level up and you will notice the driver side always comes up first, the weight is taken off the curb side but it does not start to actually retract until the other is at least half way up. That is when I lower the landing gear again and you will notice that the first one up is also the first one down.
It most certainly can be done, I do it all the time and if you use wheel blocks the unit will not move when you do the pull test anyway, so in theory you could just take the weight off the landing gear without fear of damaging the landing gear when you do the pull test.

When I put the padlock on the locking device prior to pulling out of a site there is no question in my mind the pin is secured in the hitch.

My point about the video was that one did not even suggest doing a pull test and neither suggested a visual inspection of the pin and latch, they are both lacking as far as a complete proper procedure. IMHO

[JandC]

I agree with your observation about the video Irlpguy. He doesn't do it exactly as I do nor in the order I do. Your point, and the one made by davidaf reference running the front legs up and down on the 6-point in order to have them positioned correctly prior to doing a pull test....well, the point is well taken.

For me the benefit of having the level-up system is convenience and ease of set up. Prior to me actually doing the pull test I have already locked my handle down on my Reese and visibly looked at the jaws secured around my king pin, so I am already 99.9% sure I am hitched. If for some reason something is broken on my hitch, or it does come out for some other reason I feel confident it will not travel more than a couple inches, therefore no need to spend all the time running front legs up and down. If I did the pull test like demonstrated in the video..."pushing on the gas pedal", and I was not secured, the trailer would probably slide completely off the hitch before I realized what had just happened.

I do this process the exact same way each and every time, which is the most important part possibly.

[grampachet]

As I've not been hitching the trailer up correctly, is it possible that I do have autoclosing jaws? I'll know tomorrow for sure.Unhitching. Set the trailer brakes....

You mean chock the wheels, right? It is not a good thing to pull the pin to use trailer brakes is it?

[Irlpguy]

JandC we are certainly not in disagreement on doing the same thing each time as your statement saws:

quote: I do this process the exact same way each and every time, which is the most important part possibly.

What process we employ may differ slightly but the important part is to do the same thing consistently using all the steps.

I personally feel putting the truck in gear and putting little or no pressure on the pin does not ensure something is not amiss, so I do apply the trailer brakes manually and attempt to pull forward. I don't worry about my unit falling onto the rails since it would fall about 1.5" onto my Montana spare tire mounted directly behind the hitch.

Hooking up and unhooking is "MY" job, I don't want help and don't want someone distracting me when I am doing this, I will gladly have a beer with the neighbor after I am done.

grampachet: Yes it is chock, or block. I think most if not all hitches have a self closing system, when the pin hits this release the jaws close or the bar locks behind the pin, the handle should then be in position to be able to lock it. On some models it is not necessary to actually pull the handle when hooking up, on those types you can back in, the jaws will be forced open and then close when the pin hits the release at the front of the hitch. My Reese has a single jaw that wraps around the pin, some have 2 jaws one on each side and some have a flat bar that locks behind the pin when closed.

From time to time I check my emergency breakaway to make sure it is working, I do not do that at the time I am hooking up, to me that is a separate procedure and I only do it when I am ready to head down the road.

We don't always do it, but it never hurts to chock/block the trailer wheels prior to unhooking, leave them in place and only remove them once you are all hooked up and ready to leave the site to move on.

As JandC stated, establish a procedure, do it the same way each time and without distraction, this way we are all unlikely to have problems.

[Phil805]

Peter, after two years of dealing with the same problem. Either very hard to close jaws when connecting or open jaws when disconnecting. I was told to set trailer wheel chocks, back up to set pressure on them and jaws will close or open with no problem. I now do this every time hooking up or unhooking with no problem. I'm longer that guy at the campground who can't unhook.

[paulinbaja]

My hitch closes with a slide bar so the jaw operation I won't discuss. But when ever I hitch I make sure to connect the 12v. electrical cord and I always hold the manual handle on the brake controller so the trailer brakes are set. I set the trailer level to be the same as the truck. When the pin hits lock release the bar slides and is locked in place.

[DQDick]

Unless the ground is perfectly level,I always retract the rear levelers at least 6" manually before I even hitch up to avoid damage to them. I would for sure lift them off the ground before I did a pull test.

[leemedic]

quote:Originally posted by waynemoore

Ok here is what I have to do when unhooking. Once the rig is in place I lower the landing gear to the ground and rase the rig till I see the pin box lift off the hitch. This is about a half inch. I then back the TV back towards the rig to remove the tension off of the pin. At this point I can pull the release handle to unhook the hitch. As for hooking up do much the same. Once in place lower the rig till the pin box just touches the plate and you will be able to close the jaws.

If I were you I would see if you can go to a dealer or find a very experienced RV owner and have them work with you. All you need is some positive experiences to gain confidence with this process.

Once you lower the pin box onto the plate, you need to get back into the tow vehicle, place it in reverse and back up until the jaws close. This is automatic.